New Cap'n Problems

[Darreld Walton]

First timer problems....1987 Reinell 215c, Cobra 7.5.
I bought the boat, and it had spent the biggest part of it's time in Utah, sold originally in SLC, then ended up in St. George. First big problem I had was steam that about ran us out of the boat, ended up being a 5/8" coolant line that runs to what looks to be an oil cooler on the back of the block. Previous owner said it'd had a recent "going over"...yeah, right. Anyhow, someone left a hose clamp loose, and the hose blew off. Funny thing, I never did find the hose clamp.
Got that squared away, engine temp never did get much higher than about 195 or so, at least on the gauge.
Biggest problem I have now, is that I took the boat up to Mackay (Idaho) Reservoir, where my GPS said the water surface was right at 6100 feet. The boat had previously been run and spent biggest part of it's life on Mead. I couldn't get it to fire, and when it finally did, got a very, very strong odor of like paint thinner. Previous owner said that he was quite sure that now that he thought about it, the gas had been in there for at least four years. 80 gallon tank, I topped it off before we went out, and took on 20 gallons to fill it. Looks like I've got a LOT of lawn mowing fuel! Every plug, after I pulled them at home, was sooty black, and 'greasy', which eventually evaporated off. Points in the distributor were 'burnt', with metal transfer between the pads, and the cap showed no evidence of tracks, cracks, or buildup on the inside terminals. Replaced points, rotor, cleaned up the cap, installed new spark plugs, and getting ready to head out, but on a gut feeling, I pulled the 4160 Holley off, and pulled the front bowl to have a look-see. Everything inside the carb is squeaky clean and bright. #73 primary jets, and the power valve seems to be intact and in good shape. Phenolic float, and I'm wondering if now would be a good time to ditch it for a new one while it's apart.
Should I consider re-jetting this carb with smaller jets? I doubt the boat will ever run much below 4500 feet elevation, and more likely higher, like on Palisades, Island Park Res., Henry's, Mackay, and the like. Thanks for reading this short novel, and in advance for any imput.....

 

[SeanMcl]

Re: New Cap'n Problems

You can call Holley tech support Monday through Friday from 8AM to 6PM CST, and Saturday from 9AM to 3PM CST @ 270 781-9741. Give them the list number on the choke horn and they can tell you the right jets for your altitude. Jets are cheap and easy to change on the Holleys, so you might as well. If it is jetted for Lake Mead altitude (1200 ft), you probably should rejet.

One thing you probably will want to do is re-prop. Going from Lake mead (1200 ft) to 6000 ft, you will take quite a performance hit. For example, I run a 15 prop when I take my boat up to Flaming Gorge once a year (6030 ft), but a 19 works great down to Lake Powell (3600 ft), and I run a 17 where I use it mostly at 4200 ft. I tried changing the jets once for the Flaming Gorge trip and it had no impact at all that I could tell, but I can tell if I don't change props. At 6000 ft and 90 degrees air temp, you have only 77% of your rated horsepower due to lower air pressure.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: New Cap'n Problems

Howdy, .......Mine was an 87!


You should absolutely rejet. AND Holley tech support will hook you right up!

80 gallon tank, I topped it off before we went out, and took on 20 gallons to fill it. Looks like I've got a LOT of lawn mowing fuel! Every plug, after I pulled them at home, was sooty black, and 'greasy', which eventually evaporated off.

You should drain all the fuel. If you want to use it, I wouldn't use more than about 10 gallons at a time mixed with otherwise fresh gas.

When I pulled my former OMC 7.5L engine out of my 21ft Four Winns, I also took the carb apart......I thought after 20 years it would be REALLY "dirty" inside.....

The only thing wrong with it was the gaskets I destroyed taking it apart!! It was PRISTINE clean inside! (as was the fuel tank)

Replaced points, rotor, cleaned up the cap, installed new spark plugs, and getting ready to head out, but on a gut feeling,

YOu NEED a NEW cap and I would also replace the spark-plug wiring too!

