MC-1 165’s seastar install hangup

[ttownthomas]

there is not enough room on the starboard side of the starboard drive. It's not even close. So consequently there is not enough room on the "outside side" of either drive. It only fits between them.

 

[GA_Boater]

To port?

And whats in the way to starboard? Anything moveable?

 

[ttownthomas]

Not really. The choices, as I see them, are to shim the transom assemblies so they line right up or use an inboard type cylinder mounted to something (like Ba125-7ATM).

The latter sounds easier. Was hoping for words of wisdom.

 

[GA_Boater]

Words of wisdom - You can't shim the transom assembly.

What does not really mean? All you need is a clear spot for the rod to extend.

 

[ttownthomas]

It’s possible I could make room by cutting the mounting loops off the starboard drive. But there is still not much space with the upper bellows there so I’m not sure it would clear.

 

[ttownthomas]

I spoke to Seastar. I'm now confident that the best plan is to go with an articulating ram. I'll post pictures once I'm done. This way I can transom mount the fixed end of the ram and the other end will mate up to the tie bar.

 

[ttownthomas]

Ok. Back to this project. Pictures attached.

I ditched the loop mounted seastar ram and went with a transom mounted one. The tie bar that came with the boat was heavy solid 3/4" steel bar. It had clevis ends. I assume at one point there were some sort of bushings inserted into the tiller arm holes but they are long gone so the clevis ends just rattled around.

I fabricated a new tie bar out of 3/4" tube.(1/16th thick. Is that strong enough?) . And put threaded tube ends on it (still need to weld it). Then re-used the "ear" off the original tie bar. The ends are currently taped in place and the ear is tack welded to fit everything up. Now I have to attach the fixed end of the ram to the transom. Is this as simple as Drill 4 holes in the transom (3 of the 4 holes have the plywood part behind them) through bolt them and seal them with 4200?