NyloBoard for decking and stringers

[Coho Ghost]

I was in a marine repair shop a day ago, and got to chatting with the owner on the condition of "old" fiberglass boats and restoring them. He told me about, and showed me, a sample of a product called nylo sheet. It looks like the premier stuff for restoring a deck. The company's website states it is totally impervious to water and is compatible with commonly use marine resins, and is being currently use by the marine industry. It comes in 4"x8" sheets in 1/2" 5/8" and 3/4" thicknesses. I'm not sure if it could be used for stringers, but a call the the manufacturer could clear that up. The down side is IT IS EXPENSIVE, around $200.00 a sheet for 3/4". I guess if one wanted to really go first class, this would be the stuff. Sooooo...has anyone out there tried this stuff? It appears to be the answer to totally eliminating wood sub-sturcture and the subsquent rot problems that eventually happen.

FWIW

Coho Ghost

 

[jigngrub]

Here's CCA marine grade plywood with a lifetime warranty for half that price:

http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collecti...-grade-plywood

Guaranteed not to rot even if it gets wet.

 

[Coho Ghost]

Hey Guys,

Sorry about the double post. The Forum works a little different than my last post about 1 1/2 years ago.

Coho Ghost

 

[tpenfield]

I just checked the product information . . . primarily a home decking product that has some application in the marine industry. It says that it is made from re-cycled carpet fiber . . . The product info states that it is recommended for bulkheads, flooring, but does not specifcally say 'stringers'. I would imagine that it could be used as a core for stringers, but you would probably want to fully glass for strength. So, probably not a 1 for 1 replacement of wood.

It is also a little vague on the compatibility/adhesion with marine resins :noidea: So that would be a good thing to test.

If someone were to use it on a restoration project, I would think that the best thing to do would be to use it on the bulkheads and maybe even the transom. That typically is where the water absorption starts . . . right along the keel. The bulkheads and transom 'wick' the water up and spread it to the stringers. If you used nylosheet in those areas, the water absorption process would not get started.

Also it would be awesome for decking and related stiffeners, since those areas absorb water as well.

 

[jbcurt00]

IMO, going up in thickness to 3/4" plywood, using the boat safe PT wood Jig posted, or any of the other man-made materials, is extra weight & expense that is mostly un-necessary if you'd take care of your stuff.....

That space age honeycomb stuff someone used on an Aussie resto was interesting & lightweight, but like many things, it too was expensive. Plus using it is not as straight forward & 'simple' as typical 1/2"~5/8" ACX plywood laminated w/ poly resin & glass.........

I do find it interesting that so many of the boat rehabs that involve coloring outside the lines (like that honeycomb Aussie build) have no in use or longevity reporting back 1 or 2 seasons later.........

 

[Woodonglass]

This topic is discussed so much here on the forum!!! I understand NOT wanting to have to do the work again but what we have to understand is we are going to be doing the work at a much better level than the original mfg did back in the day and we will more than likely be caring for and maintaining the boat much better than it was before. After doing all this hard work, I suspect most of these boats will get "Babied" for quite some time. I KNOW mine does. The mfg's have mostly gone to synthetic materials in building their boats but...Their prices reflect that today!!!
For me, and again this is just me talking, using ext. plywood or marine grade, or MDO, properly prepping it and properly applying resin and glass to it and then properly installing it in the boat followed up with proper care and maintenance of the boat will yield a product that will last 40+ years. I'm pretty sure that's longer than most of us will own the boat and I'm also sure that if the care and maintenance IS good it will last LONGER than 40+ years. I just don't see the reason for using the exotic materials for a DIY restoration.

I just don't.

 

[jigngrub]

IMO, going up in thickness to 3/4" plywood, using the boat safe PT wood Jig posted, or any of the other man-made materials, is extra weight & expense that is mostly un-necessary if you'd take care of your stuff.....

That space age honeycomb stuff someone used on an Aussie resto was interesting & lightweight, but like many things, it too was expensive. Plus using it is not as straight forward & 'simple' as typical 1/2"~5/8" ACX plywood laminated w/ poly resin & glass.........

I do find it interesting that so many of the boat rehabs that involve coloring outside the lines (like that honeycomb Aussie build) have no in use or longevity reporting back 1 or 2 seasons later.........

