Plastic Drain Plug Replacement?

[John_S]

Drained the water from my merc yesterday. All plugs came out easily. When I put the plugs back in, before adding antifreeze, I snaped two of the five off. They seem brittle from age and took very little pressure to break off. Luckly, both were easy to remove. <br /><br />Is there a stainless steel or other replacement for these, or does that cause removal problems? or is it just recommended to replace all of the plastic drains, every couple of years?

 

[tommays]

Re: Plastic Drain Plug Replacement?

you could use brass,stainless or even plastic plugs sold at a hardware store <br /><br />but most of them will not be as easy to take in and out as the orginal and some may require thread sealent not to leak i would stick with the orginal<br /><br />tommays

 

[Don S]

Re: Plastic Drain Plug Replacement?

Those fancy plastic drain plugs are installed into regular NPT (Pipe Threaded) holes.<br />Just replace them with brass pipe plugs.<br />And just out of curiosity, why do you drain your system and then put in antifreeze, if it's drained, air won't freeze and crack a block or manifolds. And if all you want is corrosion protection, just run your engine using Salt Away then drain it.

 

[John_S]

Re: Plastic Drain Plug Replacement?

Thanks, for the info on the plugs. I will also talk with my merc dealer. I imagine they were the original plugs ('97), I was just surprised how little finger torque it took to snap. Will have to decide between replacing plastic every year or going to brass. <br /><br />DonS,<br />Should a thread sealer be used with brass? ie teflon tape or paste? Looks like none is used on plastic, and seals with an o-ring, vs threads.<br /><br />I assumed "Salt Away" was primarily for ocean/bay going boats. Didn't know it had any corrosion protection, that would stay adhered to the metal surfaces. I will have to take a better look at that, even though the boat only sees clear, fresh water.<br /><br />For this winter anyway, I am using straight Ban Frost 2000, which is for winterizing I/Os and has corrosion inhibitors. It is already purchased, and some is already residing in the block. If I didn't break thr 2nd plug, would have been able to finish.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Plastic Drain Plug Replacement?

You could leave it dry but then the cast iron dries out and begins to scale.using reg. A/F or non-tox your keeping the cast iron wet and keeping the scale problem under control

 

[Bondo]

Re: Plastic Drain Plug Replacement?

Should a thread sealer be used with brass? ie teflon tape or paste? Looks like none is used on plastic, and seals with an o-ring, vs threads.

You'll need to get Brass Petcocks, in 1/4" pipe thread....... <br />And, Yes use pipe dope.....<br /><br />You'll need to remove the rest of the Plastic Fitting, Before you try to install the Brass replacements.......<br /><br />The Original plastic,+ the brass replacements will/are of a 2 piece design.......<br /><br />Use pipe dope between the engine block,+ the fitting.....<br />Not between the plug,+ reciever fitting....... <br /><br />Make sure you get brass replacements that will allow you to push a nail, or screw through it to dislodge any rust or sediment that sometimes blocks proper drainage.........<br /><br />You Should be able to find what you need at about Any Auto Parts store, Hardware store, or Marine store........ Maybe a Plumbing Shop....<br /><br />On Winterizing, I'm with Don.........<br />An Empty Block Can't Freeze................ <br /><br />I've added a couple of extra drains.....<br />1 for the waterpump,+ 1 for the P/S cooler.......<br /><br />Never Ever had a Rust Issue..........<br />Silt,+ Sand....... But Never Rust........

 

[John_S]

Re: Plastic Drain Plug Replacement?

Bondo,<br /><br />I understand what you are talking about. I am not sure I want to go to the smaller draincocks. I did like the flow rate from the block with the whole plug removed. The water that drained into the bilge showed no sign of sand or scale. Even though I had a wire and poked it up the holes, no blockages were found. I did remove the two broken plastic drain plugs. <br /><br />Why the antifreeze? Just for the rust protection. The way I look at it, as long as I've drained the water correctly, I couldn't hurt things by using the Ban Frost 2000, and it might even help if I didn't completly drain. While the boat will be in a shed, it will still be subject to temp fluctuations and outside humidity and condensation. The Merc SM also recommends this for extended storage. May '05 seems like too far away, right now! Still hard to believe the season is over, for that boat anyway. Still have 3+ months of river fishing w/outboard. <br /><br />I didn't get a chance to stop at the dealer today. If the plastic plugs are cheap, might just get them, and have plenty of spares, for the next one I crack. <br /><br />BTW, I am not taking it lightly, when two marine experts recommend a drained block. That seems to be knawing at me, in the back of my head. It will be two weeks before heading back, to finish the winterization. Maybe I'll be convinced by that thought, by then.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Plastic Drain Plug Replacement?

John,<br />Even the Big Plastic plugs Flow through the Same 1/4" Pipe Hole..........<br />There are Several Different Styles of Brass Drain Plugs....... That's Why I reccommend the 1s that allow Full Flow,+ You Can jam a nail or something Through it........<br /><br />If they were Giving Away the Plastic Plugs........ I'd Still Pay for Brass Plugs......<br /><br />I don't know Where in NY you're at, <br />But up here, - 40* Below 0, is Not unheard of....<br />We see - 30* every year...<br />In Sweetwater, Rust is Never a Problem......<br />And,<br />A Dry Block Can't freeze............

 

[John_S]

Re: Plastic Drain Plug Replacement?

-40, probably why there is such a population drop in the winter at Alex Bay! ;-)<br /><br />Where the boat is stored (Utica), it may see -20. -30 would be an exceptionally cold night!