my evenrude 10hp

[golly]

there is a plug hole in the side of the engine, is this to charge the battrey, and if so can we still get one ie are they still for sale?

 

[golly]

No Title

this one, sod no pic

 

[racerone]

That is for " AC lighting " to run boat lights.

 

[Tim Frank]

and if so can we still get one ie are they still for sale?

Is "what" still for sale?

 

[golly]

the plug that goes into the hole

 

[Tim Frank]

Without a model number or year, it would just be a guess.

 

[F_R]

There is such a thing as a battery charge kit to convert that AC lighting to battery charging. Basically a rectifier. We need that model number.

EDIT: "Most" of those AC lighting motors were made for foreign (outside U.S.) markets. Is yours one of those?

 

[golly]

There is such a thing as a battery charge kit to convert that AC lighting to battery charging. Basically a rectifier. We need that model number.

EDIT: "Most" of those AC lighting motors were made for foreign (outside U.S.) markets. Is yours one of those?

im in the uk but it says BE10BALCCD and R 1886967 USA

 

[Vic.S]

So its a Belgium made 1988, rope start, longshaft 9.9hp with an AC lighting coil.
Note that that the socket has three wires and was intended for lights wired in a series parallel configuration which is described in the owners manual

However there is, or at least was, a battery charging kit that plugged into the socket.

You will find it in the accessories section of the BRP parts catalog as part number 0582105 You will also find a breakdown of the kit into its component parts
http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E...b-0c4def8640e7

I suggest you contact Oakley Marine in Brighton http://www.outboards-direct.co.uk/ to see if the kit is still avaialble and if so how much it will cost.

( It should avaialble. MRSP in USA ia $91)

Probably a less expensive option is to simply buy the 4 wire rectifier, part number 0581778 and associated terminal strip fit it directly onto the power head and wire it up like it would be in an electric start engine but simply lead the DC cable out via a suitable grommet. This is how I would do it if possible and it is how my 6 hp Yachtwin is wired as standard.

There should also be a plug available that fits the socket should you wish to try some alternative. I dont know the part number but Oakley will no doubt be able to help.

Remember though an ordinary bridge rectifier is not suitable for the three wire output, You could if you are into electronics make up a ( 3 phase) rectifier with 6 suitable diodes.


BTW you should be able to find practically everything you will ever need to know about your engine in http://www.leeroysramblings.com/

 

[Vic.S]

The rectifier is the round thing in the centre of this picture. Its wiring, the stator coil output and the DC output are wired to the adjacent terminal strip

These diagrams show how lights could be wired to the AC lighting output and also the theoretical circuit of the four wire rectifier

 

[golly]

thank you very much very helpfull guys

 

[kodibass]

Vic.s not trying to high jack a thread but this thread made me think of a question and you seem to have the knowledge, Question is I was told that you will ruin the rectifier if running it while not hooked to a battery, does this apply to the smaller pull start motors like your very clean little gem? thanks

 

[kbait]

Hey kodibass.. The way I understand it, as long as you keep the battery cables from motor separated (so they can't arc when running), it's perfectly fine to run those motors w/o battery hooked up. In fact, they came from the factory with a rubber cap looped to the + cable to stick over the ring grommet at the end of the cable to isolate it.

 

[Vic.S]

Vic.s not trying to high jack a thread but this thread made me think of a question and you seem to have the knowledge, Question is I was told that you will ruin the rectifier if running it while not hooked to a battery, does this apply to the smaller pull start motors like your very clean little gem? thanks

AFAIK you can run without a battery hooked up..... but insulate the wires so that they do not short.
What you should avoid doing is disconnecting the battery while the engine is running. That can cause a voltage surge which may blow the diodes in the rectifier.

 

[kodibass]

, I remember seeing those rubber capper things on the end of the cables on a pull / electric start 15 hp awhile back, Good to know about not disconnecting while running, Just the kind of thing I would do. thanks guy's for helping me. I just got a 9.9 with the charge/rectifier set up. didn't want to mess it up right from the start.