OMC shifting issues

13e13

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Jun 4, 2019
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Hello, I have a 91 Caravelle classic cuddy 19ft with a 4.3 V6 OMC Cobra. I am having shifting issues. I had a friend tell me I needed to adjust my shifting cable. Previous owner installed a new shifting cable so we were holding the idea just needed adjustment. I have another guy that tells me my dog clutches are gone. I have recently been shifting it into forward manually to operate the boat. I'm afraid this is going to damage my outdrive. The first problem I was trouble getting it to go to neutral from forward and from reverse to neutral. Then I lost forward. It would go in reverse but I can't get it to go into forward. I am fairly new to the OMC cobra. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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kpg7121

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 25, 2018
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Who told you the dog clutch was shot? Was it a mechanic? You can drain the gear oil & look for metal chunks. If you find any, the gerarset is gone. If not, refill the drive & youll have to do the shift system adjustments. There's a ton of threads on here how to do it. Good luck.
 

13e13

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Yes, he is a mechanic. He does not work on OMC and he doesn't seem to be a big fan either.
I will go through the threads today and see what I can find. And, can I destroy my drive my manually putting it into gear and operating that way?
 

ab59

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May 10, 2017
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Look back in my OMC Cobra shift problems thread and you will see that I have been having the same kind of problems . There should be several useful things there about adjusting the shift cables . If you take it step by step you should be able to get pretty dang close. I Still cannot get the timing right on mine but I can get it to shift into forward and Reverse with no problems .
 

13e13

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Ok great, I seen where you have been talking about it.
I appreciate your time and help.

what is your take on me shifting manually. Seems to work out fine, just afraid I may damage something?
 

bruceb58

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If you are having a problem shifting from either forward or reverse into neutral, you have an ESA issue. The ESA stumbles the motor to allow the dog clutches to have less pressure on them so they release easier. Of course this is only an issue while in the water. On land and on muffs, the ESA really doesn't do anything to help you. It is easy to test on land. You just operate the shift switch manually and see if it stumbles.

Is your distributor a points distributor or electronic. If electronic, was it converted from a points system?

As far as the shift cable adjustments is concerned, if you don't have the 2 special tools required to hold the cable and bellcrank, don't bother doing it until you buy the, You can buy after market versions of these tools on eBay and Amazon.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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What destroys the gearsets is an owner who shifts too slowly and grinds the clutch dogs every time he shifts, or a sticky cable that does not fully engage the clutch dogs and then it will jump out of gear under power. The cable must be in good shape and have low drag (less than 2.5 lbs measured with a fish scale). All the adjustments have to be right and the ESA must work. I learned how to adjust mine about 6 years ago because the remote control adjustment on the bellcrank changed and caused grinding going into fwd. So I went through all of it starting with the shift rod height (even though a shop originally did it for me back in '04, it was off by a bit), checking the shift cable drag, etc. Since then I have not had to touch it. I also had to replace the ESA switches and ESA module but they were over 25 years old by then. If you can shift it into gear with the transom shift cable and it does not grind, or jump out of gear, your clutch dogs are probably fine. The problem then might be in the remote cable adjustment on the shifter bell crank on the engine bracket or the remote control itself (loose, sloppy operation). You need to have equal throw on either side of neutral so both fwd and rev engage fully. As Bruce said, don't bother trying to adjust it with out the tools and make sure to check the drag on the cable. The bellcrank in the pivot housing must also be moving freely and they sometimes get sticky due to water deposits building up in the little pocket it lives in. Once you get them set up right they shift very well, and the drive itself is quite durable, at least I have found that to be the case.
 

13e13

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Jun 4, 2019
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Thanks Bruceb, I am not sure about the distributor and as of now it is an issue with going into forward. Unless i manually shift it I can't get it to go into forward. It just revs up and don't shift.
 

13e13

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Thanks Lou C. I guess I should get the proper tools to adjust this. Very informative. Gotta take care of our toys so our toys will take care of us.
 

13e13

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So, in order to adjust properly I need to use the tool to hold my bell crank and the shift cable adjustment tool? Is there a way I can adjust my shift cable with the tool and set my RPMs where it needs to be and work it out? Cause I know they cable is way off and my RPMs are at 900.
 

kpg7121

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The engine rpm's should be about 600 for the ESA to work properly. Adjust the idle & see how it shifts. And yes those are the tools you need to do the shift cable, bellcrank adjustment.
 

Lou C

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Agreed get your idle down to where it needs to be first. If its that high the ESA is not able to lower it enough to get the drive out of gear. Normal ESA operation will lower the idle rpm from 600 down to 450. Proper idle speed as per OMC is 500-600 rpm in fwd gear in the water. If you're going to adjust it, be prepared to remove the outdrive, check the shift rod height, clean out the pocket where the bellcrank is in the pivot housing, and check the shift cable drag. The ONLY way to get one of these right is start at the beginning and do all the steps. Who knows who messed with a boat that age and didn't do each step properly. I can tell you from my experience if you do it properly it will shift fine.
 

13e13

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Thanks guys, I may be that stubborn guy at times ,but this is something I need to do properly. The previous owner replace the shift cable and I'm assuming he did not touch on every one of these steps. I will follow your all's words and go through the steps completely thank you I appreciate you guys. However this weekend I'm going to go out and I think I'll be stuck manually shifting it. Honestly, I have no problem with that for the time being, but I am going to at least lower my idle this weekend.
thanks guys
 

Lou C

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As long as it does not grind excessively and jump out of gear, shifting it manually will not hurt it. If it shifts properly when you shift it that way, it may be that the remote cable adjustment is off. The steps are:
1) check shift rod height
2) disconnect transom shift cable at both the engine bracket end and the pivot housing bellcrank end
3) measure cable drag
4) install right angle holding tool on bellcrank in pivot housing to hold bellcrank
5) adjust transom shift cable with tool up at the engine end
6) adjust remote cable for equal stroke either side of neutral

if you don't have a factory shop manual for OMC (I think they are still out there) you would have to use the instructions on the Midnight Wolf OMC tools site. I'd print them out so you have them. It can be a bit confusing to say the least so you will have to read it through several times before it starts to make sense.

A good check when you are done, is to have a helper to shift the remote control into gear while you spin the prop. One of these dog clutch drives should not be shifted into gear when the engine is off because the clutch dogs might not line up. So the way around it (ENGINE OFF KEY OUT) is to spin the prop by hand, have someone shift it from neutral to fwd, neutral to rev. The prop should lock in both gears. If not, the clutch dogs are not engaging all the way and it can jump out of gear.
 
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13e13

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Jun 4, 2019
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Doesn't grind or jump out at all if I manually shift, it works fine. I did forget to take it out of forward when I shut it off. So, when I started it, it was already in gear. Seemed to be convienant. But, I need to keep aware I guess

it sounds like you may have hit it on the head Lou C. It remote just need those steps and lower the Rpms..

you guys are a huge help..
 

Lou C

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Just be careful, it should not start in-gear because of the neutral safety switch. Just like a stick shift car. So if you are in fwd, coming into the dock, can you shift to neutral and then reverse? If so ok but if not, I would not use it on the water yet because that would be dangerous.

PS I have owned the Cobra for 17 years, once set up right they are good. Only issue now is some parts are getting hard to find. I am going to put mine up on craig's list because I want an outboard at this stage in life. Getting too old to keep doing the I/O maintenance every year and always having to fix SOMETHING. Thinking of a Key West 20 dual console and an Evinrude G2 150.
 

13e13

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Jun 4, 2019
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I hear you on the outboard. This is my first one I guess I'll allow it to burn me out. If I leave it in gear after I manually shift it, it will start up in forward and reverse.
 

13e13

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Jun 4, 2019
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Oh, I didn't mention that I had took the cottter pin off where the barrel is so I could shift it manually. I should leave it in when I manually shift it and maybe it will go into neutral from forward?..Also, maybe that's why it will start in forward.
 
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