SweeperForce
Chief Petty Officer
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2010
- Messages
- 487
Hello,
Yhis post is just a project I did today.
Every so often when I'd try to start my motor, nothing would happen. After a few failed attepts the key worked. I figured if the problem is imtermittant now , it will become perminate later. So I swapped it out. Now I got an after maket switch, non of the wires matched up. After locating the 12+ wire everything fell in place.
Put the meter on continuity( I perfer the beeps) with one lead on the 12+ wire.
Turn the key one click to the right, then test each wire when it beeps thats your ACC wire.
Push the key in and do the same as above for Choke
Turn the key two clicks for Starter.
Now locate the ground wire, there should be only one more wire left. Check the continuity between that wire and the ground. You should hear a beep when the switch is off and lose continuity when the key is turned.
Here info about the factory switch that should have came with your boat(I think Frank A wrote this out):
The switch is (or should be) a standard six pole push to choke. To check it you use a VOM on the terminals. The two "M" terminals should have continuity with the switch off and infinite resistance with the switch on. This is the kill circuit and with the switch off it grounds the CD capacitors to prevent them from dumping voltage into the coils. Thus: no spark.
The "I" or ?A? terminal should have continuity (or show 12 volts) with the "B" terminal only when the switch is on or in start. This powers accessories.
The "S" terminal should show continuity with the "B" terminal only with the key in the start position.
The "C" terminal should only have continuity with the "B" terminal only when the key is pushed in and held.
Battery (red wire) Should be wired to the "B" terminal. White to one "M", blue to the other "M", yellow to "S", and green to "C".
Red should NEVER show any connection to an "M" terminal.
Internally the switch is a fiber disc with copper segments (like a printed circuit board) that are contacted at various positions. They are relatively trouble free and usually fail by losing contact. BUT: If a segment has come loose and shifted it could intermittently short the wrong terminals. The switches are assembled either with a metal case and prongs or a plastic snap together case. With either it is possible to remove the back and check the switch internally but with a new one costing only 17-25 bucks, why bother?
Enjoy,
Tom
Yhis post is just a project I did today.
Every so often when I'd try to start my motor, nothing would happen. After a few failed attepts the key worked. I figured if the problem is imtermittant now , it will become perminate later. So I swapped it out. Now I got an after maket switch, non of the wires matched up. After locating the 12+ wire everything fell in place.
Put the meter on continuity( I perfer the beeps) with one lead on the 12+ wire.
Turn the key one click to the right, then test each wire when it beeps thats your ACC wire.
Push the key in and do the same as above for Choke
Turn the key two clicks for Starter.
Now locate the ground wire, there should be only one more wire left. Check the continuity between that wire and the ground. You should hear a beep when the switch is off and lose continuity when the key is turned.
Here info about the factory switch that should have came with your boat(I think Frank A wrote this out):
The switch is (or should be) a standard six pole push to choke. To check it you use a VOM on the terminals. The two "M" terminals should have continuity with the switch off and infinite resistance with the switch on. This is the kill circuit and with the switch off it grounds the CD capacitors to prevent them from dumping voltage into the coils. Thus: no spark.
The "I" or ?A? terminal should have continuity (or show 12 volts) with the "B" terminal only when the switch is on or in start. This powers accessories.
The "S" terminal should show continuity with the "B" terminal only with the key in the start position.
The "C" terminal should only have continuity with the "B" terminal only when the key is pushed in and held.
Battery (red wire) Should be wired to the "B" terminal. White to one "M", blue to the other "M", yellow to "S", and green to "C".
Red should NEVER show any connection to an "M" terminal.
Internally the switch is a fiber disc with copper segments (like a printed circuit board) that are contacted at various positions. They are relatively trouble free and usually fail by losing contact. BUT: If a segment has come loose and shifted it could intermittently short the wrong terminals. The switches are assembled either with a metal case and prongs or a plastic snap together case. With either it is possible to remove the back and check the switch internally but with a new one costing only 17-25 bucks, why bother?
Enjoy,
Tom
