New to Forum / Question

[Coho Ghost]

Just joined the forum, and as all "newbies" find, the information here is priceless. I am currently putting a transom in a 1978 model Livingston Pacific skiff. I intend to use the Nida Bond pourable poly/ceramic transom for the re-core. The infor I've obtainned here has made the job a whole lot easier and really "zipped" the learning curve.

I am very curious though; is there any kind of "electronic" devise, similar to the medical Ultrasound process, that can determine the density of a transom core or stringer. It sure could save a lot of time and money if one could determine the condition of a boat BEFORE buying it. 'Cause as you all know every used boat out there is "in perfect structural condition" according to the current owner. Even if one had to pay to have a boat tested, it would probably be cheaper in the long run. I'm trying to debunk the addage that "the cheapest boats always turn out to be the most expensive".

Anyway, hope to have the reconstruction done on my boat in a couple of weeks, and get the transom poured.

Coho Ghost,

up in Washington state

 

[oops!]

Re: New to Forum / Question

welcome to i boats !

I'm trying to debunk the addage that "the cheapest boats always turn out to be the most expensive".

well.......good luck with that

as far as the electronic instrument....yes there is.....home inspectors use a moisture meter to "peek" behind walls for moisture.....but they are expencive.

but understand....the structure of a hull is just one facet of a watercraft...there are many other systems, each as important as another....no point in buying a great hull if the motor or the upholstery is toast......each can cost as much as five grand.

there is however, another way to test a hull for water intrusion........weigh the boat !....compare it to the factory specs !

by the way.......i have been a passenger on the coho a few times...

cheers
oops

 

[pete44]

Re: New to Forum / Question

You can use the "tap" test..Like when you try to find a stud in drywall..If you hear a "thud" instead of a "tap" you got saturated wood...

Pete

 

[jonesg]

Re: New to Forum / Question

Just joined the forum, and as all "newbies" find, the information here is priceless. I am currently putting a transom in a 1978 model Livingston Pacific skiff. I intend to use the Nida Bond pourable poly/ceramic transom for the re-core. The infor I've obtainned here has made the job a whole lot easier and really "zipped" the learning curve.

I am very curious though; is there any kind of "electronic" devise, similar to the medical Ultrasound process, that can determine the density of a transom core or stringer. It sure could save a lot of time and money if one could determine the condition of a boat BEFORE buying it. 'Cause as you all know every used boat out there is "in perfect structural condition" according to the current owner. Even if one had to pay to have a boat tested, it would probably be cheaper in the long run. I'm trying to debunk the addage that "the cheapest boats always turn out to be the most expensive".

Anyway, hope to have the reconstruction done on my boat in a couple of weeks, and get the transom poured.

Coho Ghost,

up in Washington state

Harbor freight sells moisture meters, I'm sure they work as everything else they sell.

I figure a 20-30 yr old hull has wet substructure, I don't care what the owner says. Unless they already replaced the transom its wet until proven dry. We knew mine was shot because it had reinforcement plates all over the transom. But the good news is you can buy a very good hull for very cheap money, the repair isn't difficult or expensive with a chainsaw and nidacore. A boatyard would charge big bux to fix it though.

Take photos when you do the pour, its half the price I paid for seacast.