Power valve issue maybe?

Adam_c

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Sep 16, 2018
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So I posted awhile ago thought I had fixed my stalling boat by finding plastic in my gas tank pick up tube. Removed it seemed to run better but still not 100%
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Had the boat out today was doing about 30 ish mph for about 20 mins and when throttling down boat sputters and stalls. Was doing some reading about a stuck open power valve that could be the issue.

Would that make more sense then a fuel pump or anti siphon valve?

Those are my next replace if persists ..

Picking up another Carb tomorrow will try that first.
I have 2.5l rochester 2 jet carb

Thanks!
 

Adam_c

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Sep 16, 2018
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Replaced the anti siphon valve and noticed the old one was quite a bit harder to blow through than the new one. Picked up the replacement carb but haven't put it on yet.

Should I try the boat first with the new anti siphon and see if the problem persist or also put the replacement carb on and try then both together?
 

Lou C

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Might want to try one thing at a time that way you know what affected your results.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Kenny, burred in the OP's thread is 2.5 liter, so a 120hp

never understood people spending money on a complete carb when a $30 kit is usually all that is needed.
 

Adam_c

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Sep 16, 2018
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The problem with the rebuild is I need it working by Saturday.

Changed carb not the issue ran boat from external gas tank same issue and also with a hand pump.

Disconnected riser runs great... Flapper looks fine it's a rubber one wondering if I have crud stuck at the bottom.
Does the very bottom exhaust disconnect from the outdrive/ engine somehow to clean it?
 
Last edited:

Scott Danforth

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the exhaust tube is bolted to the transom shield. you can remove your motor to remove the exhaust tube

as for a carb rebuild, its a 1-2 hour job
 

Adam_c

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Sep 16, 2018
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Scott Danforth Thanks, my issues was more ordering one on time. But none the less now I have 2 "no biggie.
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Ya moving the motor seemed like a heavy job I put a shop vac down the exhaust and ran a hose through it put it all back together ran great for about 30 mins then problem persist. Sputters and stalls I'll upload a video to YouTube so people can see. Any other idea why when warm it does this? Running out of things to change.
 

Scott Danforth

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Go back to the basics. Read the plugs, check the choke aettings
 

kenny nunez

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Put a volt meter on the + side of the coil to check that the ballast resistor circuit is not breaking down. You should see around 8 volts, run it with the volt meter on to monitor the voltage when it starts to cut off.
 
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