Power Steering leak in odd location.

[shaw520]

There's a rubber boot at the point of the red arrow in the photo,.. I have power steering fluid leaking from this point,... I tightened the large bolt just a little (1/8 turn) but Im guessing theres a seal that needs to replaced here,... any one have experience with this ?? thank you in advance, Shaw

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... I believe ya gotta replace the complete actuator,....

Don't think "Parts" are available for it, it's called a "Non-serviceable" unit,...

 

[shaw520]

"Non-serviceable",... what language is that???,... not sure I ever learned that word.
..dang!!.. didnt want to take that unit out!..i have spares around the garage but what a pia to change out.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Its non serviceable for a few reasons

One..... because merc buys it as a whole unit and doesnt ave a parts breakdown

Two... Its an item that needs special tools to pull apart and service.

Three.... Its manufacturing method makes it nearly imposible to get apart and repair for less money than a new one.

You may be able to take it apart, find seals and get it back together.

 

[gm280]

If the leak is really serious or bothersome, then go for a repair. I mean it is already damaged, so what is there to loose? You could get it apart and see what could be replaced and fix it. Or you could damage it beyond usefulness ever again. Those are the options. JMHO

 

[JoLin]

Funny this one came along just now. I solved the same issue this week. First, that rubber boot isn't a fluid seal- it's a protective cover for the adaptor (#17) to control valve (#10) connection. The leak is probably coming from either the high pressure hose or the control valve itself. It's all packed close together back there and it's really, really hard to find the source without removing the entire assembly from the transom. Even then, it'll be tough to troubleshoot because it operates at pressures that are hard to duplicate at home.

You could try removing the unit from the transom and placing it where you can see it better, but leaving the PS pump and hoses hooked up. Fill the reservoir, run the engine and see where the fluid's escaping. That was my original plan, anyway.

After wedging my head back there and inspecting that sucker umpteen times, I concluded that it was either the valve or the high pressure hose (leaking at the fitting). The old-style valve is no longer available. I'd need to either find a way to rebuild it, or swap the entire PS assembly to the newer style. I finally saw a slight indication that it might be the high pressure hose- there was a little sludge at the base of the fitting that, IMO, wouldn't be there unless fluid was seeping from it. I took a shot and replaced the hose (not an easy task, either), and the leak stopped.

** I tried to embed a parts diagram of the PS assembly but it didn't work. Go to any parts page, plug in your transom serial number, and go to power steering components. If you don't have that serial number, you can try mine (those are zeroes in the number) - 0D692504

 

[shaw520]

No Title

JoLin, thank you for this informative response, Im aware that I will likely be changing out the entire unit, but it is fun to try and repair ! Im not sure that we're talking about the same parts that is leaking. On one schematic I saw that it was called a 'Ball Stud'

 

[JoLin]

We're talking about the same part, but 'ball stud' describes it better than I did. It allows some twisting movement. There's a grease fitting right above it (#14) to lube it, and the rubber boot just seals against dirt getting in and grease dripping out, like with any other ball joint. There's no fluid (just grease) in that part of the assembly, so you aren't leaking anything there.

I'd try tightening the high pressure hose fitting before tearing everything apart. You'll need to remove the low pressure fitting to get at it, but that has a big nut that you can hit with a regular open end wrench. I can't remember what size the flare nut is on the high pressure hose, but make sure you use a proper 'line' or 'flare' wrench to tighten it so you don't round off the corners.

You can get Section 6-A (steering systems) of the factory service manual here. Very complete.

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/servmanl/14/14a6.pdf

My .02

 

[shaw520]

No Title

Please help me understand which high pressure line I should tighten, Ive pointed the red arrow at the one I think you're talking about. Thank You

 

[JoLin]

Yes, that's it. We're talking about the high pressure line coming directly from the PS pump. The high pressure line has the small nut. The low pressure (return) line runs back to the PS cooler, and from there back to the PS pump. That one has the big nut.

Merc didn't leave enough room between the two fittings, so you need to detach the return hose (big nut) to get a flare/line wrench on the high pressure fitting. Tighten it, then put the low pressure fitting back. There isn't enough room to use a flare wrench on that one, but an open end wrench will take care of it. Just don't use Channel-Locks or vice grips on it.

My .02

 

[bman440440]

No Title

if you don't have a flare wrench then take an old box end wrench and grind an opening in it just big enough to pass the line threw it.

 

[JoLin]

bman, I have the correct sized flare wrenches to fit both hoses. There isn't enough space between the 2 hose fittings to use either one while the 2 hoses are still attached to the valve. Besides grinding an opening in a box wrench, you'd have to grind around the outside of it to make it thin enough to fit, at which point it probably wouldn't be strong enough

The low pressure hose nut can be loosened and tightened with an open end wrench as it doesn't need to be as tight as the other. You have to remove it before you can hit the high pressure hose fitting with the correct (flare) wrench.

My .02

 

[NHGuy]

OP I had that problem about ten years ago on my 1988 Alpha 1. Being the cheap SOB that I am I checked everywhere and found a rebuild kit part # by searching the drive manual and the parts archive. Found some info on how it's assembled and adjusted in the manual. The part info may have been there too.
The part number popped up as a NLA (no longer available) kit. It also rebuilds the valve assembly on some ancient Chevy trucks and supposedly Corvettes.
So If you can't get the parts any longer you may be able to get them as Chevy restorer parts.
You absolutely have to remove it from the boat so get some oil absorbent mats, it's going to drip.
I think the kit was under $20. It has the boot you pointed to, a couple of orings and seals. But it also has some instructions. Between the Mercruiser Alpha One manual and the kit, my steering repair came out fine. I can tell you I was sweating bullets disassembling it. I was really afraid I'd drop something irreplaceable.

At the end of the day the problem was the orings on the spool valve. Torn & worn.

Or to put it another way it's a Chevy spool valve setup from the 60's.

 

[shaw520]

some really good advice here,... thank you gentlemen.

 

[JoLin]

Shaw, keep us posted as you go along, okay? I lucked out for the time being, but who knows? I'll also do some looking around (google) to see if I can find the rebuild parts NHGuy mentioned. Wouldn't mind having the parts around myself. Let you know if I find anything.

Thinking that a hydraulic repair shop could probably service it, too.

My .02

(NHGuy may have hit the nail on the head. Look at pics of the PS control valve for 1963-1982 Corvettes. It looks freakin' identical to the Merc. Both the valve and rebuild kits are available)

 

[shaw520]

Yup,... yup,...will do,.. Ill be in the engine compartment very soon..

 

[NHGuy]

Now I remember what it was. there's a piece in there that might be called a shuttle. Mine was stuck or sticky.