painting stripe

Bayou Dave

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
1,780
I have read a lot of threads about painting with rustoleum, interlux, etc. All I want to do is paint the red stripe along the top of the hull. It is 15" wide at the bow and 9" along the sides and stern. I want it the same color it is now. The dreaded red color! I am undecided about just using rustoleum rattle cans or getting a quart of rustoleum enamel and using the hardener and the Preval from Lowes. Would I need to prime it since it will be the same color or just sand it and wipe it with acetone?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Last edited:

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
Sand and Wipe with acetone. Do you have a compressor? If so, then I'd use a gun and the paint and hardener. Much better than the rattle can stuff!!!;) I'd use a touch up gun for a small job like this. It's got a 1.0 mm tip and will really lay down a really nice spray pattern just like a Rattle can. This is a good one...http://www.tcpglobal.com/TCP-G5800_2.html?gclid=CMG1t4Sx28YCFQ4paQodejIDew#.VaVmlvlVhBc

Yes I second the HVLP spray gun as well. I did my outboard with such a touch up gun. The only difference was my gun came in a set from Devibiss and had other Devilbiss guns and tips included. However, a 1.0mm tip for that effort is perfect. I also suggest a nice 400 grit sanding and Acetone wipe down and you're ready to paint... Do use a catalyst hardener as well. It is well worth it... :thumb:
 

Bayou Dave

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
1,780
Yes I second the HVLP spray gun as well. I did my outboard with such a touch up gun. The only difference was my gun came in a set from Devibiss and had other Devilbiss guns and tips included. However, a 1.0mm tip for that effort is perfect. I also suggest a nice 400 grit sanding and Acetone wipe down and you're ready to paint... Do use a catalyst hardener as well. It is well worth it... :thumb:

thanks WOG and GM

This is the gun I have, but the tip is 1.8mm. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Siphon-Feed-Spray-Gun-H4930SSG/203496910

This is the paint I am thinking about. http://www.lowes.com/pd_558163-90-7765502___?productId=50114176&pl=1&Ntt=rustoleum+regal+red

And the hardener. http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-...709&sr=8-1&keywords=rustoleum+enamel+hardener

How many coats should I apply? Should I put any clear coat after the paint dries or leave it alone?
Dave
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
thanks WOG and GM

This is the gun I have, but the tip is 1.8mm. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Siphon-Feed-Spray-Gun-H4930SSG/203496910

This is the paint I am thinking about. http://www.lowes.com/pd_558163-90-7765502___?productId=50114176&pl=1&Ntt=rustoleum+regal+red

And the hardener. http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-...709&sr=8-1&keywords=rustoleum+enamel+hardener

How many coats should I apply? Should I put any clear coat after the paint dries or leave it alone?
Dave

Okay, a few things I see. I read the paint instructions and it does talk about rust inhibiting and such, but the actual paint says "Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Interior Gloss". However the instructions talk about weather and such. A little confusing there. Just make certain it is for exterior finishes. The spray gun you selected can work, but it is a really large opening tip for finish type paint. Not saying it can't be used, but it is made for thicker primers and such normally. If you haven't already bought it, I'd go for the 1.0mm tip HVLP gravity feed gun myself. The syphon feed takes a little more air and sprays a lot less paint for the same amount of air pressure. If you already purchased it, use it... You'll just have to work around the larger opening. As for the number of coats. Again you'll have to figure that out yourself as you apply the coats. DON'T try to cover everything perfectly with one coat or you will have runs and other problems. A few light coats is always the better method when painting. I can take a lot of coats to cover over huge differences in undercoat colors. But you stated that your trying to paint over the basically same color so that should help out a lot. Just go slow and easy with the spraying. And read the recoat times before spraying additional coats... And if you like a really shiny finish, you can use clear coats (with hardener) for final coats. But again that is up to you. I actually did use clear coats on my OB engine and trailer if you care to look at them. Just click on the links below and look... I think you will do fine and it will look great. You will learn so much and be proud of your accomplishments... :thumb:
 

Bayou Dave

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
1,780
WOG .... Would the 4 oz can of hardener you suggested be enough? With the hardener how long before recoats? The canisiter will hold a full quart.

GM.... The specs of the paint say interior/exterior. I should be ok with that paint. I already have the spray gun so I will try to adjust it to the finest spray I can. I will put a few coats on and see how it looks. Think one quart of paint will be enough?
 

Bayou Dave

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
1,780
Just thought of 2 more questions. Wet or dry sand with 400 grit? Is there anything I should do between coats?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
That paint is just fine. a 1.8 mm tip is kinda big for shooting color coats but if you open the fan wide open and back off to about 18" you can prolly make it work. 1 quart will be PLENTY. If the temps are in the 80's an 90's I'd thin @ about 20 - 25% using a 60-40 mix of Mineral Spirits an Acetone. That will give the paint more time to flow out an avoid Orange peel. The Mix ratio I always use is Two Cups of Paint (1/2 quart) 1/2 cup of Thinner and 1 tablespoon of Hardener. With a 1.8mm tip I'd prolly start with 1/4 cup of thinner and adjust from there.
 
Last edited:

Bayou Dave

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
1,780
That paint is just fine. a 1.8 mm tip is kinda big for shooting color coats but if you open the fan wide open and back off to about 18" you can prolly make it work. 1 quart will be PLENTY. If the temps are in the 80's an 90's I'd thin @ about 20 - 25% using a 60-40 mix of Mineral Spirits an Acetone. That will give the paint more time to flow out an avoid Orange peel. The Mix ratio I always use is Two Cups of Paint (1/2 quart) 1/2 cup of Thinner and 1 tablespoon of Hardener. With a 1.8mm tip I'd prolly start with 1/4 cup of thinner and adjust from there.

