New to Volvo family

[Lou C]

Yes that’s it

 

[tfret]

these? link

Ok got it. I just can’t understand why I can’t get pressurized water up to the impeller. Even if I squeeze the muffs together by hand. It’s almost as if there is a valve in the circuit that doesn’t open until the key is on or something. ??

 

[ESGWheel]

It’s almost as if there is a valve in the circuit that doesn’t open until the key is on or something. ??

That does not exist.

But here is an off the wall thought: I have seen hoses with internal delamination before. Like a long time ago. Possible that is an issue? Other than stripping it down, here is another off the wall thought: scope it. Here is a link to a WiFi scope that connects to your smart phone. For 30 bucks cannot go wrong (I have personally used this model this for a variety of things and very happy with it > easy to set up and use). Pull the input hose to the raw water pump and scope it back to the sterndrive. Unsure if it will work but heck, seems like there is something funky going on so do some funky things….

 

[Lou C]

There are a few places where you can have a loss of water pressure or a clog:
Loss of pressure:
Rotted rubber water tube grommets inside drive
Plastic hose fitting in the bell housing can crack
Clog:
Crud sucked up into the cooling system can clog the water intake holes in the lower unit and the power steering cooler on the back of the engine

 

[tfret]

That does not exist.

But here is an off the wall thought: I have seen hoses with internal delamination before. Like a long time ago. Possible that is an issue? Other than stripping it down, here is another off the wall thought: scope it. Here is a link to a WiFi scope that connects to your smart phone. For 30 bucks cannot go wrong (I have personally used this model this for a variety of things and very happy with it > easy to set up and use). Pull the input hose to the raw water pump and scope it back to the sterndrive. Unsure if it will work but heck, seems like there is something funky going on so do some funky things….

But I don’t have any cooling issues.

 

[tfret]

There are a few places where you can have a loss of water pressure or a clog:
Loss of pressure:
Rotted rubber water tube grommets inside drive
Plastic hose fitting in the bell housing can crack
Clog:
Crud sucked up into the cooling system can clog the water intake holes in the lower unit and the power steering cooler on the back of the engine

But I have no cooling issues.

 

[ESGWheel]

Oh, I thought you have no cooling issues with boat in water but on muffs you do (no water getting to impeller).

 

[tfret]

Oh, I thought you have no cooling issues with boat in water but on muffs you do (no water getting to impeller).

I’m afraid to run it on muffs out of the water. But if it were clogged somewhere wouldn’t I have cooling problems in the water?

 

[ESGWheel]

I will try to help but may be at the limit of my expertise in this area. I think the following are true statements, if not please correct where needed.

1. The boat runs fine in the water > no overheating or any cooling issues.
2. The boat on the trailer will idle fine using the Blue Cap flush connection, no overhearing or any cooling issues.
3. When using the muffs, due to the excessive leak by of the muffs, there was concern that the muffs were not sealing so did not run the engine. With more clamping force on the muffs to get them to seal, still had excessive leaking such that suspected something clogged or a valve not open. Did not run the engine. Instead, based on some suggestions, took off the feed hose to the Raw Water Pump, hooked up the muffs and no water coming out of that hose. What the heck? Still did not run the engine on the muffs and instead seeking advice on why no water seen coming out of this disconnected hose when it should be pouring out.

Are the above 3 statements correct?

 

[tfret]

Ok, I’ve replaced my serpentine belt, tensioner, idler, water pump impeller, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel pressure regulator, replaced the gimbal bearing, and both outdrive bellows. Oh and built a stand for the outdrive. So I’m learning my way around this Volvo 5.0GXi SX-A. But one thing I can’t figure out is where the heck the trim pump and reservoir is. Can come help me out?

 

[tfret]

I have posted what I have learned to date (link). It started off as a request for the upper seal of the distributor. Once my investigation is complete I’ll post the finding under a new post.

