New here and posting first question

moxymech1

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May 22, 2009
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I have a 1975 6hp evinrude that is stuck, have tried letting oil sit in it since last year with no luck. Even tried the persuasive wooden dowl and BFH trick with no success!

I have a chance to get a 1968 evinrude 6hp power head.

Will the 1968 6hp power head fit on a 1975 6hp frame?

thanks,

Moxy
 

moxymech1

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May 22, 2009
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Re: New here and posting first question

Any one have an idea if it will fit?
 

CATransplant

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Re: New here and posting first question

Go to www.tcoutboard.com and call the number there. Ask them. Outboard junkyards know what fits on what. I think the block will bolt up to the leg, but you may have to swap in the later carb to get linkages and adjustments in the right places.

8 years is a long time, even with a warhorse like the 6hp outboards from OMC.
 

tx1961whaler

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Re: New here and posting first question

I'll go out on a limb here and say yes. I went to http://shop.evinrude.com and compared the two different powerheads, and the look like they at least have the same exhaust housing gasket, which means it will bolt up. They have the same flywheels, which means the ignition is the same. The linkage looks the same, so I'd say yes. Of course, I'm not the one payin for it all......so you might want to go to the site and do a comparison yourself.
 

kenmyfam

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Re: New here and posting first question

I'll go out on a limb here and say yes. I went to http://shop.evinrude.com and compared the two different powerheads, and the look like they at least have the same exhaust housing gasket, which means it will bolt up. They have the same flywheels, which means the ignition is the same. The linkage looks the same, so I'd say yes. Of course, I'm not the one payin for it all......so you might want to go to the site and do a comparison yourself.
Well put !!!
 

jay_merrill

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Re: New here and posting first question

My guess is that you could make the swap work.

There are quite a few differences between the two powerheads in terms of part number comparison. Some of those differences may be nothing more than situations where one part number supercedes the other. There are some, however, that appear to reflect real differences.

The crankcase assembly (two halves) for the '68 motor are physically different than the those for the '75. The difference that I saw (there may be more), is that the '68 motor has an oil drain valve on the front, starboard side of the front casing half. The '75 powerhead does not have this feature.

The driveshaft assembly and all of the lower crankshaft seal components are the same between the two models. That's a good sign and means that there shouldn't be any incompatibilities between the '68 crankshaft and the '75 driveshaft.

The exhaust housing for the '75 is also a different part number than the one for the '68. Whether that really means anything, is hard to say just by looking at a parts diagram.

What is interesting, and may say quite a bit about whether the older powerhead will mate up with the '75 motor, is that the exhaust housing gasket, which fits between the exhaust housing and the powerhead base, is the same for both motors. That tells me that the bolt pattern is the same, as is the water passage configuration.

On the carburetor, the float bowls for the two motors have the same part number, so they are the same. The body on each carb is different, however. This is true not only of the part numbers - in the diagram, you can see that the casting is physically different. The main feature change appears to be in the design of the cam follower. The orifice plug and slow speed needle valve for the two motors also have different part numbers. Once again, its hard to say if the numbers are just updated, or if the parts are physically different.

In the case of the carb, however, the gasket tells a good story too. They part numbers are the same for the two motors, so the '75 carb (which you will probably have to use if the choke lever is positioned differently) should bolt up to the '68 powerhead.

Next on the list is the intake manifold. There are different part numbers for the two engines. I looked at this because the intake has the mounting point for the recoil starter on it, and there are differences in the starter between the two motors. Once again, the gasket that sits between the manifold and the leaf plate tells an encouraging story - it is the same for both motors, so you should be able to swap manifold covers if you have to. What appears to be different between the two motors behind the manifold gasket cover, is that the leaf plate and the leaf plate gasket on the '75 motor, don't have a cutout in them for the oil drain. In both cases, the part numbers for the leaf valve and the leaf stop are the same.

