NO GAS TO CARB 1984 DT140

[BARRONSFC]

I HAVE 1984 SUSUKI DT 140 THAT HAS NOT BEEN RUN SINCE LAST SUMMER, IT RAN GREAT. IT WAS PUT AWAY WITH A FULL TANK OF GAS , NO FUEL ADDITIVE. NOW I CANT GET IT TO START, IT WILL FIRE IF I SPRAY STARTING FULID IN THE CARBS. I CHECKED THE FUEL LINES AND IT GETTING GAS PAST FUEL FILTER,PRIMER BULB, WATER SEPTARTOR AND OUT TOWARDS CARBS. HOW DO I SEE IF GAS IS GOING INTO CARBS? AND HOW DO I CHECK FUEL PUMP? <br /><br />THANKS BARRONSFC

 

[jim dozier]

Re: NO GAS TO CARB 1984 DT140

If it starts with ether or fuel sprayed into the carbs, its probably a fuel issue. Have you tried choking the engine manually. Sometimes the electric choke doesn't work or close the butterflies all the way. Does it run once you crank it up on ether or does it die? More than likely the carbs have gummed up and will need to be cleaned and rebuilt. The floats may be stuck shut. It happens when they sit.

 

[FHARVELL]

Re: NO GAS TO CARB 1984 DT140

Your talking about fuel jets in the carburetor (there are usually at least 2, idle and highspeed) not to mention the feed to the fuel bowl that have a diameter smaller than the size of a pin. When gas sits, it turns to Lacquer (Varnish) and becomes very gummy, six months is long enough for something like this to occur. In more sever cases, it even hardens. I would definitely suspect gummed-up carbs. Although removing these for cleaning appears daunting, It's not really all that difficult. Simply unbolt the carbs and remove the Fuel bowl. You usually see brownish residue if the gas has gone bad but this is not a tale-tell sign. Next remove the float by taking something small enough to push the float pin out. The needle valve should come out with the float, just pay special attention as to how it attaches to the float for re-assembly. Next remove the jets (which is normally done with a flat bladed screwdriver). Just about any thing that looks like it can be removed from the carb, should be removed for cleaning. Now you’re ready to clean the carb. Be sure the use plenty of Carburetor Cleaner (it has to be carb cleaner, anything else will strip the special coating from the carbs and ruin them) and spray into every orifice, and any part removed from the carb. You should see spray going into one hole and out another when the passageways are clean, though it's normally just the jet that gets clogged. Hold the jet up to the light to inspect for clogging then clean as necessary. Reassemble and you’re ready to go. You usually will not need to replace any gaskets, as most are rubber. Just be sure not to destroy any gaskets or misplace any parts in the process. These parts are hard to come by individually without buying and entire rebuild kit. Also be SURE not to CHANGE any of the linkage ADJUSTMENTS, they normally just snap on and off. Also be careful that you do not break or crack and fuel lines during the process. It's better to cut the plastic ties and put new ones on when your done. Make sure you check for any fuel leaks once you get the motor running. You also might consider opening a fuel line AFTER the fuel pump to check to see if you have fuel flow there. just squeeze the bulb, The float and needle valve in the fuel bowl is what cuts the fuel off. If this seems to complex - you need to take it to the shop.