Much bigger project than I thought

[RJ in Utah]

Good evening, All
Well, my project boat has now became a much larger project than I expected.

First, I'm a newbie at boats. That said, I successfully raced a SBC in a 71 Vega back in the day. Mechanical work and engine rebuilding doesn't scare me. Also, I grew up on a small farm so I'll tackle anything. My policy is look at it a dozen different ways, measure and draw. I think this will stand me in good stead working on this.I'm also not shy about doing fiberglass though it's been years...

I've discovered the reason the boat was sidelined is there is a couple extra openings in the block. When I started looking, it only appeared it needed some decking and foam due to a couple soft spots and water logged foam. Well, it's way more than that as the stringers need to be replaced also.

So, Does anyone know a site that has the specs and the design for the stringers and transom? 1977 19 foot Fibreform Deep V Open Bow inboard

 

[MTboatguy]

You need to post this in the restoration section, lots of very knowledgeable people in that section that will be able to help you get her back in shape.

 

[tpenfield]

Yes, have the Moderators move this thread over to the restoration section. Stuff like this happens all the time. There are dozens of threads that you can look through to learn how to rebuild your boat better than new.

Post lots of pictures so we can see what you are seeing.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you will learn from this forum, that the last thing to rot is the floor. as you found, transoms and stringers long rotted prior to the floor being soft

start reading the stickies in the restoration forum

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

start with link 14 and go thru every video, picture, etc. by the end you will be well on your way.

 

[southkogs]

Moved ya' into restorations ... welcome aboard.

You may also want to mention what driveline you have in it (OMC / Mercruiser / Inboard / Outboard, etc.). Sometimes you come up on something like this and you wanna' do a gut check on why you're gonna' dive all the way into a restoration. They can be very rewarding. And they can be VERY expensive.

 

[RJ in Utah]

Thanks, southkogs, for moving me over to the right place. I was trying to figure that out

Okay, I've done some digging, the registration for the boat is wrong, it's listed as an 87 but the HIN says it's a 78. I'll work on getting that corrected BUT that won't magically fix the rest of the problems.

So, I incorrectly stated it's a 77 Fiberform, (never trust your memory) it's registered as 1987 (78?) Fiberform model 1880 Bowrider. Since the year is off, I kinda question the rest. However, It has a Volvo-Penta AQ255B outdrive with a 1978 Chevy 350 power plant. As I mention, the block is cracked externally. I'll pulled it down, insides are good so I can transplant them to the 1984 donor 350 block.

Looks like I have a bucketful of work ahead. I'll review the above suggested links and then dig in....

 

[sheboyganjohn]

I would do some research on that drive in the I/O section of the forum. Some drive models are as rare as hens teeth, making the parts even rarer. Outside of a few marine parts (carb, starter etc), a GM 350 is a GM 350.

 

[kcassells]

pics

 

[ACon977]

Sounds like a fun project! Following along.

I'll second KC with the pics!

 

[Woodonglass]

You are AT the most knowledgeable forum for boat restoration. There are NO MFG diagrams of your boats SKELETON. When you tear her apart, take pics and measurements of EVERYTHING in every direction. Then put her back the way she was. Our members can guide you on technique and methodology.

 

[CrazyFinn]

When you tear her apart, take pics and measurements of EVERYTHING in every direction.

And then post the pics here so we can help you figure it out.

Then put her back the way she was. Our members can guide you on technique and methodology.

Or put her back better than she was - if you do it right, you can make it better than new.

The advice you've gotten here is good - read through a bunch of threads - many people here have already done complete restorations like what you're faced with, some are in the middle of one now. Get some pics up as soon as you can so we can see what you're dealing with!

 

[RJ in Utah]

Here's a few pic to start with. I'm having to do the work outside as I don't have a shop but come assembly time, there will be extra cleaning and tarps to keep things clean. I had stripped the foam out of the starboard side when I discovered the rotted stringer. There's 2 on each side. I managed to salvage the second one in one piece so there's a template for that. I pulled the gas tank last night.

There's a picture of the stern, the boat has the trim around it which appears to be what holds the top and the hull together. I'll do some more investigation on that this weekend.

Umm, okay, I'll have to upload those pictures after I figure out how to shrink them a bunch

 

[kcassells]

Take a phone pic, em to yourself. Automatically downsizes. Save on your comp. then copy paste.

 

[RJ in Utah]

Thanks for the tip! I did not know that.

It's a good day, I've learned something new

 

[oldrem]

If you're using a PC, my favorite is to use irfanview to resize. It's a free download and super easy to use. Open a photo, select resize, set it for 800x600, name your file and post it

 

[Scott Danforth]

Chevy 350 power plant. As I mention, the block is cracked externally. I'll pulled it down, insides are good so I can transplant them to the 1984 donor 350 block.

no. you can use the crank and rods if you have them reconditioned, however you cant re-use pistons and rings or bearings. however you can have the 1984 block rebuilt. new full rotating assemblies are less expensive than re-conditioning your existing parts.

talk to your local automotive machine shop.

 

[mickyryan]

i have found "locally" that it is cheaper to buy a long block then try to rebuild , crazy i know but its true.