All of that said, and while there are some subtle differences in the recoil starter assemblies, the general positioning of them appears to be the same. From a practical perspective, that may mean that the setup on the '68 motor will work just fine.

I looked at a couple of other things too. The armature plate control lever, which is the vertically oriented "throttle lever" on the port side of the motor, is the same in both engines. Since the steering bracket is the same for both engines too, it is positioned on the respective powerheads the same way, so a swap shouldn't be a problem. The cam shown in the magneto group sections for each motor is the same, so if you have to go to the '75 carb, you shouldn't have problems.

While I realize that a long, written narration of differences between the motors is hard to process, if you load up shop.evinrude.com in two windows, with one for the '68 motor and one for the '75 motor, you will be able to follow the points made.

Hopefully, all of this info helps you get an idea if your plan will work, but it isn't foolproof. In the end, sometimes you just have to gamble. Whether or not it is a good gamble in your case, depends on the asking price for '68 powerhead and its general condition. If it was known to have decent compression before removed from the rest of the motor, and is priced relatively low, I would probably "go for it."
 

PW2

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Apr 21, 2004
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Re: New here and posting first question

You sure the powerhead is the problem?

I'd disconnect the lower unit and make sure nothing is jammed up there before I'd plan on replacing the powerhead.
 

moxymech1

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May 22, 2009
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Re: New here and posting first question

Jay,

Thanks for the encouraging post, i will go for it! The price is right for the whole motor! It just has a cracked up housing where the tiller arm connects :D

PW2,

I am 100% on the siezed piston, i removed the head of the motor and it's all rusted. This was my childhood motor and was shedded when we picked up a 9.9. It was not stored properly and had never been fogged!

The other thing i remember is that the shift lever wouldn't stay in forward position, so will be tinkering with that also from the 68.

Thanks, and I will keep you posted on the swap, pics to be included!

Moxy
 

moxymech1

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May 22, 2009
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Re: New here and posting first question

I decided not to swap power heads but to swap the brackets,

I first removed the 68 from it's pilot steering bracket, 8 bolts and 30 minutes was all done.

I then removed the 75 from it's pilot steering bracket, 8 bolts and 5 minutes

I then attached the 68 motor with leg still attached to the 75 bracket in about 10 minutes

All done before dinner! :D
 

tx1961whaler

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May 31, 2008
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Re: New here and posting first question

I decided not to swap power heads but to swap the brackets,

I first removed the 68 from it's pilot steering bracket, 8 bolts and 30 minutes was all done.

I then removed the 75 from it's pilot steering bracket, 8 bolts and 5 minutes

I then attached the 68 motor with leg still attached to the 75 bracket in about 10 minutes

All done before dinner! :D

That's no fun! How dare you use logic to solve the issue! :D:D
Swap the old ID plate over if it's still there, or maybe 15 years from now you won't remember what year your motor really is :) I have a 40 that i "think" is mostly a 1969......
 

River Boy

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Apr 18, 2009
Messages
92
Re: New here and posting first question

I have a 1975 6hp evinrude that is stuck, have tried letting oil sit in it since last year with no luck. Even tried the persuasive wooden dowl and BFH trick with no success!

I have a chance to get a 1968 evinrude 6hp power head.

Will the 1968 6hp power head fit on a 1975 6hp frame?

thanks,

Moxy

OMC made the 6hp 8.84 cubic inch block till 1979 my book says. I know they were makng that motor by at least 1966. Around 79 or 80 things changed. They dumped the old 6hp fisherman and went to the 4.5/7.5/8hp style 10 cubic inch block. I bet it'll work.
 

moxymech1

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Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
10
Re: New here and posting first question

Swap the old ID plate over if it's still there, or maybe 15 years from now you won't remember what year your motor really is :)
Great idea on swapping the tags, I just wish the cowl from the 75 would fit on the 68 (it's more stylin) , I guess I could have changed more stuff to get that to work, maybe on a rain or snow day!
 
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