- Joined
- Jul 18, 2011
- Messages
- 18,285
Well, my boat ran into some engine issues a couple of weeks ago. So, I thought that I would start a thread to get some input and ideas as to what to do about it.
A little background . . . The engine was only about 5 hours into the season this year, and last season, I did a valve job and replaced the exhaust manifolds and elbows avec OEM gaskets, etc.
July 7th we were out in the boat . . . cruised for a short while and then anchored for a few hours. I went to start the engine when we were ready to go back home and the engine would not turn over. I spent some time diagnosing it as battery and/or starter problems, then finally pulled the plugs a couple of days later. the entire port side of the engine had water in the cylinders. :facepalm: Salt water no less. The starboard side was fine.
Then I checked the oil and it was clear golden, but up about 1 quart. . . I dumped about 1 quart of oil down the carburator and spun it through the engine to get some oil into the cylinders, etc. Since then I have been dis-assembling the engine in my spare time to see the extent of the damage and determine the course of action. I was able to run a compression test, but I was not able to run a cylinder leak test as I cannot turn the engine with a breaker bar . . it comes to a hard stop just after # 1 TDC. When I ran the compression test, I was feeling a 'thumping' as the engine turned . . . so maybe a bent connecting rod or something. #1 is 100 psi, #4 is 115 psi, #7 is 130 psi some were 140 psi and a few were indeterminant as they still had a bunch of oil in the cylinders.
So, the port side cylinder head had a rusty valves all the way down. The starboard side cylinder head had rust on #4 valves only.
I believe the port side has bent connecting rods as those 4 cylinders do not seem to come up to the top of the block as the starboard side cylinders do. They all come up about 1/2" lower than normal. (so, now I am thinking 4 bent connecting rods)
All the gaskets looked fine as I took things apart, they are all new OEM/Marine from the valve job over the winter. So, I was thinking that maybe the intake manifold rusted out and sprung a leak and water got sucked into the engine, etc. I tested the water duct in the intake manifold and that seems to hold water fine and does not leak into the intake ports.
So, now I am thinking that maybe a cylinder wall ruptured, causing a plethera of water on the port side of the engine. the exhaust manifold on that side had a water mark at each cylinder port, so lots of water.
What is surprising is that the engine did not seem abnormal or anything like that while it was running
I plan on taking the engine out of the boat tonight, so I'll be able to examine the crankshaft, connecting rods, etc.
My thinking is a this point that the engine is a gonner and a new long block would be needed.
In weighing my options:
1) Remanufactured Long Block = $2,500 - $3,500 (7.4's have become rare as they are no longer in mass production)
2) New GM Marine Long Block = $5,000 - $6,000 (they still make 7.4's for marine replacement blocks, I guess)
I read too many horror stories about remanufactured engines being hit or miss as to their quality and longeveity. I am also thinking that amount of investment in the boat (1991 Formula) is not worth it.
.
3) I could just offer the boat as a salvage boat and take about 1/2 the $$$$ of an operational boat.
Thoughts, ideas?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts you may have . . I am trying to look at all the possible angles.
Meanwhile, I have a boat search trip planned to NY, NJ in search of the next boat
A little background . . . The engine was only about 5 hours into the season this year, and last season, I did a valve job and replaced the exhaust manifolds and elbows avec OEM gaskets, etc.
July 7th we were out in the boat . . . cruised for a short while and then anchored for a few hours. I went to start the engine when we were ready to go back home and the engine would not turn over. I spent some time diagnosing it as battery and/or starter problems, then finally pulled the plugs a couple of days later. the entire port side of the engine had water in the cylinders. :facepalm: Salt water no less. The starboard side was fine.
Then I checked the oil and it was clear golden, but up about 1 quart. . . I dumped about 1 quart of oil down the carburator and spun it through the engine to get some oil into the cylinders, etc. Since then I have been dis-assembling the engine in my spare time to see the extent of the damage and determine the course of action. I was able to run a compression test, but I was not able to run a cylinder leak test as I cannot turn the engine with a breaker bar . . it comes to a hard stop just after # 1 TDC. When I ran the compression test, I was feeling a 'thumping' as the engine turned . . . so maybe a bent connecting rod or something. #1 is 100 psi, #4 is 115 psi, #7 is 130 psi some were 140 psi and a few were indeterminant as they still had a bunch of oil in the cylinders.
So, the port side cylinder head had a rusty valves all the way down. The starboard side cylinder head had rust on #4 valves only.
I believe the port side has bent connecting rods as those 4 cylinders do not seem to come up to the top of the block as the starboard side cylinders do. They all come up about 1/2" lower than normal. (so, now I am thinking 4 bent connecting rods)
All the gaskets looked fine as I took things apart, they are all new OEM/Marine from the valve job over the winter. So, I was thinking that maybe the intake manifold rusted out and sprung a leak and water got sucked into the engine, etc. I tested the water duct in the intake manifold and that seems to hold water fine and does not leak into the intake ports.
So, now I am thinking that maybe a cylinder wall ruptured, causing a plethera of water on the port side of the engine. the exhaust manifold on that side had a water mark at each cylinder port, so lots of water.
What is surprising is that the engine did not seem abnormal or anything like that while it was running
I plan on taking the engine out of the boat tonight, so I'll be able to examine the crankshaft, connecting rods, etc.
My thinking is a this point that the engine is a gonner and a new long block would be needed.
In weighing my options:
1) Remanufactured Long Block = $2,500 - $3,500 (7.4's have become rare as they are no longer in mass production)
2) New GM Marine Long Block = $5,000 - $6,000 (they still make 7.4's for marine replacement blocks, I guess)
I read too many horror stories about remanufactured engines being hit or miss as to their quality and longeveity. I am also thinking that amount of investment in the boat (1991 Formula) is not worth it.
.
3) I could just offer the boat as a salvage boat and take about 1/2 the $$$$ of an operational boat.
Thoughts, ideas?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts you may have . . I am trying to look at all the possible angles.
Meanwhile, I have a boat search trip planned to NY, NJ in search of the next boat