"New" Classic 2452...Let's start with deck fitting recaulking

[bigblock454]

Hey folks... Just got my newest project (actually a couple of weeks ago). 1993 Bayliner Classic 2452, in pretty good shape! I've been cleaning on her, and ordered a boatload of parts last night (transom assy kit, bellows, shift cable, etc). I'd like to start with recaulking all of her deck fittings (bowrail, cleats, horns, etc). I see a whole host of sealants and caulks available at WM! I see 5200, 4000, life-seal, the list goes on and on! None of it is "cheap", I know, but what on a boat is! Can someone please advise me on a product that worked well for this? I'm guessing 5200 is not recommended because it is considered "permanent". I've never really cared for silicone either, but if someone knowledgeable told me "that's the best" (doubtful), I will use it. I'm looking to remove, clean residual old caulk and debris and reseal. Thank you for your insight.
Norm

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Stick with your gut never use silicone on a boat, it doesn't have the adhesion properties to make it stand up in a vibrating flexing marine environment.

I'm going to say use the 4200 for the task you have at hand. I've only used 5200 so I can't speak as to the difference in removing things that were put in with 4200.

From my recent deconstruction experience I can tell you that through bolts can be removed with a hammer and punch with little to no damage. If washers are installed and seated in the squeeze out they are bonded to the surface quite well and will likely yield damage when they are pried/chiseled off. Wood screw type threaded screws can be removed but are very difficult to break lose and I'd say about half the time the heads drive surface will show some damage (stripping). Any kind of seam between two parts, (ie splash well to transom) you will have damage of some sort to one or both surfaces.

 

[bigblock454]

Thanks TruckDrivingFool (I'm a TrainDrivingFool myself )... Anyway, WOW... I'm guessing what you are saying is that you've used 5200 and then deconstructed fittings and such, that were affixed with it and yielded those results? Maybe the 4200 would be better for what I need. What's funny is I don't remember seeing 4200 at WM! I'm sure it was there. I saw the "4000". I think it described itself as "semi permanent", or something like that. I will check it out! I am interested in tightening, and seeing the "squeeze out" that you mentioned. But I can say this... Cleaning the residual "squeeze out" when using 5200, is NOT fun! It seemed like a "thumbtack sized" dollop took half a roll of paper towels to clean up! I'm certain that you know what I mean there! Thanks again!

Norm

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

The 5200 does it's job well but I hated using it as the clean up sucks (if you can get it cleaned up). I used 5200 when I replaced the wood in the transom of my Jet four years ago to get it seaworthy. Recently tore it back apart to do a full restore. Lost a layer of ply from where the SW/Transom seam was caulked with 5200. A little bit of reading and sounds like the 4000 just has less adhesive properties than the 4200 so that should work well for you and hopefully be easier to clean up.

 

[bigblock454]

Wow... I didn't realize that the 5200 would dig in THAT good! Great stuff!! That said... the 4000 sounds like "the stuff" for me. Thanks again!

Norm

 

[bigblock454]

I guess that I should mention that "removability" is key to me right now. I got this boat late in the year (just a couple of weeks ago), and cold weather is a comin. So, I was hoping to do a good job sealing her all up, and just cleaning/scrubbing her all up to get her as clean as possible for the next season. But I will probably be looking to paint in the future. She has a few scars that I would like to fill and touch-up for now, but I'd like to get her looking real nice at a later time. My attention is going to be directed to the outdrive first (as far a big money goes). Leaning towards an SEI unit, I have two lower assemblies and an upper that came with the boat, but they are meant for a 5.0 liter. she has a 5.7 in her now, so I'll be looking for the 1:47 to 1 rather than the 1:62 (I think) that I have now. Probably a topic for a new thread.

Norm

 

[bigblock454]

I would like to post some questions regarding SEI outdrives and my current outdrives for my new Cruiser. I guess I should post in the "engine section"?? I want to get the most help I can with making a determination of what I should use. New SEI unit, rebuild current unit or look for used. There are a lot of variables involved. Where should I begin asking my questions, and ranting my thoughts? Thanks.

Norm

 

[DeepBlue2010]

I would use 3M 4000 if I were you for its superior UV resistance which is something you need in this application as well as the discoloration resistance. IMO, The strength difference between 4200 & 4000, in your case is meaningless

Tensile strength for both is 300 PSI

Elongation % before breaking is 900% for 4200 and 800% for 4000


Deck fittings are mechanically fastened to the deck, the sealant is not meant to "glue" them to the deck. so the Elongation value difference between the two is of no consequence in your specific application.

By the way, here is a comparison sheet between all 3M sealants http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/3...t-brochure.pdf


Regarding the outdrive questions, go to the forum list and post in the Mercruiser I/O forum. I assume you have a merc on that boat, I never came across any bayliner 2452 with anything else.

 

[bigblock454]

Thank you DeepBlue2010. Thank you for the advice on the 4000, I will pick some up today. I will post my questions and concerns regarding my outdrive (you are correct with it being a merc) in the appropriate forum.

Norm