Paint for outboard motor.

jai070404

Seaman
Joined
Jun 15, 2004
Messages
56
I have a 1968 Erude 40hp. Since I am slowly taking it apart I might aswell repaint. What are the best paints for outboard motors. Thanks.
 

petrolhead

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
614
Re: Paint for outboard motor.

Just did a bare metal respray on my '58 Johnson 18hp. I used 2 pack epoxy primer, you could use zinc chromate primer which is what they used originally, I prefer epoxy and I had it to hand anyway.<br />For the best finish I'd recommend 2 pack acrylic topcoat, the stuff that most cars are painted with these days. It's easy to achieve a good finish, tough, and needs no further finishing (such as a clear lacquer topcoat).<br />Having said that I used cellulose paint which is what they used originally, but as I was applying new decals I used a clear acrylic topcoat too.<br />All this assumes that you have paint spraying facilities? If not then you'll have to shop around and see what you can get in spray cans.
 

Ronald1

Seaman
Joined
Jun 2, 2004
Messages
68
Re: Paint for outboard motor.

Are the original outboard colors available in rattle cans? Where can I get the decals(1955 5.5 Seahorse)?
 

petrolhead

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
614
Re: Paint for outboard motor.

I often use acetic acid to etch softer metals like aluminium, brass, copper etc..., you can buy a pack of dry crystals and just mix up whatever quantity and strength you need.<br />The problem with aluminium though is that the moment it's clean it starts to oxidise again, so an etch primer often works better. Acid etching will help whatever primer you use to get a better grip though, and it's easier than sanding, don't immerse parts in acid otherwise you may end up etching some precision machined parts that you didn't want to, like bearing seats! (How do I know that?)
 

jai070404

Seaman
Joined
Jun 15, 2004
Messages
56
Re: Paint for outboard motor.

I just know I'm letting myself in for trouble here. How did you get the entire exterior down to bare metal?
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Paint for outboard motor.

Don't bother going to bare metal if the paint on top of it is still good. Just do up the spots where it ends up bare after you prep it.<br />I've got my project 28hp down to bare aluminum, but it was a lot of work. Chemical strippers and 3M pads are what I used to do it. But that was for a complete disassemble, clean, grind, polish and paint. Which is a total waste of time if you're not completely nuts. :D
 

petrolhead

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
614
Re: Paint for outboard motor.

I mostly used a wire brush mounted on a small angle grinder to get down to bare metal, it removes all the crusty white corrosion too, but I agree with Paul, if you don't have to go down to bare metal don't do it! You will be making more work for yourself than neccessary.<br />To be honest I didn't take everything down to bare metal myself, mostly just the lower leg where all the corrosion was, and some other parts that were badly scratched or flaking.<br />If the original primer is still sound then there's little point removing it, just go straight over it with fresh primer.
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: Paint for outboard motor.

I used spray-on paint stripper when I did mine. Worked great. Available at home depot. Ate all of it right off, including decals. Zinc-chromate primer, painted it with cans and clear coated it. New decals and it Still looks great after 3 years.. Used Tempo paint..
 

pungolee

Cadet
Joined
Jul 17, 2004
Messages
12
Re: Paint for outboard motor.

I just finished a 1955 Johnson 25 electric start.Had it bead blasted(clamshell)20 bucks.Primer with self-etching(advance auto parts)tape it off and spray trim with antique white rustoleum(put this on with thin coats over a couple of hours)Let dry two days and tape off again.Sprayed SeaHorse green(yeah,that paint from the antique outboard guy in Canada,expensive,but a damn good product,dries fast,even).It pays to wear cotton gloves so your hands oil never touches the surface,from beadblasting to final coat.Then I applied the decals from American Outboard(again,50 dollars,but where else you gonna get this kind of quality?)The thing looks great!I mean OEM showroom great,done in the backyard,I'm not a pro.I didn't blast the motor,just cleaned with laquer thinner and 3m scotchbright cloths.Came out very nice.Finished by painting the prop with the remaining Rustoleum.
 

pungolee

Cadet
Joined
Jul 17, 2004
Messages
12
Re: Paint for outboard motor.

I just finished a 1955 Johnson 25 electric start.Had it bead blasted(clamshell)20 bucks.Primer with self-etching(advance auto parts)tape it off and spray trim with antique white rustoleum(put this on with thin coats over a couple of hours)Let dry two days and tape off again.Sprayed SeaHorse green(yeah,that paint from the antique outboard guy in Canada,expensive,but a damn good product,dries fast,even).It pays to wear cotton gloves so your hands oil never touches the surface,from beadblasting to final coat.Then I applied the decals from American Outboard(again,50 dollars,but where else you gonna get this kind of quality?)The thing looks great!I mean OEM showroom great,done in the backyard,I'm not a pro.I didn't blast the motor,just cleaned with laquer thinner and 3m scotchbright cloths.Came out very nice.Finished by painting the prop with the remaining Rustoleum.
 
Top