OMC electric shift lower question

Redrig

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Oct 13, 2009
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860
Hello,

I have an OMC electric shift, I have 2 lowers and the one that is on the boat now is working great. I am trying to repair the other lower so that I always have a good backup.

what happened with this broken lower is that while crusing I lost forward. just reved like as if I was in nuetral.
I took the lower off assuming the forward coil was shot, it is testing within specs of OHMs on the green wire (forward)

so what other component could cause me to lose forward? I apply 12 volts to the blue for reverse and it enganges fine, 12v to the green and I get nothing.

and a sperate question, how the heck do you get that main snap ring off in the lower ? every pair of snap ring pliers I can find are too small.

Thanks in advance.
 
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captk

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Apr 4, 2008
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Re: OMC electric shift lower question

The drive spring is probably broken. and you need a really big snap ring pliers to remove those rings and be careful they can fly and do some damage.
 

Redrig

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Oct 13, 2009
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Re: OMC electric shift lower question

The drive spring is probably broken. and you need a really big snap ring pliers to remove those rings and be careful they can fly and do some damage.

is the drive spring the slinky looking thing I have seen on ebay ?
 

captk

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Re: OMC electric shift lower question

Yes. It connects to the gear with screws and locks onto the clutch hub when the coil is energized.
 

Redrig

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Re: OMC electric shift lower question

dang, I checked 4 different tool and auto stores today for a set of retaining ring pliers that could get that ring off and had no luck. anyone have any ideas where to get a pair that would work for that ?
 

captk

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Apr 4, 2008
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252
Re: OMC electric shift lower question

The ones I use are, OTC #7295. about 12" long overall and have a ratchet lock and replaceable tips. You might try a Bearing distributor or hunt down a Snap-On or Mac truck. Have you tried a NAPA? Good luck Bill
 

Redrig

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Re: OMC electric shift lower question

sprung for a set of $50.00 ten inch channel lock retaining ring pliers that I found at a NAPA and it came right off with those.

I should have read further into my manual because now I hit another dead end. I have the ring off now and the prop drive shaft out along with the reverse assembly. Now I need that OMC 311875 socket so I can remove the vertical drive shaft to get the forward assembly out.

anyone have a loaner I can borrow for a day or 2 ? of course I will take care of all shipping.

Thanks, Collin
 

cnesstech

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Aug 23, 2012
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Re: OMC electric shift lower question

It's not the best thing to do, but I just wedged a small piece of material between the teeth of the pinion and forward gears and by being careful, the nut easily came off with no damage to either gear. I used a small nut that was definitely softer that the gears.
 

Redrig

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Oct 13, 2009
Messages
860
Re: OMC electric shift lower question

It's not the best thing to do, but I just wedged a small piece of material between the teeth of the pinion and forward gears and by being careful, the nut easily came off with no damage to either gear. I used a small nut that was definitely softer that the gears.

Dang, I havent seen this thread in a while.

what did you grab the top with ? EDIT - nevermind, I see what you are saying now.

that is definately bold, but if it didnt hurt the gears then thats great. Are you taking the lower apart or putting it back together ?

cuz if you are putting it back together, that nut has to be torqed pretty good (I dont remember the exact number) but that will be tough without having that tool and a torque wrench to get it right.

I had a marine mechanic tell me that he used to get that nut off with a piece of leather and a pipe wrench, he used the leather to not damage the splines. But once again, this creates a problem because you can't do it that way when putting it bakc together and have it torqued properly.
 
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