Well as you guys may know I have been having some problems with my new engine. At first I was just having a problem with bogging at over 4K RPM.
Then I was having a problem where only sometimes it would bogg at 3K RPM and not want to go over 3K RPM and it would backfire.
These problems were intermittent and when I would do something to the engine it would seem to work but then would start happening again.
I pumped all of the fuel out, cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel line and fuel tank vent hose, cleaned the carb and set the floats where they should be, tuned up the dist with new points, condenser and cap, put in a new coil, checked and rechecked the fuel system.
Then the past 3 or 4 times I took the boat out I thought I had it fixed.
Today I had took a buddy of mine out with me. He is an electrician for Pepsi and works on cars sometimes.
Well we go out and it starts bogging and then it started the backfirng and not wanting to go over 3K RPM.
I had talked to my friend before about testing the resistor wire that goes to the coil so he knew about it. I told him how I had to replace a coil that wasn't that old. He had read in my Seloc manual where it describes the operation and wiring of the coil and resistor.
Well we were cruising at about 3K RPM for about 20 mins and he went and felt the resistor wire and it was too hot to touch and was limp. It should cool down when higher RPM which delivers more current. Then It started another intermittent problem I have been having. Sometimes if I am at 3 K RPM or higher and I push the trim the engine will stumble and start to die.
I ran the boat about another 2 hours trying to see if it would stop doing it. Then we did a test. I hooked a wire from the battery + to the coil +. As soon as I hooked this wire up the boat ran great. No backfiring, no bogging, nothing. Just ran great. Could even push the trim without any engine stumbling. It did so the whole way (45 mins) back to the dock (was starting to rain).
When we got to the dock I unhooked the wire and when I did the engine shut off. I tried to start it again and it would crank but not start. So I must have burned the resistor wire that is supposed to supply V to the coil.
But this must be the problem. The resistor wire is heating up at idle and sometimes not cooling down enough to allow enough V to the coil. Which is also why when I push the trim the engine would stumble because it was already not getting enough V.
So I went to an auto parts store and ordered the correct ballast resistor that goes to the Accell coil I have and will unhook the resistor wire tom and run my own wire and hook the ballast resistor up. I researched getting an OEM coil but it doesn't say what the resistance range should be so if I have to replace the resistance wire I would not know what to replace it with.
So I know that today putting 12V to the coil made all of the problems stop instantly. So I'm hoping that tom when I hook the ballast resistor up with a new wire it will run like it did today.
It makes sense that a resistor wire that is 21 years old will loose some of its properties and not work right or not heat up and cool down cool down right. And for all I know someone has cut the wire before which is not supposed to be done.
What do you guys think?
Then I was having a problem where only sometimes it would bogg at 3K RPM and not want to go over 3K RPM and it would backfire.
These problems were intermittent and when I would do something to the engine it would seem to work but then would start happening again.
I pumped all of the fuel out, cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel line and fuel tank vent hose, cleaned the carb and set the floats where they should be, tuned up the dist with new points, condenser and cap, put in a new coil, checked and rechecked the fuel system.
Then the past 3 or 4 times I took the boat out I thought I had it fixed.
Today I had took a buddy of mine out with me. He is an electrician for Pepsi and works on cars sometimes.
Well we go out and it starts bogging and then it started the backfirng and not wanting to go over 3K RPM.
I had talked to my friend before about testing the resistor wire that goes to the coil so he knew about it. I told him how I had to replace a coil that wasn't that old. He had read in my Seloc manual where it describes the operation and wiring of the coil and resistor.
Well we were cruising at about 3K RPM for about 20 mins and he went and felt the resistor wire and it was too hot to touch and was limp. It should cool down when higher RPM which delivers more current. Then It started another intermittent problem I have been having. Sometimes if I am at 3 K RPM or higher and I push the trim the engine will stumble and start to die.
I ran the boat about another 2 hours trying to see if it would stop doing it. Then we did a test. I hooked a wire from the battery + to the coil +. As soon as I hooked this wire up the boat ran great. No backfiring, no bogging, nothing. Just ran great. Could even push the trim without any engine stumbling. It did so the whole way (45 mins) back to the dock (was starting to rain).
When we got to the dock I unhooked the wire and when I did the engine shut off. I tried to start it again and it would crank but not start. So I must have burned the resistor wire that is supposed to supply V to the coil.
But this must be the problem. The resistor wire is heating up at idle and sometimes not cooling down enough to allow enough V to the coil. Which is also why when I push the trim the engine would stumble because it was already not getting enough V.
So I went to an auto parts store and ordered the correct ballast resistor that goes to the Accell coil I have and will unhook the resistor wire tom and run my own wire and hook the ballast resistor up. I researched getting an OEM coil but it doesn't say what the resistance range should be so if I have to replace the resistance wire I would not know what to replace it with.
So I know that today putting 12V to the coil made all of the problems stop instantly. So I'm hoping that tom when I hook the ballast resistor up with a new wire it will run like it did today.
It makes sense that a resistor wire that is 21 years old will loose some of its properties and not work right or not heat up and cool down cool down right. And for all I know someone has cut the wire before which is not supposed to be done.
What do you guys think?
