Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

seattle scott

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It looks like Mallary part # 9-37000 or Sierra #18-7037 and NAPA is the same as Sierra, but some poster has said this kit didn't match up with the TC1A carb. Can anyone confirm the rebuild kit part number?

Also how do you remove the inlet needle seat. The book says just remove it, but it looks like it is pressed in.

Also the inlet needle valve end was shapped more like a banana than a needle, so I asume this was the cause for the gas dripping out the carb and why I could pump gas out the carb.
 

jason32038

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

If it's pressed in you have to thread a screw in it and pull it out. A sheet rock screw should do.
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Be real careful when you buy kits.See my last post.
Post some pics.Some seats(most) were pressed in,some were screwed in.
Pics of the needle too.
Always put in what were working on.Year,make,model,serial#.
 

seattle scott

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

carb compressed pic.jpgThe carbs in question are on a 135 hp 1977 chrysler model 1359HG. Regarding the valve seats, the guy at Mastertech Marine (mastertechmarine.com) says this before his Chrysler - Force carb rebuilt parts list:

IMPORTANT!!
IF YOUR CARB HAS PRESSED-IN SEATS, DO NOT REMOVE THEM! THEY ARE NOT REPLACEABLE AND NOT AVAILABLE ANY MORE!!

So what do I do about the inlet valve seat - photo attached - pen points to seat.
 

seattle scott

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

carb needle compressed.jpgcarb compressed pic.jpgHere is a pic of the inlet needle sitting next to the seat. Does the fact that there isn't a point on the needle mean it is completely worn down and if so doesn't the seat need to be replaced too?
 

wickware

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Is the seat all Brass? Is the seat too bad to lap it with a new needle to know they are matching? Please post Pic of the needle and a close Pic pointing straight down into seat (as well as your flash will let you that might show any damage). That carb has to be the same as Old Tecumseh mowers and Etc

Now That I See More Posted! My question now is would there normally be rubber in the seat or on the tip of the needle vs metal-to-metal? jow
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Usually the seat or the needle has the rubber.
Post a pick of the needle ON a ruler.
I think I see it on the carb but need to see it clearer.
I might have a straight one.
What condition is the seat in?PIC??
 

seattle scott

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

carb seat.jpgHere is pic looking down valve seat - does it need replacement?
 

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wickware

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Personally, I still question is it metal-to-metal if it is to stop fuel vs meter fuel as a carb adjustment screw?? Does a diagram of the carb or kit show there is no rubber in the seat or tip of the needle (please post or add links of carb diagram, kit or page in Clymer Manual if possible. Did you post any history other than the leaks (which I feel no rubber could cause)? It is also a puzzle if you feel the needle is banana bent due to only float pressure. jow
 

wickware

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Thinking about my 1970 35 HP Chrysler I c/n remember the needle and seat or have pics. BUT! All metal or rubber, I feel I remember pumping gas into the carb when priming w/o getting a drip afterward or before. This is back to my question about history. Without the priming pressure and the tank above the carb, I doubt the carb would receive fuel to drip w/o the engine running or you pumping. Unless you are in this TX heat w/o the tank vented. jow
 

seattle scott

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Ok guys I fess up. I was looking at the wrong end of the inlet needle, I was looking at the end that contacts the float flange. When I turn the needle around and get out a magnifying glass I see the other end of the needle has a rubber tip, shaped like a half sphere, not a point. Seeing that I put the needle in the seat and with light finger pressure held it seated "closed" and then tried to blow ( with my lungs) air in fuel inlet pipe. I could NOT get air past in the inlet needle. So my conclusion is that the needle and seat are fine but the floats were set too high so as not to close the inlet valve, causing fuel to drip out the carbs when the engine was running.

But now I need the gaskets to reinstall the carbs and might as well relace the needle ( or at least compare a new needle with the old) so I am back to what part # kit to get.
 

seattle scott

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Thanks Gerry. I see I can get the needle from Crowley.
 

wickware

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Thanks For Being Honest Seattle! Trying to help troubleshoot is fun and needed with the OLD MONSTERS. BUT You Tried Us! LOL jow
 

seattle scott

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

I am slinking away, but I will be back, since I can't figure out what the book is saying about how to measure for proper float height. I will statch my head and do a little seaching here before I "yell wolf" .

Again,, thanks all.
 

wickware

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

The basic rule is that the float is level with the bottom of the carb inverted to provide pressure on the needle to stop the fuel. From a glance in a Clymer manual I noticed a dropped measurement to allow the needle to open enough (I guess). The Bottom Line! Is closing IMO and the opening should be OK. This is not Rocket Science. LOL. jow
 

wickware

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Edit: The float is level with the top of the carb inverted. jow
 

Cyclone

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

It looks like Mallary part # 9-37000 or Sierra #18-7037 and NAPA is the same as Sierra, but some poster has said this kit didn't match up with the TC1A carb. Can anyone confirm the rebuild kit part number?

I just got a pair of 18-7037, they have the threaded seats, so they do not work for the TC carb.
 

seattle scott

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Re: Need Tillotson TC1A carb kit number

Yeh, I got the 18-7037 carb kit ( with the threaded inlet seats. I used the new needles and gaskets and adjusted the floats. No more gas dripping out the mouth of the carbs and the bulb firms up after a couple of squeezes. I checked the spark with an inline tester light and I am getting good spark all plugs but I still have a ton of exhaust smoke. I will check the compression next and then work through the problem that the battary is not getting a charge.
 
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