I did the following and have no power to the white/red wire
#1 - Connect your voltmeter neg. lead to the engine ground and pos. lead to the white/red wire terminal at the dist. It should read 12 volts.
#2 - If 12 volts is present, remove the coil spark wire from the distributor and connect it to a spark gap tester to ground. Remove the white/green lead from the dist. terminal. Turn the ign. key to on and strike the white/green lead to ground. If there is spark, replace the ignition sensor in the dist.
#3 - If there is no spark, substitute a new coil and repeat test #2. Now if you get spark, install a new coil. NO SPARK, replace ign. amp.
#4 - In #2, if there is No voltage present, disconnect the white/red wire and check it again for 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, replace the ignition sensor inside the dist. cap. If no 12 volts present w/it disconnected--ignition amplifier is shot and must be replaced.
Is there anything else I can check before laying out the big money for a replacement module?
I had it running on muffs. I gave it throttle by the controls and it sputtered and stalled. I assumed it was a fuel issue since I was running low on gas. I put some in the tank and primed the bowl. Nothing. I found the no spark situation and ran that test.
Another thing worth mentioning is the volt meter in dash appears to wiggle back and forth slightly when running?
Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.
#1 - Connect your voltmeter neg. lead to the engine ground and pos. lead to the white/red wire terminal at the dist. It should read 12 volts.
#2 - If 12 volts is present, remove the coil spark wire from the distributor and connect it to a spark gap tester to ground. Remove the white/green lead from the dist. terminal. Turn the ign. key to on and strike the white/green lead to ground. If there is spark, replace the ignition sensor in the dist.
#3 - If there is no spark, substitute a new coil and repeat test #2. Now if you get spark, install a new coil. NO SPARK, replace ign. amp.
#4 - In #2, if there is No voltage present, disconnect the white/red wire and check it again for 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, replace the ignition sensor inside the dist. cap. If no 12 volts present w/it disconnected--ignition amplifier is shot and must be replaced.
Is there anything else I can check before laying out the big money for a replacement module?
I had it running on muffs. I gave it throttle by the controls and it sputtered and stalled. I assumed it was a fuel issue since I was running low on gas. I put some in the tank and primed the bowl. Nothing. I found the no spark situation and ran that test.
Another thing worth mentioning is the volt meter in dash appears to wiggle back and forth slightly when running?
Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited:
