New to boating, many questions...

[KingTut713]

I apologize if this is all over the place or if it is posted improperly. I am attempting to get into boating as I am interested in multiple facets of it. Previously I have no experience with powered boats or trailers. After looking at the purchase of a boat I have come to the conclusion that I should get some additional knowledge prior to making a purchase. All items assume I am willing to put in the work to fix/repair/or update myself despite a limited knowledge of repairs.

1- Before we even get to the boat how can I determine what size boat my truck can pull? (1992 Chevy S10 V6 2.8L)

2- There have been several pontoon boats on the cusp of my price range that have no trailer. Assuming I can rent a slip on the water what is the most cost effective way to get the boat from A to B without owning a trailer?

3- One trailer was listed as needing a leaf spring. If the boat needs to be stored on the trailer can you make this repair while the boat is on it or would I need to put the boat in the water to replace the leaf spring?

4- It seems that many boats for sale need extensive work on things like upholstery and carpeting, are those costly fixes to do yourself?

5- I looked up the serial number for a mercruiser (0c690367) and got no results. What additional information do I need to see how much parts would be?

6- There is an 89 maxum ski boat with the above listed mercruiser I/O. It is noted that the boat loses power at full throttle and aside from that has no issues mechanically. My thought was a carb rebuild would possibly fix the issue. Are there any giant red flags about a boat that has this issue?

7- Many people have boats that are not on the water. I am shopping for a pontoon or ski boat in the sub $3000 range, what is the etiquette on test driving a boat in this price range if it is not on the water? Additionally can you turn it on while its trailered?

8- Craigslist and Facebook marketplace are the two main resources I have been using to look for boats in my area. BoatTrader seems to tailor itself to a higher price range. Are there any other good places to look for cheaper boats?

9- Are there any brands I should stay away from boat wise or engine wise?

10- From what I understand it is much easier to winterize an outboard engine. Will I regret getting an I/O engine when it comes time to winterize?

Thanks in advance!

 

[superbenk]

These are all great questions to ask. I think that price range will be difficult but probably not impossible. I’ll try to answer a few questions here, but I’m on a phone so may keep this somewhat short:

1. Look up your vehicle here & read the articles in their tow guide: http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/

2. Not sure on this answer but know that towing pontoons in the wind is difficult (as I understand it - never done it). They have a huge profile to act like a sail in the wind.

3. Leaf springs should be easy to replace & can be done with the boat on the trailer no problem. I’d be very careful about the condition of the rest of the trailer though. Spring could just be the tip of he ice berg.

4. Carpet & upholstery are cosmetic & easy to see. I’d be concerned with what other aspects of the boat were also neglected too. With a boat that old your likely to have rot in the stringers, floor & transom which are very pricey/extensive fixes. Cosmetic stuff is usually the first thing to get fixed while the more difficult stuff gets hidden under new cosmetics.

5. I’ll let someone else more familiar with s/n answer.

6. Could be as simple as a carb rebuild but it’ll probably be a rabbit hole of repairs. I’d plan on replacing all or most of the fuel delivery system, drain old gas, clean tank, engine tune-up, etc. at a minimum on top of the carb rebuild. I’d also require a compression test before doing anything. Again with a boat that old you can also expect rot in very difficult places to fix. Be very careful.

7. I would make a sea test mandatory for any purchase for a boat that will fall in that price range. Unless you’re ok with it turning out to be a lemon & can afford to lose that money when things don’t work out well after an untested purchase. Sellers of good condition boats shouldn’t have a problem with a sea test and/or a mechanic’s inspection. You may have to put your money up front on condition of the trial.

8. Those are he two places I’d look. BoatTrader has a lot of brokerage boats which are being sold with a commission to the dealership thus a higher price.

9. At your price range brand probably isn’t that important. But something with a Mercury drivetrain & GM motor. Don’t buy anything with an OMC drivetrain (they’re 20 yrs out of business & hard to source parts for). Avoid Mercury 470 engines & Force outboards (from reading these forums).

