GOOD NEWS. . . . The PICTURE UPLOAD FUNCTION IS WORKING !!! The tech folks at the parent company have been able to remedy the issue. You can upload pictures once again. Thank you for your patience.
Any one have any opinions? Was driving yesterday and all of a sudden the engine shut down and was not able to start up again. Got it started when I got home but is all the popping normal? https://youtu.be/zyILtfiZy3c
Get a big plastic trash can and slip it under the l.u. Fill with water about half way up the shaft. Fire the engine up at low idle and let it warm up -- see if you can better identify the miss (may disappear with back pressure). Use an open air adjustable spark tester and measure spark on each lead, both plugs removed. (Post results.)
agree with flyingscott, messed with my sync-n-link the other day, got one carb a little open at idle, sounded just like that. and sounds like a little lean sneeze too. strange to go out of adjustment while running, remove rod between carbs, should still run, any change?
We want to see spark jump a gap of 7/16" or more in open air.-------That is the real test.----A device to do that can be made with 2 wires spaced at 7/16" , glued or stapled to carboard or plywood.---Compression is a bit low, but most folks will argue on that point.----Might just be your gauge too.----Put a few drops of oil on the starter bearings too.
Add as much water as you can to the barrel (or raise the bow to sink the motor a little lower.) Grab a pair of work gloves, and pull off the plug boots one at a time. If no change noticed, that plug is probably not firing -- can run remarkably smooth on one cylinder, so hard to tell without testing.
The point of the open air tester and the wide gap is to test magneto output.
The idle sounds a bit high to me in the barrel test. I'm not hearing any misfire or lean sneeze, but maybe the idle speed is disguising that. Try to idle it at low as it will go (At low idle should be no lean sneezing and should go into gear without stalling).
The idle sounds a lot louder in the video than in person. But I will try the barrel test again tomorrow as recommended and pulling the boots off one by one
If it keeps running when you remove the top plug wire , than as suspected your motor is running on one cylinder only.----Read post #10 and report what you see when doing a real ignition output test !!-----
The battery is not used to run the " spark making system "-----In fact that motor can be started with a rope on the flywheel and a completely dead battery.
It is not firing properly on the top cylinder. Only running properly on the bottom one
Swap the plugs over and repeat the test
If it is still the same suspect a problem with the ignition on the top cylinder. See the CDI trouble shooting guide to check out the ignition system
On the other hand if it cuts out when you pull the lead off the top plug but keeps running when you pull the lead off the bottom one i.e. fault has moved with the plug, suspect the plug which is now in the bottom cylinder. Replace that one or better replace both.
The sparks you get in your later tests look about the same so Id suspect the plug, but it's difficult to tell in a video. You are the one best placed to judge.
