No Spark 70hp Evinrude

[TwoRivers]

Have a no spark on any cylinder E70TLCEM.
Checking out the stator:
No ohm reading between brown wires.
450 ohm reading between orange wires.
Should I assume stator is bad?

Checking out timer base:
11 ohm between white and blue
11 ohm between white and purple
No ohm reading between white and green.
Should I assume timer base is bad?

Checked wiring for opens between plugs and components , none found.

Could somebody please teach me how to post (resize) pictures?

thanks

 

[Joe Reeves]

You state "Brown Wires"...... I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me BUT the wires that supply power to the powerpack capacitor are usually one "Brown" wire and one "Brown/Yellow" wire.

If you have that ohm meter set on high ohms on the proper wires that supply voltage to the pack's capacitor... and you get NO reading (open circuit)... then yes, I'd agree that the stator is bad.

However.... Before you start replacing parts, do this simple test... remove spark plugs, rig up your spark tester, hopefully one whereas the spark can jump a 7/16" air gap. Remove the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) from the ignition switch or the powerpack, whichever is easier... Now, crank the engine over.

If you have spark with that wire disconnected but no spark with it connected, the ignition switch is shorted, in which case, replace it.

Let us know what you find.

 

[TwoRivers]

Thanks Joe,
You're correct the wires are brown and brown yellow.
Right now the stator and timer base are off the motor.
I wanted to check the wiring for breaks between the plug and the stator.
No breaks.
No breaks between the plug and the timer base either.

I removed the black / yellow wire from the switch before taking things apart and had no spark with a known good battery.

Also had no dva readings from the stator. Zero.
Was thinking that maybe my meter was bad?
Then I did the ohm tests and the circuit seems to be open which would explain the zero dva readings?

What do you think about the ohm readings from the timer base?

thanks again
rob

 

[Joe Reeves]

The "Timer-Base" question.... If memory serves me right, I think the ohm reading on all three timing sensors (blue, purple, green) are supposed to read via a ohm meter 17.5 ohms.... you're getting only 11.0 on the purple & blue and zero on the green?

I forget what cylinder fires with the green wire sensor but there's no way that cylinder would ever fire with that open circuit.

Did you just come by this engine recently, if so I'd suspect that someone used it for a parts engine and installed their old faulty parts on it... very unusual to have a faulty stator and timer-base both, especially with open circuits,

If new to you.... I'd suggest a compression test before going any further.

 

[TwoRivers]

Thanks Joe,
I've had this motor for a few years.
My neighbor gave me the motor and a leaky boat after he bought a new boat.
He bought the boat and this motor new and was the only owner.
He said that sometimes it would start and run and other times it wouldn't start or shut off while running.
When I first got it I did a compression test.
100 across all three cylinders. I was able to get it started and it started and ran well on the muffs.
Then I put it in my basement where it's been sitting for several years taking up room.
Decided this Spring to see if I could get it started.
But no luck.
Deciding how far to go with it.
Motor is clean and previous owner put mega hours on it but always had it shop maintained and never abused it.


I

 

[F_R]

My opinion is with the brown wires open circuit, it ain't going to run. One thing at a time, replace the stator and see what happens. I predict the sensors are ok.

 

[TwoRivers]

Thanks for the response F_R.
Wish I knew how to post pictures?
There is a black plastic ring around the base of the timer just under the metal ring.
Is it supposed to be solid?
Mine is split and I don't know if it broke or is supposed to be that way?
If broken would that affect anything?
What do you make of the Ohm readings on the timer base wires?

 

[TwoRivers]

The part I thought might be broken is the timer base retainer.
Pulled up a diagram of the ignition system and the retainer is split like mine.
So at least that part is OK.

 

[TwoRivers]

"My opinion is with the brown wires open circuit, it ain't going to run. One thing at a time, replace the stator and see what happens. I predict the sensors are ok." F_R

Prediction verified!

Put the old stator, timing base and flywheel back onto non starting motor.
Did a compression test that read 115 on each of the three cylinders.
Figured with good compression it was worth putting some money into it?
Then I replaced the stator with an new one from CDI.
Checked and had spark on all three cylinders.
Hooked up the fuel line and after a little fiddling with the primer solenoid.
It fired up, ran and idled smoothly on the muffs.
Happy and thankful to all.
rob​

 

[Joe Reeves]

We knew you could do it!

 

[TwoRivers]

We did it.
Thanks again.