New to boating

[Bryn1981]

Hello all. I recently purchased a 1977 reinell . It has an OMC 302 and out drive. I have a few questions I'm hoping to get some help with.
1. While cruising the local reservoir, the temp was running about 200. Is that normal? The engine was smoking a lot. It smelled like oil burning. Maybe a little from valve cover gaskets.
2. The balls that lock together when the out drive is down are about Halloween out is that okay?

 

[southkogs]

Operating temp should be about 160 ... maybe 180. Are you seeing signs of oil on the engine where you can see it leaking?

Not sure what the question for number 2 is, but I'm pretty positive it doesn't have much to do with halloween. Those ball gears being worn down can cause you some trouble.

Welcome aboard.

 

[Scott Danforth]

first, welcome aboard

next, why would you buy a 43 year old OMC powered boat unless it has sentimental attachment? OMC went out of business decades ago

if the ball gears are more than 1/3 worn, time for a new $200 ball gear kit. if you cant do the work yourself, expect to pay a grand if you can find a mechanic that can work on it.

 

[tpenfield]

:welcome: to iBoats . . .

Yes, Halloween is not until the Fall. Perhaps you meant to say "hollowed out"

You do realize that you bought a boat with an obsolete engine?

 

[kenny nunez]

Try to post a picture of the ball gears. I would like to see them.

 

[harringtondav]

I know, er, remember the package. Stringer drive on a Ford 302. Pa in law bought it for his family. Outstanding in it's day. 180 hp. Now, as said above, very dicey finding parts or knowledge to work on it. If you get the ball gear kit, keep it alive by making sure the drive is full down from trailer before starting the engine. Most damage was from people thinking they could use the trailer tilt as a beach approach trim up.

Edit: Took a few minutes to fully recall 44 yrs ago. That boat overheated brand new in the first few months. The thermostat completely failed, jamming shut. Maybe an easy way out for you. Nothing special about the stat. If bad, go to an auto parts store and get an off the shelf 160 degree thermostat that looks like yours.

 

[Bryn1981]

Pictures were too large to upload. It was supposed to say halfway worn out not Halloween. I did not know OMC was a thing of the past. I figured it's a 302 , like the Ford. I rebuilt my Ford a few years ago. I'm going to do a compression check. If that's good, I'm going to change thermostat and impeller. Then take it out again and see what the temperature does. How do I change impeller? I work on cars for a living. I can do just about anything mechanical.

 

[froggy1150]

Get the mfg manual. Not the aftermarket like "chiltons". plan on replacing Internal drive shafts. I think yours is electric shift. The splines strip if not greased yearly (and will strip eventually anyway). As long as they are in decent condition you could get away with changing the one in the pump. If they are worn you need to break down the upper if I remember right. It requires special grease in the spline area that does not wash out in water.

 

[tpenfield]

Parts and expertise are going to be the challenge, since Ford got out of the marine engine business 20+ years ago, and OMC went belly up in the year 2000.

See what you can do, but it may be an uphill climb.

 

[southkogs]

Your stern drive is an OMC Stringer. It's probably a hydro-mechanical shift 800, but might be an electric shift. OMC put the entire Stringer line out to pasture around 1986, and then promptly went out of business within 10 years. The Stringer is a bit finicky, and parts are getting harder to find. Many marine techs won't work on 'em, and there's a growing number of 'em who haven't even seen one.

At the same time, if you're up for owning a vintage drive that will want you to love it in the garage as much as you love it on the lake - they aren't all bad. I really liked my old electric shift for how quiet it was when operating and the immediate delivery of power when you shifted.

Just don't miss the fact that you have a vintage drive, and you'll be your best mechanic. Not like a newer drive system where there are parts and tech a-plenty. That said, find a factory manual and you can keep them going indefinitely.

 

[kenny nunez]

Which drive do you have? Does the exhaust exit through the propeller or over the top of it? 1/2 worn ball gears should be changed but you can get by for the time being as they are. There is a 99% chance that there is water in the upper gear housing with the oil.
Depending on which model you have effects how complicated the water pump change can be.

 

[Bryn1981]

Thanks for all the replys. Do you know where I can find a factory manual? The exhaust exits above the prop.

 

[southkogs]

You can find the manual HERE. You've got an electric shift model. I like it (personally), but realize you've got the worst of the worst in most people's opinion.

The impeller (water pump) is at the bottom of the upper gear case. You can change it without dropping the outdrive, but I always found it easier to remove the drive. Takes about 15 minutes on that system.

 

[kenny nunez]

Since you have a electric shift model the water pump job is a little easier. There is a water tube grommet that feeds water to the swivel bearing that is known to shrink from corrosion which pinches off the water supply. It is located in the exhaust housing and to get to it the housing has to be removed from the lower gear case, you must be very careful not to damage the shift wire. This has to be done along with the water pump replacement.
In the meantime get your hands on the service manual and read over the procedure. Do not go crashing head long into the repair or you will end up with a real headache. You should be able to handle the repair just be careful not to start breaking off any bolts if the boat has salt water use. You will need a torch to heat the areas around the various bolts. Hopefully it is a fresh water boat.

 

[froggy1150]

Mine was salt and it was tough getting apart. Soak with aerocroil, tap with hammer,heat,tap with hammer, soak, try to loosen. Repeat til you get movement. Then soak more , wiggle,soak , repeat til it comes out. Don't think force will work, it will just snap bolts. I think I did snap 2 but was able to get vice grips on what was left,,,, thank god!

 

[kenny nunez]

Be sure to to “bottom tap” all the threaded holes before reassembly and Never Seize on all the bolts. The unthreaded areas where the bolts pass through ,run a drill bit in them to clear the white build up.