MERC, FORCE, MARINER ?? carb help

[pine island fred]

Working on a neighbors motor. A 40 TRACKER, has MERCURY written all over it. 1998 ELPT OE3233806. The idle circuit is clogged and inop. Very simple carb, a single barrel TILLOTSON, 854446, Also TC135A 736. Idle circuit consist of a small brass tube from the float bowl, thru the venturi. then turns a right angle with a port down to the idle mixture adjustment screw.
Cant take anything apart as all the holes where the machining was done are sealed with plugs pressed in place. If anyone has ever worked on these things, would a rebuilding kit include these new plugs? Can the copper tube running thru the venturi be removed? Thanks for your help. FRED

 

[Don S]

Re: MERC, FORCE, MARINER ?? carb help

I think your SN has to many 3's in it, OE3233806, if so, SN OE323806 is a Force outboard.

Will move this over to the Force & Chrysler forum for you.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: MERC, FORCE, MARINER ?? carb help

The rebuild kit will have the welch plugs.They are easy to remove/replace.
Try a spray cleaner.Any soaks will ruin the rubber in the carbs.
Some of thse have pressed in needle/seats.They can be a B to remove and replace .You might not need a rebuild just a clean.
DON"T remove the tube.You might end up buying a new carb.
Ethanol is a bummer.J

 

[sweezy722]

Re: MERC, FORCE, MARINER ?? carb help

Jerry - can you purchase and replace the press in seats and if so where at and how much?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: MERC, FORCE, MARINER ?? carb help

The pressed in needle valve seat can be drilled out.But I wouldn't try. You'll probably ruin it.I don't know where to buy them.I don't do that to a carb.
The welch plugs usually come with a rebild kit.
The main jet has small holes in the bottom of the tube.Make sure they are clear.J

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: MERC, FORCE, MARINER ?? carb help

Those press in seats usually don't go bad. When they do, you experience a flooding problem. If the carb is not flooding or overflowing when the engine runs, OR if it does not overflow when you squeeze the primer bulb hard, don't change the seat.

Don't buy a rebuild kit until you clean the carb. Use some WD 40 with the red tube in place to spray all orifices. (WD will usually remove all but the most stubborn varnish deposits) Do not use metal wire on the metering (sized) orifices below the large welsh plug. Remove the low speed needle and spray through the hole. Use a pipe cleaner and ream out the thin brass dip tube and the high speed jet. Do not remove the brass tube--it is usually a useless, unnecessary, wasted effort.

Replace the needle and start with it set 1 1/4 turns out. Then, under FAQs at the top of this page, read my post for synchronizing timing and carbs for multiple carb engines and use the technique for setting the low speed needle on your single carb engine.

Set the float level and drop. That's in the post too.

After all this, if you still have a carb problem--which I doubt--THEN buy a rebuild kit.

 

[pine island fred]

Re: MERC, FORCE, MARINER ?? carb help

Thanks for the heads up guys. Once I found out it was a FORCE, was simple to get a parts breakdown. Took it apart and was very clean. Popped out the welch plug and reinstalled with some sealer. Had to give up on it though. From idle to mid throttle, the motor would blow fuel out the carb. 2 cyl, single barrel. Would I be right in assuming some reed valves were not closing properly? Would be getting to deep for me to do as a favor. Told him he needs a real OB mechanic. regards FRED

 

[pine island fred]

Re: MERC, FORCE, MARINER ?? carb help

As FRANK suggested, dont buy a rebuilding kit unless you have to. Simple carb, nothing to replace unless you damage the bowl gasket. FRED

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: MERC, FORCE, MARINER ?? carb help

Blowing gas could be the reeds or the fuel pump.
Take it apart and look at the diaphram.J