Also,

If you do not know how old the risers and manifolds are, you NEED to remove them and inspect. break the risers apart from the manifolds so you can inspect(destroy) the riser gaskets (so you can replace them) If they leak, they WILL destroy your engine. (it happened to mine)

You should probably reprop it if yours is a 19" (pitch) prop...... I ran a 19p SS cupped/repitched to 20 and the boat ran 60 mph at 5000 RPM. I also had a 17p SS prop but I couldn't run it. It was just too low at around sea-level so I just used it as a spare...........Still have them by the way......


You're lucky. Manifolds, risers and couplers are available again.


Be careful with that drive though.


Get yourself an OEM OMC service manual and if you change the drive oil, DO NOT FILL IT FROM THE BOTTOM DRAIN!!! It will destroy it....It happens to several here each year that don't get the word!!! Mine was changed by a "dealer" once who "filled it like a Merc"......they ended up replacing it (without lawyering-up)

They're getting harder and harder to rebuild/replace (the King Cobra Dog-clutch drives).........there are some showstopper parts that are simply not available at any price.....

If you LOVE the boat......start looking NOW for a Mercruiser or Volvo Penta BBC engine and associated drive so you can replace the OMC in the future.

I was able to get about $3500 (total) by separately parting everything out over a 2-3 year period....pretty much everything is gone now (except the props) I only got $150 for the (core) engine but I got $1450 for the drive.... I was amazed that someone wanted the gimbal, and all the other associated parts.......

I also kept the oil and fuel filter plumbing/mounting to use on a truck I'm restoring.

195 is too hot for the engine if the gage is correct (you need to verify it)

If you haven't, you need to remove and replace the raw water pump........DO NOT believe the previous owner if he said "Oh yeah....I replaced the pump!!"

Also, check that oil cooler in the back for impeller fragments or other debris that may have lodged in it and are restricting water flow. That will ABSOLUTELY cause the engine, manifolds, and risers to run HOT HOT HOT!! Check your power steering cooler too!



Have fun!



Rick


Oh yeah......Welcome to iboats!!

 

[Darreld Walton]

Re: New Cap'n Problems

After rejetting two sizes smaller, new plugs, cleaning the distributor cap, freshening the contacts, replacing the points and generally going over and tightening everything, AND dumping two jugs of Seafoam and a bottle of Stabil in, I took it back to Mackay. Water level last weekend was 6050 by my gps. Fired in just a few revolutions, sat there and idled at 1000 rpm, accelerated smoothly, with no bog, hesitation, and had LOTS of throttle left after hitting the top of my comfort zone. Engine temp hovered around 150 by the gauge this time down considerably from the blown hose incident. Ran her for about four hours, mostly putting around at about 1500 and occasionally goosing it up to 3000 or so. Had a few minor leaks at the rubber elbows, so I tightened the clamps gently till they quit leaking. Didn't see a reason to get heavy handed with 'em.
Had a ball with it. My first good outting with 'er, and I'm pleased, but consider she's my first, and I don't have anything to compare her to.
Thanks for all!!!

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: New Cap'n Problems

Well, it sounds like you got it running good! I would NOT run 4 year old gas straight! ..........

Sea Foam, Stabil, and other snake oils WILL NOT improve octane on old gasoline........As gasoline gets really old the octane drops dramatically. You should at least drain out more than 75% of it and refill with fresh gas. Running it straight is going to put you at risk of detonation. (which during a full throttle hole-shot or WOT run might cause permanent damage)

You NEED to reset the idle RPM though. It should idle around 600-650 RPM NO higher.

If you continue to run it with a high idle, you will damage the drive.

A 19p prop might be a little high geared for it. You might try a 17. (PM me if you want mine)

The 17p prop was way too low for operation at sea level. I also have a 19p prop that my brother had cupped & repitched to 20. For my 21' Four Winns in my signature, it was just right!



If it's going to live at high alt from now on, you need to prop the drive so it turns around 4800 at WOT. (I think the 460 was rated at 4200-4800 RPM. An owners manual will tell you)

You should also (SOON) remove the drive and inspect the bellows, gimbal bearing, U-joints, and check the alignment. (unless you KNOW that it was done recently.)


If you or the previous owner did not replace the raw water pump. DO IT NOW instead of waiting for it to fail.



Good luck,


Rick