Hello,
I have 2007 Mariah SX19 with a 4.3 i/o.The boat has sat for two years in dry storage. My trim pump had started to leak so I replaced the reservoir and seal. I also drained the fluid as best I could after replacing it by cycling up/down and disconnecting at the cylinders until the fluid appeared clean. Anyway, I took the rear seat out, sundeck, etc., so I would have room to work on the pump. As I had everything out, I decided to do a couple things. I added a blue sea systems add a battery kit (https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems---add-a-battery-dual-circuit-system--8646275) as well as a Blue Sea Fuse block. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5026/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover.
Everything used to be connected to the single battery, including the trim pump. That was connected directly to the battery terminals. The trim pump is now connected to the fuse block, which is connected to the house battery. The trim pump is an SAE J1171. It has a 20 amp inline fuse in the positive line. I have to put a blade fuse the in fuse block, so I put a 20 amp fuse in there. It popped the fuse the fist time I tried to use the pump. So I put a 30 amp fuse in as that is the max per circuit based on the Blue Sea fuse block information I had. I popped two more of the 30 amp fuses as I was trying to get the fluid flushed. It seemed like after the fluid got flushed out/air removed, but I was being very careful as it "seemed" like it was popping the fuses at the top or bottom of the range.
I am pretty confused here and am not an electrical guru. The inline 20 amp fuse is literally 6 inches away from the 30 amps that were blowing out, yet that inline 20amp is still fine. I have some extra fuses for on the water, but I would rather figure out what is going on prior to using the boat. I am not sure how to go about testing this entire circuit and could use some advice. I thought about hooking it back up to the battery again, but that doesn't seem right either. I've got a nice multi-meter, etc. just need some guidance as to how to check each piece out like the switch, relay, pump, etc.
Sorry for the long post, but wanted to make sure there was enough detail as I know a lot of changes were done at once. All the other electrical things on the boat work fine, I've had it running at temp on the muffs a few times, etc., so I'm pretty sure everything is wired up correctly.
I have 2007 Mariah SX19 with a 4.3 i/o.The boat has sat for two years in dry storage. My trim pump had started to leak so I replaced the reservoir and seal. I also drained the fluid as best I could after replacing it by cycling up/down and disconnecting at the cylinders until the fluid appeared clean. Anyway, I took the rear seat out, sundeck, etc., so I would have room to work on the pump. As I had everything out, I decided to do a couple things. I added a blue sea systems add a battery kit (https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems---add-a-battery-dual-circuit-system--8646275) as well as a Blue Sea Fuse block. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5026/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover.
Everything used to be connected to the single battery, including the trim pump. That was connected directly to the battery terminals. The trim pump is now connected to the fuse block, which is connected to the house battery. The trim pump is an SAE J1171. It has a 20 amp inline fuse in the positive line. I have to put a blade fuse the in fuse block, so I put a 20 amp fuse in there. It popped the fuse the fist time I tried to use the pump. So I put a 30 amp fuse in as that is the max per circuit based on the Blue Sea fuse block information I had. I popped two more of the 30 amp fuses as I was trying to get the fluid flushed. It seemed like after the fluid got flushed out/air removed, but I was being very careful as it "seemed" like it was popping the fuses at the top or bottom of the range.
I am pretty confused here and am not an electrical guru. The inline 20 amp fuse is literally 6 inches away from the 30 amps that were blowing out, yet that inline 20amp is still fine. I have some extra fuses for on the water, but I would rather figure out what is going on prior to using the boat. I am not sure how to go about testing this entire circuit and could use some advice. I thought about hooking it back up to the battery again, but that doesn't seem right either. I've got a nice multi-meter, etc. just need some guidance as to how to check each piece out like the switch, relay, pump, etc.
Sorry for the long post, but wanted to make sure there was enough detail as I know a lot of changes were done at once. All the other electrical things on the boat work fine, I've had it running at temp on the muffs a few times, etc., so I'm pretty sure everything is wired up correctly.
