Outboard Cooling Force 120

[JOHNSTI]

I run a 1998 Force 120 on a Bayliner Capri. Normal running no problem but left at idle the overheat alarm sounds after a few minutes.<br />Attempted to flush using usual clamps but no real water jet from the tell tale and again engine began to overheat.<br />Suspect water pump/ impeller (previous owner left it in seawater) but have no manual to follow.<br />Does anyone know the procedure for checking and if necessary replacing the pump / impeller - or any other ideas what problem could be?<br />Workshop diagram of engine would be helpful also any advice on prop type as i intend to do slow river work as well as sea & lake skiing.

 

[91formula]

Re: Outboard Cooling Force 120

I have a 92/120hp Force and if you use ears to flush your engine and they'res not water coming from you 2 outlet holes its almost a sure bet your water pump/impeller needs replaced. If run in salt water it should be changed every season, I took mine to a dealer, cost 175.00 for new pump and impeller, just got a manual and next year I'm gonna try it myself. Don't run your engine until it's replaced. Also you can go to the top of the page and hit search, type in water inpeller water pump it will bring up other peoples problems and alot of good advice. Hope this helps, How long did you run your engine without no water, I would always run my engine in the parking lot before I went out on the water, mine ran about 4 minutes off and on, so after replacement it runs like new!

 

[lonewolf5347]

Re: Outboard Cooling Force 120

The impeller is very easy @ the hardest part is getting the unit back up.trim engine to up position six bolt's 1 under the tab.(note before removing tab mark it so it will return to correct position)remove cotter pin from shift linkage,unit should drop .impeller is under the stainless housing with the key way.note direction impeller fin's .reinstall new impeller,housing @ keyway. you may have to engauge the shift rod to turn the prop shaft to line up the center splines on main shaft .that it.

 

[my new fishmaster]

Re: Outboard Cooling Force 120

Easy take off the trim tabs and stuff theres bolts under there. Undo all bolts and unscrew the shifter linkage note the position before removing now the whole lower should come off. Undo the housing where the impeller lives put on new be sure the key is coged. Use locktight thread locker on everything trust me. Heck locktight is my friend its all over my cars and trucks.

 

[my new fishmaster]

Re: Outboard Cooling Force 120

After re *** now you need to do a static adj of the linkage you removed. (static means with the engine off!!) Have a friend shift forward and rev until you get it dead centered between rev/neu/forward take your time. O and thread locker on the linkage 2 after you found center and double check after.

 

[JOHNSTI]

Re: Outboard Cooling Force 120

Furter to responses from 91formula and lonewolf5347 re Force 120 cooling problem I'm not exactly clear of procedure for checking / changing water pump impeller.<br />Is it necessary to drain off the gearbox oil first. Is it the bottom section of the engine which needs to be removed by undoing 4 nuts on studs releasing the bottom 1/3rd of the casing or the two nuts - one above and one below the prop housing (horizontal)allowing withdrawl of / access to section behind the propellor.<br />I'm sending off for a wokship manual- perhaps that will enlighten me

 

[chads15]

Re: Outboard Cooling Force 120

There is one bolt under the trim/vent tab. no you do not need to drain the drive lube. but heck if you havent done it in a long time you may as well. but remove the prop. it makes it a bit lighter to handel when you are removing the Lower Unit. not to mention the propshaft makes a nice handel too!

 

[Dave H]

Re: Outboard Cooling Force 120

When installing your new pump. Before you slide the new impeller onto the shaft. First make sure you have the guide key in-place on the shaft. Also,it is strongly recommended that you Do Not use any type of lub to assist you installing the new impeller into the housing. A little trick I learned is to slide the housing down on top of the impeller, apply a little down pressure. At the same time have someone turn the prop shaft counterclock. The pump housing feels as though it gets sucked down over the impeller. Also, honor those torq values when installing the pump onto the lower unit. Over torqing can hamper the rotation of the impeller. Hope this eases your worries.....

 

[Skybolt]

Re: Outboard Cooling Force 120

I chased an overheat alarm on my 89 125 force for weeks. I changed the impeller twice before I changed the sending unit. Problem was the sending unit.