New boater. New to loading boat

[Maj92az]

I am not new to backing trailers up. But when it comes to boats..i am learning all very quickly. Two weeks ago I diddnt know what engine trim was. Lol

I've only taken my boat out 3 times so far. Loaded the boat...you guessed it..3 times. I've watched tons of YouTube videos and seems many drive onto the trailer.

so. I have a 89 19ft Searay. With a "EZ loader" (yeah right) trailer with rollers. My ramp I've used seems to be on the steeper end vs many I see on videos.

I've managed to drive on but as soon as I let off, I roll back. And seems only way is to leave motor in gear to hold me in place. I considered being out of water too much but seems any less I seem I don't have enough trailer to guide me straight. I considered the rope method but boat seems too heavy to guide it well enough...or unless when one uses a rope method, does trailer need to be lower in the water?

I understand I don't have a video but any suggestions or things to look at when I go back soon.

I will add, the last time lining up was tricky because I parked boat too close to trailer but was still 6ft to the side. I needed a longer attempt to get the boat straight...and by time I got trailer in...another boat parked behind me!!

 

[prlwng]

My boat is not as big. 1650 sc. 90% of time I fish solo. Here is my method with my roller trailer.

tie boat to dock
kill engine and trim up, raise engine a bit
hook long launch rope to bow eye
back trailer in
knee high rubber boots on now if not sooner
hold launch rope as untying boat
pull boat starting onto trailer, you are still on dock
step off dock pulling a bit more onto trailer
put rope around trailer wench
keep ahold of rope as you hook wench strap to eye
wench on
unhook launch rope and hook safety chain
throw launch rope into boat
pull up ramp after removing wheel chock


Not a spring chcken as I am retired so not alot of strength needed for this method. The rubber boots get wet to just above ankles. Do not step on trailer. Easy to slip. OUCH.

In fast current of 3 to 4 mph and no dock use launch rope, boat on upstream side, push boat back into current as quickly pulling onto trailer. Then wench it on.

Do have guide on rails. They help alot in current.

Used this method also with my 21ft i/o boat on bunks.


There is also a fancy latching mechanism for when bow gets to stop. Think they are about 2 or 3 hundred dollars. But then you still need to get off boat to ground.

 

[tpenfield]

Since you have rollers (not bunks) you should be able to winch the boat up. I would try getting the trailer a bit deeper and winch the boat up to the bow stop, rather than trying to 'drive' the boat up on the trailer. Also, you will want to re-check the position of the boat after you pull out of the water.

 

[Lou C]

With rollers it is a process of trying different depths till you find the one that works best for retrieving, if you are too shallow it may roll back, if you are too deep you will not hit the rear rollers and the stern of the boat may float sideways if there is any current or wind. When I was learning I found that I was putting the trailer in too deep, I tried backing it till the fenders are sticking out of the water a couple inches and that works well, the boat centers like it should and I can drive it up nearly to the stop. Now if you have a bow rider a good trick is to get a line, put the loop under one cleat, drive the boat on and leave it idling in gear to hold it. Then loop it round the winch stand and tie it off to the other cleat, this will hold the boat so you can shift to neutral, shut off the engine, trip up your drive. Then CAREFULLY climb over the bow to winch it on. I got one of these clamp on steps that makes it easier, for both launching and retrieving. This could work for a cuddy as well, you have to be a bit more careful though.
You can see that at my local ramp there is no dock next to the ramp so this is how you have to do it if you are by yourself. Also the side guides are highly recommended, they really help if it is the least bit windy or there is a current running.

 

[ahicks]

I agree regarding how far to back it in being an experiment at first. Might require some messing around, but once found you'll be surprised at how quick and easy trailering can be. I use water height on the fenders as a guide as well.

 

[JimS123]

Fifty years ago when I was in the process of getting my first trailerable boat, I would spend hours and hours at the launch ramp laughing at the idiot boaters, and of course learning what NOT to do.

