Mercruiser shift cable adjustment questions

[Rob406]

Hey guys, just bought a new boat, it's a 91 Celebrity 190 bow rider, and the motor serial number is 0D705678, it's the 4.3L V6. I'm having a shift interruptor switch issue where the button is being pushed down when it shouldn't be. (Activated in neutral not allowing boat to start, also activated in drive and in reverse.) This is with boat on the trailer. I bought this boat knowing the issue but feel I got a good deal on it, plus I enjoy working on things, but a boat like this is new to me.

The previous owner said he just had the lower cable replaced along with the gimble bearing and some other parts that have skipped my mind. He did provide service records which are in my vehicle parked at my work across town right now. (Not very helpful I know, I will have them in hand tomorrow after work) Although I am not familiar with this power train yet, the lower cable does "appear" to be new. I found the ChrisA video online about how to adjust the cables and am going to attempt an adjustment. Also I watched the switch function while a helper was moving the throttle and it almost looks to me like the "V spring" (part number 24-862850) is weak, so I went ahead and ordered a new one. Although it is hard to tell what the spring is supposed to do, it is stretching away from its little retaining knobs when in use, looks to me like it is not as strong as it should be.

Along with the request for any insight from you guys, I do have a couple questions before tearing into it. First off, when I do the cable adjustments does the outdrive need to be trimmed up or down? Or does it matter? I am assuming even with the boat on a trailer that the button should not be pressed when in neutral or any in-gear position except for the momentary action of going into- or out of gear. Also i want to lubricate the linkages and moving parts that the cables tie into just to confirm that anything isnt sticky. What is the best lubricant to use? I was thinking a silicone spray grease. Last question, how much resistance should the lower cable have when pushing in on it. I think I read about this somewhere but can't find it anymore. Would this be a good indication of a bad cable? I know Ill have more questions as I tear into the project but will take it one step at a time for now.

Looking forward to your guys' responses, thanks in advance!

 

[Rick Stephens]

First thing to do is disconnect the lower shift cable at the engine end and cycle it into and out of gear. It helps to have someone helping you by turning the prop at the same time to let the dogs engage. This test should be butter smooth and easy to perform. If the lower shift cable is sticky, or the shifter assembly in the lower is sticky, you will feel that and know the issue is not your interrupt.

I suspect your lower shift cable is the problem. I had an outdrive once that in use the shifting would get stiffer and stiffer and start activating the interrupt. So I know that can happen. Yes, go through the adjustment process after checking that everything is smooth, but I'll bet you have something sticky, most likely the lower cable. Check to make sure it is routed properly and not pinching, bent too tight around a corner or melting in high heat area.

 

[Rob406]

Thanks for the fast response. Just to clarify what you are saying - the assembly is supposed to operate just as smooth with the lower cable connected as it does when it is disconnected? In other words the lower cable should have zero resistance?

Edit - Ok I think I read your response wrong. So if I understand you correctly you are saying to shift the outdrive in and out of gear using the lower cable by hand, correct?

 

[Bt Doctur]

With grease on your thumb and index finger so to speak.

 

[Bt Doctur]

The switch should never activate on land, period.

 

[Rob406]

Thanks for the responses. Ok So I've ordered a new lower cable kit and am pretty confident in the install. One question - when I remove the drive is there a gasket that I need to replace upon reinstall? After placing my order it looks like some cable kits come with a drive gasket and some don't.

 

[Bt Doctur]

obtain a old control cable , not a lower shift cable.you will use the solid core for the install also, you`ll need it . Most quality kit include a mounting gasket

 

[Rob406]

Ok so just a quick update, I've got my lower shift cable installed, along with a new gasket set and upon disassembly found my shift cable bellows was torn so I replaced that too. Also replaced the "V" spring on the interruptor switch. It seemed to pass the static shift test so I am happy.

One question I do have, the previous owner made brief mention of "over trimming" the drive, in other words he was saying you want to be careful not to trim it too high to a point where it can stretch the cables or something to that effect. I'm new to outdrives and power trim, so is this true? I'm scared to trim my motor all the way up. This is on a trailer by the way and I would be using the Trailer button on my control lever. Not sure if I understood the PO correctly. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Can you move the black plastic piece of the shift cable with 2 greased fingers?
There is a "trim limit switch" that when adjusted correctly limits the upward travel. I think its about 22 inches from pin to pin
The pin the rams go on front and rear. From there you need to use the trailer button to raise it further usually with the engine off.
If the drive goes up al; the way with the trim button, the limit switch has been by-passed

 

[Rob406]

When i installed the core you could definitely move it with "two greased fingers" as you say, but going from memory, after installing the cable end and of course lining up the shift linkages on the transom side it seemed to get a bit firmer. How much exactly I can't say. After going through the adjustment procedure it engaged forward, neutral and reverse as it should (using the remote control lever and having a helper spin the prop) and without hanging up on the on the interrupt button as it did before. Also the existing cable which i removed was greased up real good which i read was incorrect and will activate the interrupt switch.

So back to the trim question, the "up" button only lifts the drive a small amount so it definitely is not bypassed. Using the trailer button allows me to raise the drive more but scared to just bury it till it stops. So are you saying the maximum safe distance of travel is 22 inches pin to pin? Just want to know if it's safe to hold the trailer button till she groans or is there something else I should be looking for, hard to see what the drive is doing from the helm. Thanks in advance

 

[harringtondav]

The trim limit switch is adjustable, but as Bt Doctur says the limit switch should stop the 'UP' function at 21-1/4" distance between the trim cylinder pins, per manual. This keeps the outdrive snuggled between the two supporting arms on the gimbal ring while under power. It's OK to trailer the outdrive up to full up when the trim cylinders stall, or even a little lower when you are pushing onto a beach with VERY LOW power, DEAD AHEAD. You'll hear your U joints rattle and complain if you overdo this. All three bellows and the shift cable are designed for this.

 

[Rob406]

Ok so just to make sure I understand correctly. I am referring to trimming the drive on land when the boat is on a trailer. It is ok to use the Trailer button and allow the trim to raise All The Way until it won't go any higher? This will not compromise my cables or bellows?

 

[TurtleTamer]

It's safe; just don't run the engine that way.

 

[Rob406]

Thank you. One last question for now, i know running the engine on muffs in the driveway is not a good practice but for interrupt switch/lower cable test purposes would it be a good idea to run the engine on muffs and also test out forward, neutral and reverse...briefly? I know the true test is "in the water under a load"....besides for the static test with motor off my thoughts would be the next step is with motor running/on muffs. thoughts???

Thanks to all who have offered advice and insight in this thread, your guys' help is much appreciated

 

[AnthraxBird]

The switch won’t work when the boat is out of the water. It’s fine to run it and shift between gears with muffs on, though. Be sure to give it a few seconds for the prop to stop spinning before you go from Forward to Reverse.

 

[Rob406]

Thanks Ill give it a shot.

Although i think i have my install and adjustment procedure correct, BT Doctor's greased finger analogy has me worried (no pun intended) even with the new cable there IS a slight amount of friction. Hard to say how much other than it is definitely more than with the cable connected to nothing on either end. Maybe 3 or 4 fingers? This is with it connected at the drive end and disconnected at the motor end. Tech support from the company i purchased the cable from confirmed there would be Some friction and that i was probably OK if the routing and the adjustment procedure was correct. As mentioned before the interrupt switch is no longer being activated in neutral and in gear which was my initial problem in my first post - which leads me to believe i am OK. Does it sound like I should just buck up and haul it out to the lake? Trying to avoid embarrassment if at all possible!