For me, the kiln dried CCA plywood is extra insurance and is worth the price difference just for that... but it's also a better grade plywood with more plies and fewer if any voids. It is available in 1/2" thickness, but not from the site I posted.

The increased weight with 3/4" plywood is negligible, 3/4" is 25 lbs. heavier per sheet than 1/2" and 12.5 lbs. heavier than 5/8"... and how much did that rotten old boat you're fixing up weigh before you started gutting out the saturated plywood and waterlogged foam? A heck of a lot more than the difference between a few sheets of 3/4" and 1/2" plywood I'll bet.

3/4" plywood isn't for all builds (especially small boats), but it's all about the strength for me. I'd rather have a rock solid build than a bouncy springy build. The 3/4" is also a more secure material for fastening accessories to, like seating cleats and other thing. Fasteners have a tendency to strip out or be pulled out of 1/2" plywood. You get a good healthy bite when fastening to 3/4".


I don't have much confidence in the space-age synthetics over plywood and surely don't think they're worth the price.

That Aussie crab boat was an interesting build to watch, but I'll bet if the truth is to be known that deck is like a trampoline.

 

[jbcurt00]

Yep ^^^ that's why I said MOSTLY un-necessary....

 

[benjh1028]

Guess I'm either in the minority or still gun shy as I went full synthetic (Coosa board and Nida Bond) and couldn't be happier. I paid TWICE to have the stringers/floor replaced (problem was they never removed the wet foam). Third time I did it myself, and though I think I did an awesome job - definitely better than factory - the peace of mind I get from knowing it physically can never rot again was worth the extra $200 in materials.

 

[jigngrub]

Guess I'm either in the minority or still gun shy as I went full synthetic (Coosa board and Nida Bond) and couldn't be happier. I paid TWICE to have the stringers/floor replaced (problem was they never removed the wet foam). Third time I did it myself, and though I think I did an awesome job - definitely better than factory - the peace of mind I get from knowing it physically can never rot again was worth the extra $200 in materials.

I can't envision replacing stringers without removing the wet foam... I just can't see it. I can see a rip-off happening where they told you they replaced the stringers and didn't do it though.

... and only $200 extra to go all composite, that must be an itty bitty little ol' boat.

 

[Woodonglass]

Current Coosa Board costs....4x8 sheet 3/4" $275 ---Aruaco Ext Grade Plywood 4x8 3/4" $60
Resin and glass needed to make it impervious to water $85
Total=$145
Costs difference $130
Quantities needed for stringers and deck 3-4 sheets.
Total costs difference Possibly $520

Nida Core Pourable transoms typically run around $300 for the material not counting what's needed to prepare for the pour so let's just say a total of $350
Plywood transom 2 sheets of 3/4" plywod $120
Resin and Glass needed for installation $150
Total=$270
Difference $80

For Transoms, It might make sense to go with the NidaCore. For Decks and Stringers using the Coosa Board, I'm still not getting it especially as I stated before, the plywood IF done properly, will last for 40+ years. I guess If you plan on leaving your boat exposed to the elements then the composites make a lot of sense.

 

[benjh1028]

I can't envision replacing stringers without removing the wet foam... I just can't see it. I can see a rip-off happening where they told you they replaced the stringers and didn't do it though.
... and only $200 extra to go all composite, that must be an itty bitty little ol' boat.

Yeah, I was told "stringers are good and foam is dry". At the time I didn't know better. It's a shame people can't be trusted.

I got the Coosa Board local for $150/sheet. It's a 22' Larson. You save a bit on the fiberglass and resin which offsets some of the cost. If you can't get the Coosa local the cost is about double. I needed 6-gal of the Nida Bond for stringers. Thankfully I only had to purchase a 5-gal bucket of it and was given a gallon in "samples" from the manufacturer. Shipping for the Nida Bond can be expensive.

Expensive part was spilling the two-part foam mixture on the new front seats. Don't ask.............:facepalm:

 

[tpenfield]

If I were to do a full restoration, I would use synthetic materials . . . Just so that what is beneath the fiberglass does not readily want to absorb water. Of course, the cost of some of the synthetic materials is crazy money, so it would be nice to see some more economical options going forward.