Opinions

[TMALEGA]

Ok so i got my new 17 degree prop on went out with the new fuel lines and cleaned up pump. Ran like a champ 3 of us in there and right out the gate i was higher on rpms around 4500 and flying on the water. However i went to try and trim the motor out and o yea it went out again. 3 time since it was "rebuilt". The opinion i am asking you fine and inteligent people for is this. Am i wrong for being at the point of asking for a whole new motor or my money back from the place i had "rebuild" this motor. Each time it has been a internal wiring issue. They have fixed it for free everytime but it is getting really old at this point. That i dont know when my tilt and trim will work or not. I unerstand it is a old motor but when i had it done the first time they said they replaced everything. Then when i got it home it didnt work took it back and they forgot to secure the ground. Next time it was a different wire inside i think the blue wire. Then last weekend the ground wire broke off the battery(no biggie, fixed and was good at house.) got to the lake tonight and then it didnt work. Tried going to the input side of the of the motor and bypass the switch completely still nothing it isnt even making a noise. This is the 3 wire system, i dont want to take it off the motor again due to be weary of stripping the valve body out. So should i be this pissed and want either my money back or a new motor?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Opinions

If the problem is just the motor, you don't need to remove the whole trim unit. The two screws on the top pass through the whole motor and secure it to the reservoir.

After three times, yeah, I would be pissed also and expect some sort of redress. New motor? Perhaps not but at least a different rebuilt one.

 

[Art Bernard]

Re: Opinions

Ditto.

Art

 

[TMALEGA]

Re: Opinions

Ty frank and art.

Frank before i ever took the motor in to be rebuilt i opened it up on my own and found the brushes were broken and thier housing was cracked and broken. When i pulled the two bolts out of the top the motor didnt come off the resivoir. Does it need a tap or something? I wouldnt mind them rebuilding it again if i could trust it to be fixed right and not have to worry about it. Is there a secret to taking it off? Also they put the wiring harness coming out on the side facing the motor and in order to make it go into the boat to connect to the battery it has to be bent to almost a 90 degree angle. Could that make a difference? I asked multiple times and each time they told me not to worry about it. My thing is the manufactuar put it a certain way for a reason.

I was at the point where i just wanted to go "give" the motor back while they were closed last night. It had been a very long and trying day of work and going to the lake was suppose to relax me, but no i had to spend a hour trying to get the motor to work. And since i dont have a actual manual bleed screw. Someone replaced it or something with a cover and snap ring and so the only way for me to bleed it is to loosen a line. It was not a good ending to the day. Thanks again.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Opinions

none of the units have a bleed screw. They are self bleeding. You simply cycle them up and down a couple of times and all air is expelled into the reservoir. Obviously, in your case you can not do that.

The gasket on the bottom of the motor does get stuck and a good tap is necessary to remove it. once the gasket is cracked, the motor should lift straight up. The armature may or will stay in the reservoir and you will need to pull it out separately. If you can not remove your motor, and if the original paint is not cracked, that tells me that the motor was not removed for rebuilding. Seems to me that this would be difficult to do and the shop would have certainly disassembled everything.

I always disliked the wire coming out the side of the motorand on one I did experiment with turning the motor 180 degrees--It now faces away from the engine mounting clamps and it is easier to feed the wire into the boat.

 

[TMALEGA]

Re: Opinions

Ok thank you frank i was not liking the wires on the side they are on now for the same reason. So if they tell me so sorry have a nice day then how hard is it to get in there and repair whatever wire damage there may end up being? Is it a day kind of thing or just a couple hours? I know depending on damage it will vary but if it is just a lose ground wire? This forum rocks. I appreciate everything you guys say and suggest. I did get the prop issue fixed and if i can get the trim to work again then i can probably get this bad boy up to the rpm range and all should be good.

Now there is a port with a cover and snap ring holding the cover back and above it, reads "manual bleed" but i cant use it since there is no way of opening it up short of pulling the snap ring out and the cover, i will try and take pictures of it this evening and post it to see if something is missing i need to get and put on. There is a leak down on the tilt ram but wont do any good to fix it if i dont have the motor working correctly to lift anything up.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Opinions

Strange: I have not seen a manual bleed unit but I don't doubt you. However, I have seen units with a slotted shaft in the front valve and this is a manual release. I haven't done too much with tilt systems so I am a little out of my element here.

Your motor MAY have a bimetal overheat switch inside under the top cap. It is mounted on a plastic board along with the brushes. It opens if you hold the switch too long after the motor reaches full tilt. This may be worn and not contacting, or you may have broken wires. Your motor is not a permanent magnet motor. Those screws on the side hold cores and fiels winding inside the case. AND, If I remember correctly, there are two different windings for up and down but both connect to a common ground.

Mounting the motor with the wires facing the transom clamps is awkward but should not have broken them.

So, if you get no satisfaction from the rebuilder, take off the top cap and look at the condition of the brushes and armature. Clean if necessary. Check the bimetal swithc and clen it too. Then, check for open circuits.

Of course, I am assuming that you have already checked the switch and battery connections.

And, if you just can't seem to get it going, why not send a PM to RRitt? He does them all the time and knows his stuff. I'm sure you would be satisfied if he rebuilt it for you.

 

[TMALEGA]

Re: Opinions

Ok thank you and you are correct i tested that all last night prior to getting to mad. I went past the switch to the connection on the wires going into the motor itself and still nothing. They said today i will have to pull the entire motor including the valve body to get to them or they wont do anything for me. Starting to get me a tad more on the mad side i understand needing it there to check it out, however they want to charge me if i bring the whole boat up there to have them look at it without having to take the motor off of it. I will send rrit a message thanks frank.

 

[TMALEGA]

Re: Opinions

So i got home and jigled the wires in the motor housing and the motor started working. So i need to get them to turn the motor 180 deg so the wires arent pulling like they are. Also need them to make sure there isnt anything else wrong with it. Man this is the last thing that boats-n-moore ever does for me.

Now for the next problem i have noticed the carbs arent opening all the way and in order to get them to the cam roller doesnt touch in nuetral until about 1/4 throttle and i cant find a new roller this one looks worn down. Anyone konw where i can find one? Thanks for all the help guys and gals. You are the best.

 

[pnwboat]

Re: Opinions

The shaft that the roller is on is not centered. It's offset to one side. Loosed the nut on the other side and turn the shaft that goes through the center of the roller. The roller will move towards the cam or away depending on which direction you turn the shaft.

 

[TMALEGA]

Re: Opinions

I have tried to move the roller cam and still cant get it close enough. The roller had some electrical tape on it when i got it but i thought it was some other reason not that it wasnt getting the adjustment it needed. I tried looking on crowleymarine.com and couldnt find the roller and the tie bar is what i call it that attaches to that cam mine is a little bent i tried to straighten it out but am afraid to go much farther then what i have done. I was thinking this morning to get a small peice of hose and putting it on there to see if that will work.