Metal on metal engine sound at higher RPM

clawless1

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Jul 1, 2013
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Hi Everyone,

I put a new motor in my boat this year, after doing it last year and having that one lose oil pressure by the end of the season.
It’s a 1983 mercruiser mak IV 454, 4 bolt main (370 cyclone) engine with a TR drive and BW transmission. Its stock, thunderbolt iV ignition and has an custom built 850 quadrajet
This engine runs great and has good oil pressure however I get this high pitched metal on metal sound once its warm, under load and above ~3500 rpm. It starts fine, we idle out of the no wake zone, about 10 min, then bring it up on plane, going over 3500 RPM, all is fine, then after about 1 to 2 min, I start hearing this metal on metal sound that is random, it does not follow the RPMs or seem to have any bearing on performance, if I bring it down under 3500, say 3200 it seems to go away or only happens every once in a while, if I push it a little harder, it does occour a little more frequently but not a lot. I don’t want to push this new engine over 4000 yet.
The sounds seems to be coming from the starter side toward the rear of the engine (2,4,6,8 cyl side) I pulled the starter thinking the bendix was hitting the flywheel and changed starters, no change and good clearance.
I pulled the plugs today, they only have a few hours on them but the back (cyl 8) plug was a little blue on the base ring and elecrode looked a little more heated than the others. The rest have a black base ring and the electrodes looked about the same. Base timing is 10 deg at 850RPM per the book.
Here are pics of the plugs and I was able to capture the sound on this video. There are 2 pops at 57 seconds that are loud and a few more quicker together but quieter at 59 seconds. This was at about 3700 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOl4U0q98Wo&t=10s
Differences from last year: new distributer with an updated pickup, old one had the original pickup, a water pump pulley from a 350 (bigger diameter, temp on the gauge is normal, but goes up slightly once on plane) ran it with the carb and had the noise, then rebuilt it, no change. There is a slight rise and fall of RPM at idle but I have not readjusted the idle air screws yet. It was worse before I rebuilt the carb.
I also tried squirting water on the intake to see if there was a leaking intake gasket.

Thoughts on the sound and a cause?
 

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Bondo

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Ayuh,..... The plugs look lean, so I'll go with detonation,.....

Richen the fuel at higher rpms,....
 

alldodge

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Agree, your running lean and the motor won't last long doing that. Need more fuel, get some larger main jets for the carb
 

Lightwin 3

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May 18, 2010
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I agree, lean casuing detonation (pinging).

You stated you changed the water pump pulley to a larger diameter one. That effectively turns the water pump slower which equals less water flow.
 

clawless1

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Thank you, I was thinking detonation as well, which leads to another question.

This carb ran a previous motor for 120+ hours no issue, the motor last year, 20+ hours, both had oil related failures. I have no issue rejetting but my concern is what’s changed? Why would this one run lean? It seems to be a newer block than the previous 2 engines. I rebuilt the carb, it seemed OK inside though, no gunk or plugged up areas. Could it have been borderline before and for whatever reason just over on this one? I have 73 jets in it now – start with 75? I can go more aggressive on the secondary metering rods as well.

So this may be a dumb question but it is a change - I was running the original 1983 distro pickup last year and the new distro has the updated pickup. I have not checked total advance yet but that pickup wouldn’t somehow change/add to the timing, would it?

Agreed on the water pump pulley, however my temp is right around 140/145 on the gauge, could that make that much a difference? It does seem that the 2-8 cyl side is running hotter that the other side, I have no comparison from last year.

Here are a few plugs form the other cylinders, do they look lean as well?
other_plug.jpgother_plug1.jpg
 

alldodge

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Will say I'm making the thought from the plugs, I cannot here any metal to metal or popping. In previous post I mentioned main jets but was meaning secondary.

Plugs need to spend more time in the motor before being able to read them, and if this is a new rebuild might want to let the rings given some time to seat in before higher rpms.

This being a inboard, the noise might also be coming from the transmission or TR drive. Have you checked the trans fluid and if so did you check it as required?

Start motor and run at 1500 rpm for 2 minutes. Stop motor and immediately check oil level and make sure dip stick is inserted all the way in. If fluid needs to be added, the 2 minute run needs to be repeated
 

clawless1

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Agreed on the rings and the plugs, but at this point I am kinda afraid to run it.

I borescoped the bell housing wondering if there was something in there, all looks good from what I can see.

I will recheck the transmission. I did that process then marked a cold line awhile back, fluid was good this year.

I am not counting anything out except for the starter and that does remind me, I did change the ujoints in the drive, no issues with the change.

The sound seems distinct on the 2-8 cyl side, in the back. I also changed the flapper on that side, it was good.

I'm going to change the water pump pulley back and probably the pickup, install new plugs and take a run with a stethoscope and temp gun and see if I can narrow it down this weekend.

With all the issues the least 2 season, this is turning something I love in to a stressful heartbreak :blue:
 

Rick Stephens

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I'd be thinking it better to run rich than lean while I did testing. You might just bump up more than you think you need.

Also, since you did some disty changes, borrow or buy a digital advance timing light and check to make sure it is actually running the advance you expect. Each type of module has a specific published advance curve, checking it is fairly easy.
 

scoflaw

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Jun 2, 2010
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Borescope the tops of your pistons, that's where the damage begins. You will usually see aluminum being transferred to the plug as well. Your plug looks fine for being new. Doesn't sound like it to me either, sounds like a loose piece of something light and tinny.
 

clawless1

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Well, ordered a digital advance timing light and found the advance curve. Checked the timing before I touched anything...it was at 41 deg at 3800 (all in at ~3750) should be 34, so it was detonation. I adjusted it for total timing and all is good now. Runs great and no more sound.

Now hopefully I didn't do any damage to the pistons....


Thank you all!
 

Bondo

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so it was detonation. I adjusted it for total timing and all is good now. Runs great and no more sound.

Ayuh,...... A compression test might give ya some hints,.....

Motors can survive abit of detonation, but unchecked is absolutely disaster,....
 
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