Re: Need a fridge expert
I agree with tommays , on trying the defrost. I find it easier to locate the defrost timer, and manually 'trip' the timer into the defrost cycle. On most defrost timers, they have a screwdriver slot to manually turn on the defrost cycle. If the coils are frosted, several defrost cycles will usually get things working again (as long as the timer switch contacts are not defective). As the coils are defrosted, the water will flow down into a pan behind the front kick panel. This water evaporates when room air passes over the pan from a small fan.<br /><br />Defrost timers are easy to replace and cost approx. 25.00. The timer is a simple device that basically has 3 or 4 terminal connections. Most can be replaced by simply unplugging the wire harness.<br /><br />Here's the theory on why you need a defrost cycle. Every time the door is opened, warm moist air enters the box. This moisture laden air circulates past the cold frozen coils. This moisture condenses on those coils as frost. This layer of frost basically insulates the cold coils from the circulating air, raising the temperature inside the freezer compartment. The defrost timer has 2 main circuits. One circuit supplies 120v to the compressor for approx 23 hours, the other circuit goes to the defrost wires for 1 approx. 1 hour. Once a day, the compressor is electrically disconnected and the defrost wires are energized for 1 hour. The frost-ice is now melted into water which drains to an evaporation pan at floor level , where it evaporates. At the end of the defrost 'cycle', the timer disconnects the defrost wires and again powers the compressor. <br /><br />Shortly after the defrost cycle starts, you should see water flowing into the evaporation pan, as the frost is melted. Normally, the water flow will stop BEFORE the timer switches back to normal compressor 'run' mode. If there's still ice on the coils when it switches back, you'll still have a warm freezer. That is why I said earlier to manually do a couple of defrost cycles (and watch the water flow to the evaporation pan). If no water flows, you can assume 2 things. One is that the defrost timer contacts are burnt and not warming the defrost coils, second the coils are free of ice and the compressor is suspect. One last option is a defective door seal allowing warm air to enter the box. Of course opening the box 20,000 times a day could add to the problem too.<br /><br />While you're looking at the evaporation pan, have a peek at the lower coils for dust bunnies, and clean them out. Keeping these coils free of debris insures the efficiency of the refrigerator.<br /><br />BTW,I'm no expert and I don't play one on TV, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.
