pvanv
Admiral
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2008
- Messages
- 6,570
I have stripped the 40-year-old , flaking bottom paint from our 28' sailboat, and will be applying Interlux 3000E and 2000E barrier coat before painting with a good ablative bottom paint. This is not a blister repair -- there aren't any blisters, and the boat lives in Lake Ontario fresh water, so I'm not expecting any future blistering. Yet, after going through the labor to strip the bottom, a barrier coat seems prudent. The stripping was done with Soy Strip, and the removal of the stripper/paint sludge combo was done with a 3600 psi pressure washer. The hull is now very clean, the boat is canvas-covered outdoors in western NY, with excellent ventilation, and the laminate should be very dry in a few months.
I have discovered thousands of spider cracks in the gelcoat. These are not point-load stress related, as they are pretty much everywhere. Of course, there are more cracks in high stress and high flex areas. Since the old-technology, hand-laid, solid glass hull is of the era when the gelcoat was way thicker than needed, it seems that this spider cracking is due to the thick gelcoat not flexing well enough. There doesn't seem to be any structural issues with the 1968 Hinterhoeller hull. Laminate moisture is nil.
While long boarding and fairing the hull, I plan to sand a the gelcoat thinner, which hopefully will reduce future spider cracking. I am wondering whether I must vee each crack open and fill with Interlux Watertite (or equivalent), or if I will get sufficient penetration and edge-bonding of the gelcoat cracks if I use Smith and Company CPES. I'd rather not strip the hull again in a couple of years because of fresh cracking, but the labor to vee each gelcoat crack might run into hundreds of hours.
Thoughts?
I have discovered thousands of spider cracks in the gelcoat. These are not point-load stress related, as they are pretty much everywhere. Of course, there are more cracks in high stress and high flex areas. Since the old-technology, hand-laid, solid glass hull is of the era when the gelcoat was way thicker than needed, it seems that this spider cracking is due to the thick gelcoat not flexing well enough. There doesn't seem to be any structural issues with the 1968 Hinterhoeller hull. Laminate moisture is nil.
While long boarding and fairing the hull, I plan to sand a the gelcoat thinner, which hopefully will reduce future spider cracking. I am wondering whether I must vee each crack open and fill with Interlux Watertite (or equivalent), or if I will get sufficient penetration and edge-bonding of the gelcoat cracks if I use Smith and Company CPES. I'd rather not strip the hull again in a couple of years because of fresh cracking, but the labor to vee each gelcoat crack might run into hundreds of hours.
Thoughts?