no response from trim control

[pilldok]

Recently experienced a dead battery with the engine trimmed all the way up blocking access! With forum help I found a manual bypass screw to manually drop engine. I sucessfully installed battery and made SURE all connections were made. Engine started and runs great but engine will not trim up or down regardless of which control I use(cowl or gearselector). I can here a solenoid click but no movement occurs. Here are my suspicions. I have no trailer so the manual bypass screw was turned as the boat sat in the water(the screw was below water line). Did I introduce water into the pump and damage it?<br />Also, before I knew about the bypass I was attemping to trim down while connected to a portable jumper-battery supply. Could I have ruined a solenoid? I have checked all fuses with voltmeter.

 

[timmathis]

Re: no response from trim control

I no expert but I had the same problem when I bought my boat. When I hit the trim butten it would click and not move. Somebody told me to take a screwdriver and with the handle to tap on the solenoid when we hit the button. and it started working. good luck. <br />Also if you need parts there is A good supply of trim stuff just up the road from you in Central they have A pendelton phone# it"s hwy 88 boatyard. they can help.if need be.<br />Tim

 

[pilldok]

Re: no response from trim control

Thanks Tim! Did this only occur this one time and now works fine? I plan to take it to hartwell marina ( can get there by water ) in morning but will try this first. I noticed that there were 3 solonoids under cowl right behind the trim buttons on side of engine. Do all three control trim? Only one is clicking, the one most foward.

 

[dynapac]

Re: no response from trim control

Solenoids should be for start, power trim/tilt (up), power trim/tilt (down) You should have 11-13 volts D.C. on the small terminals for the countrol voltage. You can connect a lead from your battery to whichever side of the solendoid powers the pump (large terminals). That should actuate pump. If the jumper battery supply was sending 12 volts....doubt you damaged it. With hydraulics, oil is used instead of water for oil maintains an acceptable range of viscosity for a given range of operating temperature (freezing to boiling). <br /><br />Oil displaced any water trying to enter into the bleed port. I wouldn't worry about water. The amount of fluid you drained to let the piston down was minimal. Check your resevoir for fluid level.<br /><br />Sidebar: Water will work; ergo "hydraulics", but it tends to cause more harm than good - corrosion, boils and freezes.<br /><br />Clicking - coil is engaging (control power present) but may not be closing the cirquit or the contacts aren't closing. If pump actuates by supplying power to it directly, then trade the solenoids and see if you have a bad one.