New long block 5.7 GI-C and DP-C what to replace??

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I am working on installing a new GM longblock in my 1993 25’ Mid-Jet SeaMaster. The engine is a 2003 5.7 MPI GI-C 3869189 outdrive is a DP-C big pin. Would like to hear any reccomendations for parts to install while everything is apart. Here is a list of what I already have for the engine:
New raw water pump
Injectors cleaned/tested
new manifoldsand risers
all fuel filters
thermostat

Dp-c outdrive:
seal kit
anode kit
 

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Scott Danforth

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bellows kit, synthetic lube for the outdrive, lube and filters for the motor. new control cables
 

alldodge

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What was the reason for the new block, worn out, cracked block, or other?
 

Lou C

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Starter?
I see a new alternator on there. With a new long block I'd add closed cooling for sure. Even in fresh water.
 
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Bellows were something I was going to get I forgot to add to list. I will take a look at my control cables. I am sure they are probably due for replacement.

I bought the boat not running and found out either the risers or gaskets were bad and rusted a couple cylinders and valves.

Engine does have a closed loop cooling system on it. I pulled the end caps off of the exchanger and quite a few of the tubes were plugged up. I bought a brass .17 HMR rifle bore brush that looks like it will fit the tubes perfectly. So I will clean the tubes and install new rubber end cap gaskets and a new sacrificial anode.

Starter sounded very healthy so I think I will leave that as a lot of the new starters seem like junk anyways. Is there any sort of bearing inside of the flywheel cover that should be replaced...I want to do as many mechanical failure type parts that I can while it’s all torn down. Also does anyone have any idea what props I will want on this 25’ boat..when I was looking awhile ago I thought B3’s sounded like the ones.
 

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Scott Danforth

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fouling of heat exchanger tubes is common. people dont maintain them until something goes wrong. normally once you prod the shells and rocks out, the remainder of dirt simply rinses out.

for props, B3 or B4 would be my guess since your seamaster will be a bit heavier than mine

I was running B6's before my motor swap on my boat and its 26' oal
 

Bondo

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Would like to hear any reccomendations for parts to install while everything is apart.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... With the empty motor well,...

You'll never find a better time to throw in a new bilge pump, or pumps, 'n plumbin',.... ;)
 
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Thank you. Yes that’s a good idea I do have some new Attwood tsunamis from the old boat that never got installed. Does anyone know which bearing I need for that flex plate cover transom plate adapter? (Excuse the terminology) I am wanting to get everything ordered as I have a wk off here soon and want to get this thing dropped in.
 

alldodge

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bearing I need for that flex plate cover transom

If your talking about the gimbal bearing, just search Mercruiser gimbal bearing, there all the same
 

muc

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If your talking about the gimbal bearing, just search Mercruiser gimbal bearing, there all the same

I don't think a DP-C uses a gimbal bearing. Pretty sure this is a PDS transom shield. Don S has a nice sticky about these.

Also, one thing to look at when engine is out. Some boat builders didn't grind out an area of the transom to allow the trim ram pins to be removed. This makes trim ram replacement almost impossible with the engine installed. You might want to take a look at your service manual and see if you have this issue. And it wouldn't hurt to remove, grease and reinstall these pins now. If you ever have to replace a trim ram ---- you will be very happy you did!
 
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