For the muffs > it seems that most shy away from using them on the VPs. There should be on your engine a ‘flush hose connection’. Looks like the pic below. This hose Y’s into the same line from your sterndrive but right next to the Raw Water Pump. Admittedly I was reluctant to use it at first thinking perhaps only for rising, not running. But I have used it for years to run the engine when I need to on the trailer. Due to a limited supply I do not run it a above 2000 RPM for any length of time.

View attachment 398571

The problem I have using the flush hose connection is that water pours out the intakes on the drive. It wastes a lot of water which can be a problem when running well water. Surely there are a set of muffs that work well with a SX A drive. The 30-50 psi pressure from the hose is more that the static pressure of the drive idling in the lake. The muffs just need a good seal.

 

[ESGWheel]

The problem I have using the flush hose connection is that water pours out the intakes on the drive. It wastes a lot of water which can be a problem when running well water.

Interesting. I am not on a well, so have not paid attention before. However, when the hose is first turned on (prior to engine start) it flows heavily out the intakes. But once running, I do not recall a lot of water (if any) coming out the intakes. I’ll have to look next time I am running it using the Blue Cap flush connection.

 

[Scott06]

Ok, I’ve replaced my serpentine belt, tensioner, idler, water pump impeller, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel pressure regulator, replaced the gimbal bearing, and both outdrive bellows. Oh and built a stand for the outdrive. So I’m learning my way around this Volvo 5.0GXi SX-A. But one thing I can’t figure out is where the heck the trim pump and reservoir is. Can come help me out?

I believe on the Volvos it is in the transom housing outside the hull.

 

[tfret]

Interesting. I am not on a well, so have not paid attention before. However, when the hose is first turned on (prior to engine start) it flows heavily out the intakes. But once running, I do not recall a lot of water (if any) coming out the intakes. I’ll have to look next time I am running it using the Blue Cap flush connection.

It wouldn’t be so bad if I had a way to block off the intakes. I’ve tried using the muffs just the hold the water in but it leaks right past them. Running for an extended time can starve the well we’re on.

 

[ESGWheel]

I do not recall if you are also having an issue running on the muffs (ie they do not seal up or some such) and would prefer to run on the flush connection but cannot due to the well. If so, here is an idea > experiment with pinching off the intake hose. They make pliers specifically for this. Need to see if they make a set big enough. Also be sensitive to damaging the hose. I have done this on smaller hoses with no issue but not on one so large so I am unsure if it will work. The area to do it is marked with a red line. If u can run on muffs and not dry out the well, then never mind…

 

[Scott Danforth]

. Surely there are a set of muffs that work well with a SX A drive. The 30-50 psi pressure from the hose is more that the static pressure of the drive idling in the lake. The muffs just need a good seal.

The issue is that idling in the water, the SWL is at least 8" above the crank centerline of the motor and the impeller is flooded

On hoses and using muffs, you need more than 30-50 psi to get the water to the impeller.

Use duct tape if needed

 

[tfret]

I do not recall if you are also having an issue running on the muffs (ie they do not seal up or some such) and would prefer to run on the flush connection but cannot due to the well. If so, here is an idea > experiment with pinching off the intake hose. They make pliers specifically for this. Need to see if they make a set big enough. Also be sensitive to damaging the hose. I have done this on smaller hoses with no issue but not on one so large so I am unsure if it will work. The area to do it is marked with a red line. If u can run on muffs and not dry out the well, then never mind…

View attachment 407844


View attachment 407845

Ah thats a good idea. That way I’m only putting water to the engine. I may try this and report back. Thanks!

 

[tfret]

The issue is that idling in the water, the SWL is at least 8" above the crank centerline of the motor and the impeller is flooded

On hoses and using muffs, you need more than 30-50 psi to get the water to the impeller.

Use duct tape if needed

Yes I think the muffs would work just fine if they would seal better. The problem is the muffs stop holding the water in before the water column can make it to the impeller. It all dumps dumps on the ground.

 

[Scott Danforth]

You want a spray out the muffs about 10 ft. You want to supply 7-10 GPM minimum to the muffs

I use a 1" hose and 80psi (used to be 110 psi, until the county fixed the substation)