Re: out drive anode
I assume you're talking about the anodic head bolt assembly that is on the gimbal housing. The gimbal housing is mounted on the transom. Aft of that is the driveshaft housing ("upper" sterndrive housing). Below that is the gear housing ("lower" sterndrive housing). The water pickup pump is in the bottom of the gear housing. You don't need to take off the driveshaft housing or gimbal housing. If I am misunderstanding you, I apologize. If not, you need to get a Clymer or Merc manual and follow it. There are plenty of online sites that describe the procedure, but you should get a manual with lots of pictures. Changing out the water pump is not that hard, but it's easy to mess up which will cause later damage to the drive. As long as you're replacing the impeller, replace the upper water pump housing (plastic). It warps due to exhaust, and the driveshaft seals deteriorate. If they groove the driveshaft, you'll be unhappy. Obviously you also replace all the gaskets. You buy a kit that contains all of this, and you'll need some Perfect Seal or your preference of gasket sealer, and some Special Lube 101 (with teflon). In addition to the kit, I would buy the water pump lower housing. It's only like 20 or 25 bucks. As long as you're in there, you should replace it. It has two driveshaft seals that also wear out. The R drive (like mine) also has a water pocket in the driveshaft housing. With the lower unit off, you can lay on your back and see the water pocket cover with a flashlight. I recommend VERY CAREFULLY pulling the water pocket cover. It is plastic. Check it for warpage. I just replaced mine. Read this:
http://www.marinemechanic.com/site/page150.html Also feel around up in the water pocket--mine had old (very old) impeller parts that would clog up the crossdrilled water feed. The feed is on the port (left) side. The hole you feel on the starboard (right) side is a pipe plug (covered by a welch plug under the starboard decal). If you have any flow problems, you really should take a look inside the water pocket. Be very careful not to break any of the 4 bolts off, or you'll be extremely unhappy. I bought new bolts and coated them well with Perfect Seal, as the factory ended up doing eventually. Also check your water feed hose from the bell housing to the gimbal housing. When I backflushed with a garden hose into the water feed hose that lies across the engine (toward the sterndrive, not the engine), I found small cracks in the ends of the outside hose that were leaking a lot when the flow rate was high. Take your time and have fun. Oh, by the way, the water pump job should take about 2-3 hours the first time, and down to an hour once you're used to it. Get a helper to help you remove and replace the lower unit--it is heavy, and someone should hold the prop while you reassemble. Follow the directions about being in forward gear (boat and lower unit), or you'll be unhappy. Be aware that the elastic stop nuts that bolt the lower unit to the upper unit are not to be used more than twice (really). Just replace them, they are cheap. Don't forget the allen screw under the trim tab, especially for reassembly. Do NOT forget the tiny quad seal on the oil passage between the lower and upper unit, or you will blow the drive up when you take the boat out. Don't forget the gear lube (I've actually heard of that...).<br /><br />Steve
