New CDI Powerpack on Chrysler 140

[pickenpost]

Question. When I install the new CDI 115-3301 power pack on my Chrysler 140, where should the black, I assume ground wire go? This wire kind of daisy chained from the distributor case to the old coil inside terminal. The installation instructions also said I don't use the white or red wire from the motorola "brick".

 

[Frank Acampora]

On the old Motorola CD ignition, black was a ground for the coil--if you put voltage into the positive terminal, it needs somewhere to go or the coil will act like a capacitor instead of generating a high voltage pulse. Thus, the short black wire grounds to the engine through the distributor mount. It really could be any length and ground anywhere on the block. If the new coil is grounded to the mount, (probably through one of the mounting screws) you probably still need the ground wire because the mount will be attached on the rubber isolators. If this is the case, ground through the mounting screw that is on the coil ground strap.

The white wire was always a tachometer signal wire while the red wire was a constant 12 volt power source to the Motorola capacitors, whether or not the ignition was on. Blue wire was a switched power source for the internal electronics in the Motorola AND the electric eye in the electronic distributor (if the engine had one

Don't know your replacement CD box but you can probably figure it from the above. I suspect that the internal capacitors are now switched along with the CD box main power source and the red wire is simply not needed.

 

[Nordin]

I have put this CDI 115-3301 at one of my 75Hp Chryslers and as Frank says red is not needed, black to engineground, blue to blue at engine terminalstrip and white/black to distributor points/electric eye terminal.
I have connect the blackwire at CDI pack to mountingscrew for the plate and then,I put a wire from that screw to the groundscrew at the distributor.

 

[pickenpost]

Thanks gents. I grounded it and the setup worked geat! Fantastic day pulling the kids in a tube around the lake!

 

[pickenpost]

Two more questions. I want to change the bottom-end lube on the 140. What's the correct procedure to get the old oil out and the new in? I see two screws side by side. One labeled Vent and one labeled Fill. I purchased a hand pump and some 80W-90 lower unit lube today.
Also, when I connect bow and stern lights for 4th of July night cruise, whats a safe fuse amperage to introduce into the circuit?

 

[MickLovin]

Personally I used to slightly tilt my motor up a little bit off straight up and down while have a bucket underneath the bottom screw plug. I un-screw the plug underneath about 4 inches from the front of the gear box, this way the oil won't gush out untill you release the vent and fill plug-screws. Let it fully drain the old oil out, then cap the bottom drain plug which is at the bottom not the side, DON"T unscrew the gear screw which is at the bottom but on the side. After installing a NEW GASKET/PLASTIC WASHER on that drain plug screw and inserting it into the drain hole, you are able to fill your oil through the fill hole until it starts coming out of the vent hole. Let it rest a minute then try refill until same. On the old 2 piece gear box they had to fill from the bottom drain hole, as there were no vent holes on them, but with the one piece they do which makes life really easy .

Your lights could be fused by a 5 - 10 amp fuse depending on what sort of lighting you are using, with the new LED lighting, they use little power, and I put a good 30 metres of it in my boat on a 5 amp so up to you. I will say this, if you use Halogen lamps, you will definatley need 10 amps.

 

[pickenpost]

Thanks very much. I'll give it a try.

Tim