Outdrive whining?

Beob

Recruit
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
Messages
5
I have an 04 bowrider 4.3gl VP with sx outdrive. Last weekend got cuaght in some rough water and took several big waves over bow. Bilge got clogged and saltwater came about halfway up engine block. After taking care of starter and trim pump issues took boat out today and as soon as i brought rpm up it developed a whining noise from rear of engine. Any ideas, bearing or u joint maybe?
Thanks
Rob
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,293
and as soon as i brought rpm up it developed a whining noise from rear of engine. Any ideas, bearing or u joint maybe?

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,...... If ya didn't pull the drive, 'n look it over, That's where I'd be lookin' now,....
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,261
welcome aboard.

I would drain the drive oil and check for water intrustion, then pull the drive like Bondo indicated and start investigating.
 

Beob

Recruit
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
Messages
5
Thanks for welcomes and replies. Will drain oil today.
I guess I was wondering if saltwater intrusion can occur from the inside ?
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,293
I guess I was wondering if saltwater intrusion can occur from the inside ?

Ayuh,.... Not exactly sure on yer Volvo, but I believe so, just like a Merc, through the gimbel bearin',....
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,148
Take the drive off and reach in the bellows and spin the bearing.
ANY rough spots.Replace
Then do what Scott suggested.
The drive is a sealed unit and water coming in through the bellows can happen but there is a seal that should stop it.
If the drive is drained and has no water in it then the seal is probably not the problem.
 

Beob

Recruit
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
Messages
5
Thanks for help. Likely gonna pull outdrive in next week or two. This is my 1st boat and never done this before, just wanted a better understanding of how things work. Would it be pointless to squirt grease into gimbal now? Also the noise continued when in neutral.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,619
If you haven't already taken the starter off, take it off too. Once water gets in those, they are junk.

I would be taking that drive off immediately. Salt water in the bellows is extremely bad.
 

skydiveD30571

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 13, 2012
Messages
1,042
I guess I was wondering if saltwater intrusion can occur from the inside ?

Yes it can. The opening in the transom for the driveshaft to exit the rear is completely open. If water got that high up in your bilge, it would flow through the hole, in and around the gimbal bearing, and into the bellows where it would collect and most likely soak the u-joints. Your whine is probably coming from one of those two but the only way to check for sure is by pulling the drive. It's not as hard as you think it will be. Salt water can also rust the driveshaft where it enters the drive, causing the shaft to destroy the seals and allow the water to enter the drive. I wouldn't wait too long to check it out.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,261
Thanks for help. Likely gonna pull outdrive in next week or two. This is my 1st boat and never done this before, just wanted a better understanding of how things work. Would it be pointless to squirt grease into gimbal now? Also the noise continued when in neutral.

if you wait a week or two it may be a week or two too late.

pull the drive ASAP. and as indicated, pull the starter as well.
 

Beob

Recruit
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
Messages
5
Thanks for lighting a fire under my ass! Pulled drive yesterday and there was water in bellows. The shaft and u joints had light rust which wiped off and the bearing spun freely, no wobble, but did make a dry roller sound. Should these parts be replaced?
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,619
The gimbal bearing definitely needs to be replaced. How do the u-joints feel?

There was a poster on another thread that thinks the seal on the driveshaft right after the gimbal bearing is good at sealing water in/out. This answers that question. It is only a dirt seal.
 
Last edited:

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,261
hose off the light rust with WD40 or something to prevent any further rusting. clean up as best you can post pictures. when you get them clean, hose them down with boeshield or fluidfilm. you may be lucky here.

drain the oil in the drive

replace gimbal bearing
 

Beob

Recruit
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
Messages
5
Brought the boat to mechanic for bearing replacement. He said to replace the shaft bellows as well. Total would be about $500, wast expect that since drive is already off! I think u joints are ok, no noise or play and spin freely.
Thanks to all
 

dypcdiver

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
1,043
New bellows, gimbal plus a gimbal removal tool would be only half of that and about half an hour of work. As you are handy enough to remove the drive replacing the gimbal is easy with the right tool off ebay and at the same time buy an alignment tool as you will need it in the future. Your choice.
 

nylyon

Cadet
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
16
I agree, just did this myself, parts about $150, once the drive is off, bearing pull took 2 minutes, new bearing install, 5 minutes, bellows 15 minutes.
 

skydiveD30571

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 13, 2012
Messages
1,042
Coming from experience, if you choose to replace the gimbal bearing yourself (which you should, it is simple and all you need is a slide hammer with a jaw attachment which you can rent for free from a local automotive store) take a look at the dust seal and if it looks ok leave it alone. That thing took me forever to replace for no reason. Put the bearing in the freezer overnight and it'll slide right in without much trouble.

Boat mechanic labor is pretty steep, which is why so many of us do it ourselves. New bellows and a bearing is well under $100 and not much work doing it yourself.
 
Top