I currently have a SeaRay 19 footer on an EZ loader trailer. Yes they REALLY are EZ loader, but they are also OMG fantastic fun to load trailers. But you have to know what to do.

The only picture I can provide is with my old Starcraft on a fully roller EZ loader.

The car needs to be out of the water. If you need boots, you didn't get the memo.

The trailer tires just need to be wet, not under water. The back of the car needs to be on the ramp, not in the water. The last rollers need to also be out of the water. Pull out the winch strap and connect it to the bow eye. Put the boat stem on the last roller (or between the last 2 wobble rollers as the case may be, and crank her in.

If you're feet are wet, you backed in too far. That's the usual misconception.

Most people have an awful time launching and retrieving. To me its just fun. If its not fun for you, you screwed up.

 

[ahicks]

With all due respect, loading a light weight fishing boat might be a little different than retrieving a MUCH heavier boat. The heavier boat will need to be floated on to the trailer at least partially (tires under water?). Trying to winch one on to a trailer with the rear roller out of the water is going to put incredible strain on a lot of equipment (and your arm) that's just not necessary.

I do agree that if/when done correctly, it's a no-brainer.

 

[JimS123]

As I said, it was the only pic I had. We load our FG 19 footer the same way, plus we have loaded a heavy 25 footer as well.

The factors are having enough rollers to begin with, and not backing in too far.

You can submerge the trailer completely and need little effort at all, but you are not likely to get the boat centered where it belongs. Driving on a roller trailer is usually futile unless the ramp has almost no incline.

Obviously, the heavier the boat the harder the cranking.

 

[ahicks]

Not saying it's impossible, but loading a 25' boat on a trailer with the first roller still out of the water sounds to me like a perfect example of boat landing entertainment, but what do I know. Not something I would ever try for sure. Go for it!

 

[Scott Danforth]

if I can winch my 3500# dry weight (4200# wet weight) 26 foot boot up the prior roller trailer and the current bunk trailer you can winch your puny little 18 foot boat up a roller trailer

people that power load should be drug into the street and beaten with a cane

back the trailer in just a tad bit deeper than jims pic in post 6 (almost as deep as post 4), clip the line on the bow eye and turn the handle.

 

[JimS123]

I learned about a handy gadget last year on this site as a matter of fact. The strap hook attaches to a clip on the end of a telescopic 6' pole. When you attach the hook to the bow eye all it takes is a turn of the wrist to disengage it. Now when I load the boat I don't even have to bend over!

I am often greeted with snide remarks from passerbys about not being able to load my boat unless I back in a lot further. A half minute later when I am now hooking up the safety chain they usually just turn around and walk away with no further comments.

Last year we had a lot of flooding and one of the ramps I use had only a single usable lane. We came back one evening and there was a guy in that lane trying to retrieve his boat. It was probably an 18 footer on an EZLoader brand trailer with dozens of rollers. He backed in so far that the car exhaust was bubbling under water. No winching, just walk in the water up to his knees and hook on the bow eye. Drive up and the boat is reallllly crooked, Back in and do over. After about 6 times I tied up to the courtesy dock and offered to help. His 4-lettered refusal was quite clear that he was an expert at this, so I decided to crack open a beer and just watch.

He finally gave up and left it crooked, while he was half blocking the parking lot. It took me longer to back my trailer around his rig than it did for me to load the boat. We were loaded and strapped down and starting to drive away while he was still trying to figure out how to use transom tie downs that were now too short. I could hear his wife screaming at him about why could that other guy load the boat so straight.

 

[Blind Date]

To the OP:

The correct way to load every boat/trailer combo I've owned since I started boating in 1990 is to back the trailer into the water with the top fronts of the fenders just sticking up out of the water, exactly the like the red boat pictured at a landing in Lou C's post. PERFECT!

