No power to motor

[Txzuki523]

Hello, I have lost power to my 1998 johnson 150 ficht motor. No trim, and wont try and crank at all. In the power distribution panel, i found a blown 10 amp fuse. I tried replacing it but it blows instantly. I already un hooked all electrical but the main leads to motor, and tried replacing fuse still blew. I turn the key and nothing happens. I do have power to solenoid, but nothing after. Has anybody ran into this problem? Or have a fuse diagram for the distribution panel? Thanks

 

[boobie]

They did have problems with that PDP as far as soldered connections. I'd start there.

 

[GA_Boater]

The solenoid is connected directly to the battery, the large red wire. So it always has power.


Have you done any electrical work, disconnect the battery, etc.?

 

[Txzuki523]

The distribution panel on the motor. No work has been done. Just used the boat a few days ago.

 

[Chris1956]

Look for melted wires in the boat and/or motor harness.

 

[Crosbyman]

see pict of a 2002 PDPsimilar to yours presumably.. the hot +12v from the selenoid post feeds the power relays for the T&T and then.....shares the +12v to a fuse which in turn feeds the EMM and start key

the load blowing the fuse likely external and comes from the EMM ….if not a bad and unlikely (shorted to ground) start key ...check it check that PDP closely

disconnect power to the EMM

hope this helps as I do not have a diag of a 1998 PDP

if you search the web you will also find info cold soldered / cracked joints behind the PDP where +12v feeds in

easy fix apparently…. you need to resolder the joint

 

[Txzuki523]

According to your diagram, the fuse associated to the fuel module and key switch is the one that is blown. Thank you gives me somewhere to start.

 

[Crosbyman]

see JERRYB's last comment
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/003207.html

and this
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=11460

 

[Scott Danforth]

pretty sure trim is wired directly to the battery with a separate cable

having both motor side and trim dead would indicate issue at or near the battery.

check the connections

 

[Crosbyman]

obviously some kind of hard failure but if the fuse blows excess current is drawn …. something is loose and grounded or EMM filtering is shorted out ...see diag with references to " filtering…"


funny thing…even if the fuse is OUT seems that T&T should work ??? so something is open..cracked,, loose somewhere

I would use a small rubber hammer on the PDP while trimming to see if some connection is flaky

 

[Crosbyman]

see attached link read all posts and the one with green smilies…

https://forums.iboats.com/search?r=170970393&p=1

 

[Crosbyman]

on the modern ETECs they way I understand it…+12v is feed to the EMM and more or less stabilized in a big fat capacitor
which has been known to go bad.. :-( but can be replaced if one knows his way around electrical things

.this battery +12v keeps the brains in the MM working/thinking till AC juice is rectified and more or less takes over the battery 12v duties

this second drawing refers to this and anything flaky in the EMM would blow the fuse . First test would be to is connect +12v to the EMM and pop in a new fuse to see if it blows if it blows … find the shorting load …. aka ground ..!


now why the T&T does not work is a bit of a funny one ...


update… btw silly question but which fuse in the PDP is blowing :-( … should have asked this one before anything
(see diagram….)

 

[Txzuki523]

Fuse B is the only one that blows.

 

[Crosbyman]

ok fused B+ to switch cct going out B wire at the bottom of the pdp

did you hunt down anything external to the PDP or… did you inspect the wiring etc.…

if you remove the fuse one side should show a good +12

measure the resistance to ground on the other fuse holder pin

what R value do you see

while measuring the R value steady…... tap around look for suddden swings


assuming the fuse blows at 10 amps or a bit more … the R value will be very low maybe 1.2 ohms or… less

the fuse blowing indicates to low of a load on the +12v supplied

good luck this is all I can suggest

 

[Txzuki523]

Ok i unplugged the main wire harness that goes up front to the console so i could trace out every wire, iv been tracing wires out to every component on this dang boat lol. While i had that harness unplugged i (just out of curiosity) put a new fuse in while the harness was unplugged and it didnt blow. Now i have power back to starter and power back to trim on motor. Trim on shifter still doesnt work. So i have a bad wire or something going on in that harness or components. I am currently going through all that now.

 

[Crosbyman]

great !! but….it hints that the issue is intermittent … better find it ….. look for flex points along all the wiring

if the shifter trim is out .. just have somebody active the trim while you poke , twist or nudge all the wiring to see if you get a sudden reaction.... or a blown fuse again

inspect all connection points for damages, frayed wires etc…

I think you will find it …. something is possibly shorted or open past the harness or…. in the harness junction





good luck

 

[Txzuki523]

I think I got it. It was in the shifter trim. Bad burnt connection in the handle if the shifter. I traced the wires found no other visual issues. Fuse is still good and motor runs fine. Gonna replace the wire and trim switch in the shifter. Hopefully thats all that was wrong. Thanx crosbyman for all the help and guidance.

 

[Crosbyman]

I am really glad it worked out. Maybe one last suggestion...

see if that burnt connection was damaged by just oxydation.if possible .or whatever caused it to overheat in the first place
just in case it creeps up again.

if it does the " second time around" :second: will be a lot easier to fix

:closed_2: :welcome: