omc shifting

[Looking for answers]

Just bought 92 reinell 170m with OMC 2.3 and am having trouble when trying to go forward.Sometimes will not go, sometimes goes with a loud "clunk" sound. But once in gear goes great.What is problem

 

[marinemech]

Re: omc shifting

look at drive shift cable is it red or black?<br />if black with ribs it should be replaced<br />gears may also be damaged<br />this was a warranty recall back in the good old days but some units were never up graded<br />have a good omc tech check your shift adjustment<br />if adjustment ok ang gears still slipping you will have to replace gears with new design or live with it

 

[lakelivin]

Re: omc shifting

Looking, check out the following site. Comprehensive info about Cobra shift problems. You shouldn't have one of the recalled drive shift cables, that was identified in the late 1980s and your boat is a '92. <br /><br /> http://www.funkopolis.com:8080/~stuart/cobra/

 

[Don S]

Re: omc shifting

LL, just an FYI, Stuart added to his information and started a new location. You might want to upgrade to his newer link.<br /><br /> http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/index.html

 

[lakelivin]

Re: omc shifting

Hey Don,<br /><br />I just compared the two main docs and although it's possible I missed something, I'm almost sure they're identical. Are there differences or updates that you know of to any of the links contained within the main docs?<br /><br />Think I'll change to the link you listed anyways, just for consistency within this forum. Plus, if he takes down one of his sites I imagine it will be the older one first.<br /><br />I try to point people to Stuarts site about OMC shift questions 'cause my technical knowledge isn't enough to add much anywhere else. Figure I can at least free up you guys with the real knowledge to answer posts that need your expertise.<br /><br />Take care,<br />LakeLivin

 

[Lou C]

Re: omc shifting

Basically what was added was info about the Petronix igniter and how to make it work with the ESA, and info about the OMC bankrupcy. All the other tech stuff is the same as far as I can see.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: omc shifting

Lou,<br /><br />Don't know how long it's been since you looked at Stuart's funkopolis site, but he's got the Pertronix and OMC bankruptcy info on there as well. Pretty sure the two sites are identical at this point. Not that big a deal, but might be worthwhile knowing in case one or the other site has temporary problems with the server or something like that.

 

[highaltitude]

Re: omc shifting

the omc shift cable/installation/recall/updates still require knowledge of the setup that is beyond most shadetree mechanics. although the system is basic in theory-very few will get it right.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: omc shifting

Originally posted by highaltitude:<br /> the omc shift cable/installation/recall/updates still require knowledge of the setup that is beyond most shadetree mechanics. although the system is basic in theory-very few will get it right.

High,<br /><br />Even with Stuarts detailed instructions/ tips and a service manual? I'm probably asking out of wishful thinking. I've never tried it, but was hoping that I might be able to do it myself when I need a new transom shift cable. (I'm not much of even a shadetree mechanic, but I can follow directions).<br /><br />Any novices that have successfully done this without major problems? There was a shadetree mechanic that asked about this a couple of months ago and was going to try it himself. I forget who it was, but if you tried it how about some feedback as to how it went?

 

[pra100]

Re: omc shifting

Well I can say I am a novice,although I do all my own servicing and repairs.I have a 91 Mariah 1900z with a 4.3HO OMC Cobra.I did tackle the shift cable replacement.I thought it was not to dificult although I followed Stewarts instructions I also use information from 2 different manuals and it helped.Really is pretty easy,once you get into it you will understand the directions better. I would go ahead and change the driveshaft bellows while at it beings you are right there and check the gimbel bearing.There should be a tube in the engine compartment the shift cable goes through the trasom.At the end of this tube is a small black rubber bellow that seals around the shift cable,be sure and get it back on good so water doesn't come up the tube and enter the boat.<br />Procedures to get to the drive end of cable are stright forward.Just undo the lift rams on either side of drive at drive end,support them with some wire or rope so they don't fall down,do not have drive in gear.Undo the 6 nuts on drive,3 on either <br />side. slide drive back supporting the skeg with a piece of wood,guide the drive shaft out.Drive is heavy althought I was able to pull it by myself and pick it up and carry it to a support I had made to hold it upright.While you have drive out be sure and grease the ujoints. There will be 2 1/2 inch allen type screws on either side of pivot housing you will have to unscrew to remove piviot housing,reach inside the ujoint bellows and the exhaust bellows and remove the ring that holds them on to pivot housing.If you see holes in exhaust bellows along the bottom never fear they are supposed to be there.Now slide pivot housing off and you are ready to start the shift cable replacement.Main thing is to get the mesurements exactly as they are supposed to be.Hope this helps anyone interested.<br />My drive shifts as smoth as Stewart says it should,2 fingers.One other thing I have found on OMC Cobras is your engine idle plays a big part in how it shifts.It needs to be idleing 400 to 600 rpm to shift smothly.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: omc shifting

Phillip, hope you'll bear with me for a couple more questions. Like I said, I have little mechanical experience but can follow instructions (disassembled & fixed broken part in my shift lever assembly and replaced engine shift cable is probably my biggest repair experience). Trying to guage as to whether I would attempt to change transom shift cable myself. (1989 4.3L cobra).<br /><br />Did you have any of the special OMC tools or make do without them? How long did the whole procedure take you (I'll take your time & multiply it by 2 for an estimate as to how long it would take me, lol).<br /><br />What parts did you need beyond the cable, bellows, and gaskets? (I just had new bellows put on, so wouldn't need to replace them). Little things like plastic lock nuts, o rings, etc? <br /><br />Was there any reason to seperate the lower & upper drive unit, or can you just pull the whole thing and go from there?<br /><br />How hard was it to realign the drive when you put it back on? <br /><br />Lastly, did you have the OEM OMC manual? I've already got a Clymer's, but am not all that impressed with it.<br /><br />Thanks for the feedback.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: omc shifting

hello<br /> if your very careful and slightly innovative the only speacial tools needed will be a shaft alignment tool to check the engine alighnment. nice to do but if the splines come out easy odds are there is no alignment issues. the other is the snap ring pliers to remove the exhaust bellows. the speacial tool to hold the bell crank is nice but not nessasary. just make sure with a square that the crank stays 90* from the gimbal surface while adjusting the cable. but for 250 or so a pro can do it and be done n an hour and a half or so.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: omc shifting

rodbolt, thanks for the info. Biggest issue with having a pro do it is that the nearest mechanic I'd trust with my OMC is about 1.5 hours away. So talking about 6 hours total driving time to drop off & pick up later....

 

[pra100]

Re: omc shifting

LakeLivin<br />I did not use any special tools,I used a metal 1 foot mesuring stick marked in 1/32 and a small square for the bell crank. I had to use a boxed in wrench on the 6 nuts holding drive on as I couldn't get a socket on them.You will need a gasket set which consist of a gasket to go between drive and a couple of o rings.The gasket set is cheap and can be ordered or bought locally.You will neet some gasket sealer to put on this gasket.Only issue I had was there is a plastic water nipple that goes through transum plate which you need to undo,it has a big plastic nut on it.<br />I broke mine, had to order one,a hole 5 or 6 bucks.You will need some marine grease to grease ujoints and put on drive splines.Now to this issue <br />of greesing the splines,you want a very ,very thin layer on the splines as to much will make it very difficult to replace the drive,it will just not compress a large amount of greese.You also want to greese all around the yoke area so it slides easy.<br />Now I didn't use a alighment tool beings mine just slide right in and out.The subject of the bell crank.I read that this gets really gunked up and low and behold mine was,so clean this up good and lightly greese it and its shaft.That bell crank can cause shifting problems also.As rodbolt said it must be at a 90* angle to the machine surface.That is what I used the small square for.<br />The manual I used was the Selco and I used the info for Stewart Hastings web site.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: omc shifting

Thanks Philip, sounds like some really good tips. With all of the detailed advice and a manual I'd really like to try this if I can spare the time. How long did it take you? (like I said, I'll prolly multiply your time by 1.75 or 2 to get a reasonable estimate as to how long it'll take me, lol).

 

[Don S]

Re: omc shifting

LL, don't try setting time limits on yourself, or you will end up screwing something up. Take your time and only work on it when you feel you want to. Trying to hurry up and get done before dark or before dinner or whatever usually causes things to get done wrong, or missed completely. If you have a question during the process, stop and ask, don't just jam it back together "Assuming" it's ok. If it takes a couple of weekends, who cares......

 

[JustMrWill]

Re: omc shifting

I would recommend the OMC manual...I have both and the OEM is 100x easier to see what you are suppose to be doing...The Selco seems to jump around abit...keep an eye on ebay and I'm sure the one you need will show up.<br /><br />-JustMrWill

 

[lakelivin]

Re: omc shifting

Don,<br /><br />Thanks, great advice (did you read 'Zen & the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance'?), but not really an issue with me. I'm pretty slow and methodical. I'll double, triple, quadrouple check before doing anything I'm unfamiliar with. That's why I know it'll take me much more time than the average shadetree mechanic. <br /><br />Just trying to get a guage as to how long that might be before making the decision as to whether to give it a go or take it in (I've got six 'free hours' to start with 'cause thats how long it would take to drive it to an OMC tech I trust and then pick it up when it's done). <br /><br />Of course much of the decision will depend on how much free time I'll have when spring rolls around, but I hope it's enough to give it a try. I know I'd find it very satisfying to do it right, especially given my limited mechanical history. I read these forums every day and feel like I'm learning some even without doing anything.<br /><br />Although it was relatively simple (with advice from this board), even fixing that starting problem myself was pretty satisfying. (the bad ground/ assist solenoid issue).<br /><br />Hey, and thanks in general for the time you put into these forums. There's a couple of you guys who not only contribute quite a bit, but even I can recognize the expertise and level of experience you add. I've recommended this forum to all of my boating friends who are likely to do anything to their boats themselves.

 

[Lou C]

Re: omc shifting

I have all the manuals, OMC and after market, I read all of Stuart's site, but since I have an expert 3 miles away, I just take it to him for a once a year OD service. And when he retires, I'll offer to pay him to teach me how to do it!