New Outboard Owner Needs Help

[wvcorvetteman]

I recenty purchased a very low hour 1996 Bayliner 1600 LS with a 1996 Force by Mercury 75 HP. To be honest I thought I was purchasing a Mercury. I thought Force was ther series of engine like a Optimax or Verado. Once I purchased a new prop and got home I figured out I had a major problem! Anyways, could someone please describe for me the starting procedure for this engine? Once I pump the priming bulb the first time is it suppose to stay hard? I have replaced MINE with a new Atwood but it continues to go soft and the boat dies at idle. i can crank and crank but, if I dont pump it firm it wont start. The boat will idle nicely till it burns out the fuel. If you stand there and keep pumping it wont die. The inline fuel filter is not staying complety full. At about 4600 RPMS it surges and then cuts out. Does this sound like a bad fuel pump?

 

[tommarvin]

1. It sounds like your fuel pump/diaphragm in not working correctly.
2 The starting procedure to start an outboard is, When you pump the priming bulb,it's supposed too stay hard, first time always choke till she fires.In fast idle..
3. I think it goes soft because the fuel pump is not working/ the diaphragm needs to be replaced.
4.You diagnosed this correctly, you have to pump the ball to keep it going, idles fine till she runs out of gas.
5. I-boats.com may have the rebuild kit.
6. Drain and fill LU gear oil,and use factory seals for the drain, fill, vent.
7. Replace water pump impeller.
8. Clean/rebuild carb(s) if you suspect a fuel delivery problem.

 

[flyingscott]

That motor is not fuel injected like a verado or optimax it has carbs. Here should be your cold start procedure.

#1 Pump the ball until hard
#2 Depending on which controller you have you need to set the high idle for starting. I think there are 2 or 3 different controllers for that
#2A you may have the controller with the push button in the center of the handle. push the button in and advance the throttle a little
#2B Or you have the controller that has 2 levers the smaller one push up a little.
#2C Or your controller has the handle that pulls out and you push it forward. With all 3 you want you idle to be set about 1500 rpm.
#3 Push and hold the choke and turn the key until it starts you may need to hold the choke for a couple of seconds to keep it running.
It will need some time to warm up leave it on the high idle for a couple of minutes.
The ball is supposed to go soft a after the motor starts.

 

[wvcorvetteman]

Thanks for the fast reply Tom! On my Mercruiser I would pull out the control in Neutral and then pump it twice then put it 1/4 the way down. Do I have to do that step on this boat? You mention "Fast idle" How do I put it in fast idle? Is there a reason I need to change the gear oil in the lower unit again? I just had it changed last month. He told me the impeller looked great.

So is the priming bulb suppose to stay hard the rest of the day on the lake? Or do people have to prime them when they stop for any length of time? Thank you for your time!

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard.

Your fuel pump is bad.

Your fuel pump kit should be http://www.iboats.com/Sierra-18-781...5895223--session_id.660812920--view_id.174941 Verify to make sure.

The bulb may soften after the motor starts and normally only need to pump it up for cold starts or if the motor has been off for a very long on the water. Fuel filters always look empty - It's their nature.

What remote control do you have so we can tell how to use the idle warm up function?

Tom is talking normal, new to you motors. You already changed the lower unit lube, no need to do it again.

What do you mean by "He told me the impeller looked great." Are you saying he dropped the lower unit, looked at the impeller and put it back together without changing it? Bad idea - the impeller should have been changed. A new impeller is cheap insurance for motor long life.

 

[wvcorvetteman]

Thank you GA Boater!

Is it possible to just purchase a new pump rather than a rebuild kit? My remote is a Quicksilver 3000. Well I asked him specifically about the impeller and he said he checked it and it appeared to have been replaced recently. My guy is an older guy who retired from a boat dealership; Its not in his nature to replace things that are good. I get your point though.

 

[GA_Boater]

I believe you press the button in the center of the handle pivot to get throttle only.

I can't find replacement fuel pumps. The kit I linked to contains all the replaceable parts. The only thing left are the metal bodies, the kit is the best way to go.

 

[jerryjerry05]

No need to buy a complete pump unless the housing has melted or the base has melted.
​The I/O starting procedures don't work on an outboard.
The I/O has an accelerator pump and the carb on the Force doesn't.

If it's running out of fuel??
When you pump the ball does it get hard?
If so then the pump might be ok.It has a diaphragm that if it was bad or ripped the ball wouldn't stay hard.
I'd rebuild it anyway.
The connector from the tank to the motor can leak and suck air.Thus run out of fuel after a short time.

The guy who said the impeller "looked good"?? BAD!!
If you go to the trouble to check it?? Replace it. You probably only need to replace the impeller and maybe a gasket.

The squeezie has ONE job. It's to draw fuel from the tank.
The pump isn't strong enough to do this unless you try to start for a LONG time.
It's supposed to go soft after initial startup.
​A new squeezie can be bad right out of the box(chineese crap).
They have a one way valve that can be bad and shut off the fuel.