Mercruiser 5.7 V8 removal

[Nunny22]

Hi all,

I'm about to undertake the removal of my 5.7 v8 mercruiser for inspection after it took water on.

I feel I have a pretty good clue on how to attack it, but wondered if anyone has ever done a step by step to make sure I don't miss anything.

Thanks in advance.

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard.

It looks like you haven't pulled the drain plug. You will be working underwater. Got scuba gear?

Remove the 2 rear mounting bolts, remove the 2 side motor mounts, disconnect the fuel line, hose from the outdrive, both shift and throttle cables, power steering pump (let it hang) and the big electrical, along with anything else connected to the motor. Yank away.

This in the Merc outboard section, so it will be moved to the M/C section.

 

[alldodge]

Disconnect the grounds on the rear of the block (both sides)

 

[Bt Doctur]

judging from the drive the main bellow was leaking and the bilge pump and batteries could not keep up with the flow

 

[Nunny22]

judging from the drive the main bellow was leaking and the bilge pump and batteries could not keep up with the flow

Yeah, we are not sure if the water came in from the engine bay to the drive, there was an issue with the main bung, it had been installed by a previous owner with ferrous screws, that had worn away and was leaking.

Are you clued up on drives?

Would you say that the drive is beyond repair?

Oil all inside looks totally fine with no signs of water ingress.

Tia

 

[Scott Danforth]

your input shaft needs replacing.

 

[alldodge]

The input shaft is hardened steel, I would think it could be cleaned up and reused if not pitted (unable to see shaft from pic). Seals and U joints need replacing

 

[Nunny22]

your input shaft needs replacing.

Do you think the seals on the end of the input shat, will have withstood the salt water?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Do you think the seals on the end of the input shat, will have withstood the salt water?

You will be replacing the seals with the input shaft

 

[achris]

With it being salt water, expect to be putting a speedi-sleeve on the seal surface of the gear end yoke. Toss the unis, get new ones, and soak the coupler-end yoke, the centre socket and the gear end yoke in a phosphoric based rust converter. Clean them off and then paint the exposed surfaces. Unless you do that, the corrosion will just continue...

Then you'll need to assemble it all and set the rolling torque on the bearing pack.

Chris......