porpoising/cavitation?

gleavens

Seaman
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Sep 17, 2008
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I have a 1996 Pro Line 190 C/C that rides bow high and bounces, as it bounces the prop is getting into the washout and cavitating ( I presume) or changing in rpm/tone. Possible causes I see are trim too far out or hull damage ( rocker) . Would moving the pin in the transom bracket down one spot make that much difference? How would a hull suffer rocker damage and how would it be corrected? Thanks
 

ziggy

Admiral
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Jun 30, 2004
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Would moving the pin in the transom bracket down one spot make that much difference?
it will make a difference. sounds like ya don't have power trim so your going to have to find the best sweet spot for the pin. trimming in/down will bring the bow down. hopefully to a point where it won't porpoise (bounce). i've got power trim. if i trim out/up, i can get to a point where i bounce/porpoise too. the bow is too high, trimming in/down is the answer.
this would be the first thing to do imho before thinking that ya got a hook/rocker damage to the boat. if trimming down don't work, my next best guess for something to do would be to put trim tabs on it. or even a whale tail (i can't believe i just said that). either of these will also bring the bow down.
as for the cavitation. i'd think it's more likey ventilation. where the prop sucks air and allows the prop to loose traction and the engine over revs. cavitation is where the prop cutting though the water actually heats up the water so much it turns to steam. as the steam travels to the back of the prop it turns back into water with explosive force that eats up the metal on your prop. you'll see little pock marks on the prop that look like sandpaper, but it's divits, or small pieces of alum. that have been blown away from the prop when the steem turns back into water.
this is what cavitation burn looks like on a prop.




copy those pics to paint and blow them up and ya can real easy see the pitting of cavitation burn.
 

gleavens

Seaman
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Sep 17, 2008
Messages
63
I actually do have power trim /tilt, but there is a pin in the transom bracket, it is trimmed all the way in against the pin, however there is one location lower on the bracket to locate the pin, or remove the pin altogether?
 

Watermann

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That pin is called a thrust bar and it needs to be there, since you have power TnT then it should be in the furthest back hole to allow the motor to tuck in all the way.

Although it sounds like your boat is stern heavy and you may have to add some lift by way of trim tabs, I like the Nauticus smart tabs for that very reason since my boat is stern heavy too. In the mean time you can try moving anything you can from the stern up towards the bow to redistribute some weight.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2005
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Porpoising is speed and trim angle related. If you are porpoising at any given speed you have 2 choices: Either speed up or tuck it in till it quits. If you are tucked all the way in or going as fast as you can/desire, then as the other guys said, time to add some stern lifting; a non-raked prop can help with that if you are running a raked prop. (If you are unfamiliar with the term "rake", look in the prop sales section herein for a definition.)

On your prop cavitation, is it cavitation burn as ziggy indicated in his pics, or are you talking about ventilation....picking up surface air in the propwash. If really cavitation burn, what is the condition of your prop? If rough edges or deformation of the blade, it could be due to the damage, not caused by running near the surface. I ran that way for years, on a stock rig, nothing fancy, and ran the prop so high that you could hear the engine rpms and the prop blades beating the water's surface and never had any C burn. On this problem, if ventilation, tucking in will reduce/stop that too. If you choose to run high like that then "cupping" of the trailing edge of the blades helps the prop to grab....see definitions mentioned earlier on this condition also. With your mentioning engine rpm increasing when the problem occurs, that's "ventilation".
 
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gleavens

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Sep 17, 2008
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I believe you are all correct, it's ventilation not cavitation, I will move the pin all the way down to tuck in the gearcase as far as possible , will take it out Sunday for a test, if that doesn't push the bow down will then try smart tabs, thanks
 

Texasmark

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I believe you are all correct, it's ventilation not cavitation, I will move the pin all the way down to tuck in the gearcase as far as possible , will take it out Sunday for a test, if that doesn't push the bow down will then try smart tabs, thanks

What prop are you running? How about a side and rear picture of it. Want to see the shape of the blade including the tip and the root. Will help and may save you wasting your money on TTs.
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Getting more down trim has got to help ... In my case the motor could not trim far enough down to stop the porpoising .. I did not have enough angle on the transom so I installed transom wedges ... Completely fixed the problem ...
 

Texasmark

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Getting more down trim has got to help ... In my case the motor could not trim far enough down to stop the porpoising .. I did not have enough angle on the transom so I installed transom wedges ... Completely fixed the problem ...

I had a similar problem but opposite. I wanted more up trim, ran out before I started blowing out, so I shimmed too but at the bottom of the transom bracket. Simple fix, no cost!
 

gleavens

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Sep 17, 2008
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What prop are you running? How about a side and rear picture of it. Want to see the shape of the blade including the tip and the root. Will help and may save you wasting your money on TTs.

15 x 17, unable to upload photos. One little pic exceeds the size limit of this site
 

gleavens

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What prop are you running? How about a side and rear picture of it. Want to see the shape of the blade including the tip and the root. Will help and may save you wasting your money on TTs.
 

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Watermann

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Looks like an older style prop with no cupping and a tame rake.

fetch
 

Texasmark

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Looks like an older style prop with no cupping and a tame rake.

fetch

+1 on both comments.

Mr Gleavens, you don't have cavitation problems. You just have a sorry paint job on that prop. When I got my first 125 Johnson, I was running alum props as SST (T for Teflon coated) props were not out till the next year....which I bought as soon as I found about them for a whopping $185 which was a chunk of money for a prop at the time. Just about every time I went out I'd ding the prop bad enough to have to take it to the prop shop on Monday at lunch to get it fixed; and on that engine a 2" sapling at idle could do it. They'd shoot it with rattle can white, no primer, no prep, just to make it look fixed. Take the boat to the water, goose it a couple of times to WOT, shut it down, raise it and the prop would look like yours or worse.
 

gleavens

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Sep 17, 2008
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+1 on both comments.

Mr Gleavens, you don't have cavitation problems. You just have a sorry paint job on that prop. When I got my first 125 Johnson, I was running alum props as SST (T for Teflon coated) props were not out till the next year....which I bought as soon as I found about them for a whopping $185 which was a chunk of money for a prop at the time. Just about every time I went out I'd ding the prop bad enough to have to take it to the prop shop on Monday at lunch to get it fixed; and on that engine a 2" sapling at idle could do it. They'd shoot it with rattle can white, no primer, no prep, just to make it look fixed. Take the boat to the water, goose it a couple of times to WOT, shut it down, raise it and the prop would look like yours or worse.

So what would you recommend? Should I purchase a different prop and keep this as a backup? What should this motor run for a prop? ( 130hp Johnson looper, mid 90"s vintage) boat will primarily be used in coastal waters in Cape Cod Bay and Vineyard sound, Buzzards Bay etc.
By the way, The Prop Doc. is responsible for that "reconditioned " prop!
 

Watermann

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It's always a good idea to have a spare prop, so to give an informed answer to your new prop question let us know what are the numbers for the current prop? Dia/pitch, speed at WOT and RPMs?
 

gleavens

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Sep 17, 2008
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It's always a good idea to have a spare prop, so to give an informed answer to your new prop question let us know what are the numbers for the current prop? Dia/pitch, speed at WOT and RPMs?

15 x17 , speedo and tach not currently functioning so rpm would be n/a, speed I can get from gps, when I get the # s I'll post them, thanks
 
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