Overtemp issue above idle speed

badrano

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 7, 2018
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344
Yesterday was a fun experience. Grounded the boat on a small sand bar. I knew I was in shallow water so I was idling in and the engine quit. My assumption is the prop bogged down in the dirt and stalled the engine out. Engine restarted ok and just had to shift weight around on the boat to get out.

A little later down the river, I started to venture into a creek and decided to back off since I knew it was low tide. I turned around and gave it a little gas and felt a nice shudder, backed off and realized I was getting caught in some plant life. Got clear of the plant life and sped off. This was followed by the alarm going off due to overtemp. I idled back down and the engine temp dropped and the alarm shut off. I started to rev up, 1000-2000 rpms and noticed the temp guage starting to climb again so I throttled back. Luckily at this point I was right near the ramp and just idled over loaded up and went home.

When I got home, I put the muffs on to flush out and after about 30 seconds or a little more, no water was coming out of the exhaust. I know it takes a few seconds for the water to work its way through, but since I saw the temp guage rising from being cold, I killed the engine. Not going to risk running any longer since I thought water should have be coming out of the exhaust by then. At this point I figured I had sucked some bits of plant life in or the impeller decided to quit on me. Since I had just bought the boat several weeks ago, the only records I have is the regular winterization with engine oil change, so I don't know when the impeller was last done. I was going to take care of all this come winterization time.

After things cooled off a bit, I decided to pull the water intake hose off the thermostat housing and use the garden hose in an attempt to back flush. Leaving the hose disconnected, I put the muffs back on and started the engine to see if I got water flow. Water was flowing within 30 sec and I was ready to kill the engine if no flow. I put everything back together and started the engine up and within 30 sec, water was flowing out of the exhaust. I continued to let it run so I could get the flush done and the temp reached normal reading.

So, I don't know if the overtemp issue is resolved. I'm leaning now to replace the impeller before I take it out again but then I'm going to basically change the gear lube twice, now and when I winterize it. That's probably not a big thing since the oil is fairly cheap.

I'm riding a 2005 Chap 204 SSi with 5.0L TKS. I guess I need to realize I'm not in my old little 14 alum with a 15hp when I could putt around in shallow water.

Any thoughts?
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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You ran thru sand/mud and weeds and right after that your getting overheated. The lack of water during this brief even has damaged the impeller, it doesn't tank long. Instead of waiting for this winter, do it now, and just put in to bed without changing it this winter
 

badrano

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 7, 2018
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344
I'm looking at the several different kits. One is just the impeller with associated face plate, gaskets and o-rings, while the other is a complete kit complete with pump housing, impeller key, impeller, gaskets and o-rings..

Which one should I shoot for? I'm sure there may be a "it depends" :)
 

alldodge

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You may just need the impeller, but I would get the whole kit. This way if it needs more then the impeller you have it, and if it doesn't it will need it sometime in the future
 

badrano

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 7, 2018
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344
Is there any preference to use OEM or Sierra parts? I've read some posts where, depending on the part, OEM is preferred.

I've been reading the service manual. The screws for the pump housing should be tightened to 60 in lbs. Are the screws a hex head or phillips? Is it recommended to get an in.lbs torque wrench?
 
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alldodge

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I like OEM but others do fine with Sierra

Some use torque wrenches for the small stuff I use my hand and feel for the right amount

They should be bolts but should also show you in your manual
 

harringtondav

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May 26, 2018
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2,442
I've had the opposite problem after backing off a sand beach. The prop wash stirs up sand which gets pumped to my thermostat and blocks it open causing low temp. I've never had it blocked shut, but it may be worth pulling your stat and make sure it's not clogged. If you have a closed system, your heat exchanger may be plugged.
 

badrano

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 7, 2018
Messages
344
I've had the opposite problem after backing off a sand beach. The prop wash stirs up sand which gets pumped to my thermostat and blocks it open causing low temp. I've never had it blocked shut, but it may be worth pulling your stat and make sure it's not clogged. If you have a closed system, your heat exchanger may be plugged.

Good point. I will add that to my list. When I pulled the raw water feed hose of the housing, there was a coating of silt on the walls of the hose.

What is the t-stat housing bolt torque setting?
 

badrano

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 7, 2018
Messages
344
Thanks everyone for the tips.

I've completed my first mechanical repair and now my body hurts. I've watch many you tube videos and they make it look so easy...until your boat has the darn extended swim platform. Talk about man handling the lower unit from a crouched position.

There was no obvious damage to the impeller, but I have no idea when it was last replaced. I believe it was replaced at least once because who ever did it, left the shaft seal tool on the shaft. The thermostat was much easier...2 bolts :)

Unfortunately, tomorrows forecast has rain, so I guess I will have to wait until next weekend to make sure all is good.
 
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