Need help with a 1983, 280 Volvo Penta

BuddhaBelly

Recruit
Joined
Aug 5, 2015
Messages
5
I have been without a boat for too many years now. I bought a small 1983 18' Glasply with a 4 cylinder 280 Volvo Penta. I think it is the AQ145. I am looking for a good shop manual. When I go to raise the outdrive, the lock will not disengage. I need to stick a screw driver in to release it. The connection rod from the shift mechanism does move. A good manual would sure help. Anyone have a good idea where I can find one. Most of the manuals for sale will not let me look at it first. A lot of them are junk IMHO. Any ideas or suggestions on what might be the problem would be appreciated. This boat is a rebuild, so there are a few other issues I need to fix before it hits the open seas. I have the main engine running nicely, as well as the kicker motor. I am also having trouble finding out anything about this boat. It will not show up on any searches, even with the vin number. I will muddle my way through this restoration. But any help would be appreciated. It is just a runabout with no covered cabin. It does have a heater under the dash between the helm seat and the passenger seat which gets heat from the engine. Four back to back seats up front, with a seat on each side of the engine cover.
 
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Ghost21

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
33
Hey Buddha,

The pin generally gets pushed from the engine lift drive. I just finished repairing a friends as he bent the lift bar and broke the pin inside.. Don't do that its a pain in the ass.. Back to your issue. If you can push the pin down with a screw driver and the mechanism unlocks the drive that's a good. Can you lift the outdrive manually when you push that down ? IF so put it back down slowly until it clicks. Now you need someone in the boat to push the lift button and you at the back watching and slowly see if the engine lift drive is coming down to push on the top of the pin.. If you don't see it from underneath releasing that latch holding the horizontal bar stop and manually lift it out of the way with something " NOT your fingers" . Will it lift the outdrive?
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,148
Look at the end of the tilt rod.
It should have a flat end on it.
If it has the flat pusher.
Then the rod might be binding or needs adjusting.
 

BuddhaBelly

Recruit
Joined
Aug 5, 2015
Messages
5
Sorry I was not very clear at all last night. If I manually disengage the lock and lift the outdrive just enough by hand that the lock will not reengage, then the outdrive will raise like it should. I have seen on other peoples threads in here where people suggest just leaving it that way, but to tie a wire on it. then just pull on the wire to disengage it. This is not safe at all. When you are flying across the water in forward, you want that lock disengaged so that if you hit an under water object the outdrive can lift up with out tearing you transom off the boat. I feel it would be much safer to just totally disengage that lock so it will lift if you hit something. You just can not go very fast at all in reverse.......... I ran my motor today with a water hose hooked up to it. the engine got up to about 200-210 degrees, I shut the motor down at that point. Not enough water was flowing out the exhaust. I am going to change out the impeller and the thermostat and hope this fixes it. If that does not fix it, I will switch out the fresh water pump as well.......... I do have a question. Why does this cooling system only have a 4 lb cap on the fresh water side. That seems kind of low. The cap was leaking a little bit. I already bought another one. I almost think this is the wrong cap. Seems like it would be at least 12 lbs..... If anyone knows where to get a goo Shop Manual that would be so very helpful.
 
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jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,148
Buy VOLVO parts for the cooling system.
The cap is best from Volvo.
The sea water cap too.
The thermostat usually doesn't go bad.
There are 3 major things and 1 minor that can be bad.
The impeller, minor.
The pump housing.
The exhaust manifold.
The heat exchanger inside the "radiator".
The last 3 ain't cheap.
Most overheating is caused by the manifold(my opinion)

The tilt lock.
Pics of the end of the ram??
The springs in the lockdown if stretched can cause that problem.
Any corrosion or growth?

Post some pics of the lock and try to figure out if the manifold is flowing good water.
 

Chevyboi001

Cadet
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Messages
29
The 4lb cap is standard its what's in my Volvo. Far as your latch goes I can take some pictures of operation. Your trim/lift rod goes down and hits the rod that runs threw the 280 witch triggers the latch to disengage. Don't know if you can understand that. Also have you check the screen in the sea water cap while running water thru your 280. When first cranking my boat it took a while for the sea water pump to pick up the water.
 

Chevyboi001

Cadet
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Messages
29
Also just remembered it only should be latching in reverse. Normal unlatched im drive. Maybe you the throttle cable needs adjustment
 
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