I just read the can label online and see that the dry time is 2 hours and recoat time is about 24 hours. Can I leave the canister with the paint, thinner and hardener in it for 24 hours or will it harden on me overnight? Temps around here are high 80's to mid 90's and lows in the mid 70's. Also should I sand with 400 dry or wet?
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
I just read the can label online and see that the dry time is 2 hours and recoat time is about 24 hours. Can I leave the canister with the paint, thinner and hardener in it for 24 hours or will it harden on me overnight? Temps around here are high 80's to mid 90's and lows in the mid 70's. Also should I sand with 400 dry or wet?

NO don't let the paint in the gun for 24 hours or you will have a plugged gun to clean, and it will be a bear to do that as well. When I was referring to recoat time, I was merely asking about applying the light coats one after another. Not necessarily applying additional coats. In other words, you spray the initial light coat, you wait for a few minutes and spray again, and you continue doing that until you have the item covered properly...without runs. That is the recoat time I was referring too. No don't sand between those recoat efforts. There really shouldn't be any sanding while painting. Also, practice on some paper or poster board to get the spray gun adjusted properly. Adjust your compressor to around 40 psi for starters. If you apply too high air pressure, especially with certain type spray guns, you can blow the canisters out. So start around 40 psi and see how the fan works out. If you need more pressure, do so in five pound increments. Also adjust the fan to allow you to cover without so much overspray. You will get the hang of it really quick. I even install a pressure regulator AND a moisture trap right at the gun so the air is clean and water free while spraying. I also drain the compressor right before starting so the water build up in it is drained out. I'm sure your gun specifies what pressure to use. Usually around 40psi at the gun will yield the proper tip pressure to spray properly. You shouldn't have any problems with the temps or the humidity... One last thing. After you are finished spraying and know you are not going to spray anymore, clean the entire gun at that time while the paint is still wet. It is always a great idea to get into that habit... Your spray gun will last a lifetime if you do that and work properly as well for the next usage.

I am use to using PPG automotive type paints and their instructions explain recoat times, thinning amounts per temp and humidity, tape off time, sanding times and even clear coat times. So using that type paint makes it really easy to follow their directions. And they even tell you how much paint to hardener to use. So I am use to that type setup. As a matter of fact, this morning I did sand a ton of items sitting around waiting for the right time for me to paint that I had previously primed. And this morning was that time. So I mixed up the PPG Shopline paint and thinner and painted all those items. The dry time for this paint was about ten minutes. So I was able to apply about three nice coats of paint. In the next few days, I will apply the graphics and then clear coat finishes.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
If you add the hardener your recoat time is 4 hours!!! It greatly enhances the gloss and the cure time of the paint. You MUST read the instructions on the hardener!!! The paint that has Hardener mixed in it CAN NOT BE USED after 8 hours soooo DO NOT mix more than you can apply in 8 hours!!! That's why I suggested mixing only 2 cups at a time!!! You don't want to waste it. Also you MUST let the Paint COOK once the hardener is mixed in. Put in the hardener, stir well, let it cook for 10 mins, stir again, cook for 10 mins, stir again, cook for 10 mins. then pour thru a filter into your gun and shoot till the gun is empty. Shoot Acetone thru the gun for 30 secs. and leave some in the gun. Mix up some more paint as before and then repeat the process.

Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!
eek.gif
 
Last edited:

Bayou Dave

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
1,780
GM and WOG..... thanks for all the info. I feel that you guys have covered all the bases. Next step is to get the supplies and hope for a day that is only in the mid 80's versus the 98 it is today. lol
 

Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Harbor freight has a great spray gun $15 at that price its throw away, i use them for gel coating to be honest there frankly amazing for what they do. Just amke sure you have the proper connection's for the hose they have the right one's there for another 5 but hey everyone has there little secret's.
20 fl. oz. HVLP Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun


image_21036.jpg
 
Last edited:

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
This type of gravity fed gun will probably be your best bet. I would choose this over that husky any day. You just have to make sure you strain it good..if a chunk gets trapped in the needle you can have a little pee stream come out. Not so bad doing sides..but when your painting over a surface it can drip.

Oh..and another thing..dont use air when cleaning this gun. Just fill-r-up with acetone and pull the trigger.

Im sure you will do just fine spraying. Its kinda like having an unlimited supply of rattle cans with better fans :) The only thing Im not sure of is if you can sand and buff this paint...But Woody would have an answer ( If you were to ask after you painted ).

Good luck.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
If you use the HF gun make sure and disassemble it and clean it well before using it. It's full of Gunk from the factory and can spoil your paint job from the git go. Also it has a 1.4mm tip so it's a bit coarser of a fan than the finish gun but it will do a good job on color coats if you practice a bit. I've use this gun a lot and have had good results with it. I just like using the smaller touch up gun when doing stripes and small jobs due to the fine spray and it tends not to bleed thru the tape as much.

Just in case you're wondering, after the paint has cured for a week you can wet sand and buff and polish to your hearts content!!!! You'll have GREAT results. But I seriously doubt you'll need to. This stuff really cures to a very high gloss and if you use the touch up gun you'll have almost NO Orange Peel. Even the HF gun if set up correctly and the mix is correct will yield a very smooth finish. She'll be smooth as a Baby's Bottom!!!!;):D
 
Last edited:

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
WOG: She'll be smooth as a Baby's Bottom!!!!;):D Have you ever seen a baby's bottom with diaper rash :facepalm: :pound:
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Yep, but...That's because they didn't use the right stuff!!! Just like Painting!!! If you don't setup the gun right and mix the paint right, the boat will look like it has Diaper Rash TOO!!!!:D:eek::faint2:
 
Top