I have a '89 SeaRay '160 w/140 Mercruiser on an EZ loader roller trailer(pretty similar to your set-up)and that is the way I load that boat. Same way I load my 250 Sundancer that sits on a 4 bunk trailer, same way I load my 1985 & 1981 Glastron Carlson CVX18's that both sit on bunk trailers. Same way I loaded my Century , Celebrity & Larson boats. SEE A PATTERN HERE?

WARNING: Do not follow the advice given by JimS123 for loading your '89 SeaRay.

That's a good way to damage the winch, winch strap, boat or worse.... yourself! The secret is to always back the trailer in deep enough that you can float the boat as far forward as possible before winching but still have enough contact between the boats hull & trailers bunks/rollers that it loads straight and/or level.

 

[eric102]

I'm a water at the top of the fender guy as well, EZ Loader roller trailer with 27' Searay Sundancer at about 7,000 lbs. Have always winched it on with no issues, the drive on guys scare the hell out of me!

 

[Lou C]

If you get it in a little deeper to launch it doesn’t matter as much as long as the stern is not floating high enough to start moving if there is a breeze or current. But when retrieving depth is important; you want the bow to contact the last row of rollers at the rear of the trailer, this will “steer” the boat straight up on the trailer. Any time I had trouble with getting it straight in the past it was because the trailer was in too deep. Then just leave it idling in gear and use the trick with the line i showed in my pic to hold it.
also add side guide well worth it.

 

[JimS123]

There are many ways to load and launch a boat. While most will "work", some are more user friendly than others.

If you sometimes find the boat to be crooked on the trailer, or you have to go back and do it again, or you take more than 2-3 minutes to giterdone, or you need to use hip boots, then just maybe your method isn't optimum. Regardless, if you are happy happy than what's the difference. The phrase "Listen Sonny, I've been doing it this way for fity ate years, so I know what I'm doin" is often used no matter what the task at hand.

I've found that the best way to learn how to do it is to take a six pack and sit at a busy ramp. You might only see a few experts at it, but you surely will learn in a hurry what NOT to do.

Of course a caveat - boat launch ramp design is well documented. If you use a mud private ramp in east podunk that is too shallow or too steep, then you might have to use Plan B.

 

[Scott06]

people that power load should be drug into the street and beaten with a cane

Scott you give great technical answers but you might be taking this forum too seriously...but funny

 

[Scott Danforth]

Scott you give great technical answers but you might be taking this forum too seriously...but funny

I have 2 busted props because the spoil from people power loading at the local ramp. Backed the boat in, parked truck, and tried to back boat out. Went from 6 feet to less than 2 feet

 

[JimS123]

Scott you give great technical answers but you might be taking this forum too seriously...but funny

I have 3 ramps in my town, one of which I refuse to use. It has a perfect concrete pad, designed at the correct angle and length, but the end was eroded due to power loaders. I know that, some do not.

Once I saw a guy back in (too far for the ramp, but still within the length of the dock) and he drove off the end. His attempt to pull back out basically just about ripped off his axle.

Not his fault - he didn't know. Wonder why power loading is prohibited in some areas?

 

[ahicks]

Not much on power loading either, but it's not like I never see it being done.

Sickening feeling feeling your trailer drop of the edge of a ramp you've never visited....

 

[KD4UPL]

Don't power load. I've got a 23 foot boat that weighs over 5,000 pounds and a bunk trailer. I winch my boat on.
I used to have a 20' boat on a tandem axle bunk trailer. Putting the fenders just under the water was perfect. This boat is also on a a tandem axle trailer. I have to put this trailer in just a bit deeper. You just have to learn by trial and error. Don't be afraid to get back in the tow vehicle and adjust the trailer in or out a bit if it's not loading right.
Also, I've been in situations with a lot of wind and rough water. I had to leave the trailer very shallow and winch the boat on a little. Then, back in a bit further and winch a little more, then do it again. The "high and dry" trailer provided something not moving to keep the boat centered until I could get it all the way on in those conditions.