Maybe consider a nice aluminum V-Hull with an outboard on it? I agree that an outboard will be easier for a new boater to own/maintain. Aluminum won’t have the same rot issues & should be lighter to tow. Others can comment on what cons the aluminum boat brings.

Good luck!

 

[superbenk]

One other thing when it comes to trailers, check the tires. Trailer tires have a life span of 3-5 years & May look fine but be work out. Look for the date stamp on the sidewalls to determine how old they are. Look for dry rot & cracking on the sidewalls. Look for tread wear patterns & remember that uneven tread wear can indicate other trailer problems. Make sure the tires are proper trailer tires (not automotive) & are the correct weight rating.

Also check for all appropriate straps/chains. Plan on repacking bearings immediately & inspecting bearing races, etc.

i think there is a sticky forum post with a checklist of things to look for when purchasing a boat.

 

[tpenfield]

:welcome: to iBoats.

I agree with Ben's comments. One thing that I will add is that many fiberglass boats in your budget range may have some water retention or structural rot.

The 'skeletons' of fiberglass boats of years ago were mostly wood wrapped in fiberglass . . . some less some more. Some boat brands still use wood as their 'bones'.

Also, if not done so already, be sure to get your boater's safety course done before you get too far into it.

 

[southkogs]

I think Ben's got ya' covered quite well. I'll tack on a couple more points:

On number 2 - many marinas will have a service to move a boat like that for ya'. They'll have a trailer that will work for a 'toon and get ya' moved.

On number 9 - I agree with regards to inboard / outdrives (sterndrives), but be open to outboards as well. You don't have to favor one over the other, but a good 17' boat with an outboard is not a bad starter boat. With outboards, probably steer clear of Force and Chrysler initially.

Welcome aboard.

 

[capecodtodd]

If you have no experience with boats I second tpenfield's suggestion to take a boaters safety course. There are "rules of the road" that need to be adhered to for the safety of you, your passengers and others. There is also boating etiquette at ramps and on the water that you will need to learn.

I was just out with a friend fishing yesterday and he hauls a 18' Parker CC with his small toyota truck. I'd say you would be good up to a 18' boat but you need to check to be sure how much your truck can safely pull and more importantly stop.

The best thing you can do is get to know the prices of and what type of boat your money will buy. A 30 year old Boston Whaler may cost as much or more as a 10 year old boat that is not a BW.

$3000 is not much to buy a boat but it will get you something. The motor of course is very important and you want that to be strong. A good trailer is also a must if you are hauling back and forth to the water. I have had a few terrible trailers in my time where the boat never wanted to sit right but luckily I had a mooring at the time.
Owning a boat on a budget can be a pleasurable experience if you can do most of the work yourself but if you have to pay someone that is when it gets expensive.

I saw a funny cartoon the other day where a guy was asked what it was like owning a boat and he said go stand in a cold shower and rip up $100 bills.

Get as much boat as you can afford and be prepared to spend a bit more.

 

[badrano]

Check with your state, you may be required to take a boaters safety course in order to get a boating certificate/license in order to operate a boat. NJ requires this.

For #8, boats . com is another site to search. I found some overlap between that site and boattrader

I originally went shopping for an 18ft boat but I ended up buying a 20ft which gave me a little room to grow in to as my kids get older.

 

[Lowlysubaruguy]

Having worked for GM when the S10 sported the 2.8 my advice is to buy a big enough boat that you have to get a new tow rig before heading off to the boat launch. Your going to kill that truck soon if you buy a boat with any weight and it wont be pleasant. While my option comes from a very biased view it is not lacking in any truth. Your old PU may have many years left right up to the day you hook it up to that boat. Its tough to have a boat and nothing to tow it.

As far as your boat goes most of everything you are looking at is way more than you truck will carry for long. You might be ok with a 16 foot aluminum fishing boat with a 50HP or less but pretty much anything larger than that is to much.

 

[roscoe]

Yep, that 2.8 is a gutless dog when it comes to towing.
Been there, done that.

If it has a manual trans, and high enough gears in the rear end, it will be ok for up to 1500#.

If it has an auto trans, and something like 208 gears for good gas mileage, it will scream and cry trying to get up to speed.