No power to ignition.........?

[danhenke]

So, I have recently had the cylinder head replaced after some unfortunate freeze damage on my Bayliner BR 185 (2010), with the 3.0L 135. Got it out the second time, ran like a top. Now is where the fun begins.

Still being a basket case about the motor repair, we made some short runs near the launch, got her on plane, stopped, checked for water in the oil, all is good, got on plane again, stopped, went to check the oil, water is coming from block drain fitting, easy fix, quick connect snapped right back in, ran pump, bilge dry no more water leaking. Got her on plane again, pulled back on throttle...... DEAD! Lost all ignition power, horn, trim etc, all work, but no alarm when key is turned, nothing. Chased fuses for a bit, but nothing under the helm. Accepted a tow back to the ramp by a nice family.

Did some research here on the forum, the issue, I believe it's the 90 amp fuse on the starter, but haven't tested it yet to be sure, but pretty positive as it seems to be a common problem.

If the neutral safety (Man overboard switch), or shift in wrong position, will there be no ignition power, or does it allow power, but no turnover? Asking so I can maybe isolate that because it did pop when I pulled back on the throttle to neutral, and I know that stuff was disconnected when the head was replaced, but I can't wrap my mind around it because it shouldn't die unless that switch is bad, and it was just its time to go (will test that as well).

My question now is, is there a common issue with these motors, that cause a short big enough to pop that fuse? I don't want to drop a $25 fuse in there just to blow it again. I figure the water from the hose maybe caused a short, but that was sometime later, maybe 10 mins. I have torqued my battery terminals down again, and I will chase wire for a bit to see if something rubbed the insulation off one of those big wires.

Help me NOT waste a $25 fuse please....... What's some experience you guys might have? Long read, thanks.

Dan

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

Have you traced the grounds -- I ask as a loose ground wire from the helm will cause similar issues -- The power from the helm is grounded at the motor mounts of the v8's -- not sure about 3.0 but suspect that's true also.



If you have access to a DVM check for a 12 volt drop across the fuse // A good fuse will not show any DC voltage from 1 side to the other with power on but will show 12 volts across it if open.

 

[danhenke]

Have you traced the grounds -- I ask as a loose ground wire from the helm will cause similar issues -- The power from the helm is grounded at the motor mounts of the v8's -- not sure about 3.0 but suspect that's true also.



If you have access to a DVM check for a 12 volt drop across the fuse // A good fuse will not show any DC voltage from 1 side to the other with power on but will show 12 volts across it if open.

That's good advice, before I go insane running every wire. A disconnected ground never crossed my mind.

Thanks

 

[danhenke]

I do t want to close this thread, but...... I found the short in my system.

First though, I want to show my steps, tested voltage at battery, 12.4...... then voltage at 90 amp starter fuse befor and after, 12.4, then voltage in and out of the breaker, 12.4. Finally red/purple wire at key switch. STOP! Nothing. Went back to engine harness cannon plug, voltage at pin 6, 12.4.

I read a few few posts about there being weatherproof mini blade fuses on the harness, popped both open, viola! 15 amp fuse in there was open. Replaced fuse, problem solved.

noninjust have to isolate the short that caused that fuse to pop, if any. I’ll try to post photos, says my files are too large.

dan

 

[danhenke]

Gonna re-open this thread in hopes I can help someone.

Out on in the lake yesterday, every time the throttle went to neutral, pop went that fuse. No big whoop, just went through 5 fuses, and had a great day. Cleaned boat up, back on side of house.

today, I looked over the schematics, and interrupt wiring as it continued to happen when placed in neutral, grabbed the multimeter and diagrams and prepared for war!

first I tested the interrupt switch, all good, then powered up, turned on key, depressed interrupt...... POP, fuse blown. Schematic led me to the back of alternator from interrupt, all good, ignition coil to interrupt, nope, zero continuity. Here’s where it was found. When the head was replaced last month, it’s obvious that the tech or helper mashed that plug into the coil and bent the pins at the coil, and plug all to hell, grounding that circuit somewhere and creating a short.

i straightened all the bent pins with a jewelers screwdriver, and the sockets in the plug. Inserted plug, replaced fuse, battery on, key on, engaged interrupt switch, no pop, problem solved!!!!! Yay me!

sorry for the long read, hoping this will help someone instead of chasing wires for nicks and scrapes.

 

[danhenke]

Oh, had a prop strike on a damn log yesterday too! Fractured the prop, outdrive is gone though, which gave me the opportunity to order a new solas rubex 14.5”-17P 4 blade! Lol

 

[danhenke]

Fashion photo shoot of my mangled coil plug wiring that created a short every time the boat was shifted to neutral.

leatned a lesson not to take for granted that a skinned wire is always the culprit. Bless my old man for teaching me to read a schematic and use a DVM!