problem for the season mechanic

[jlcjtc]

I have a 1987 renken ski boat with a 4.3L OMC. The problem is that I have just replaced the coil because it had oil coming out of it. The guy that had it before me converted it over to electronic ignition, but I think that he jacked it up. Where does the red and black wires go fron the plate inside the distributor, also my ignition wire seems to be generating alot of heat when the key is switched on. The ignition switch checks out good with a meter. Also what kind of voltage am I suppose to be getting going into the coil from the distributor, I have got a manual order but who knows when it will be here any advice will help

 

[McKenzie]

Re: problem for the season mechanic

I can't be too sure about this because i don't know your setup, but in general, The two wires coming from the distibutor get connected the the ignition coil. The negative lead gets connected to the negative ignition coil terminal and the positive lead gets connected to the positive ignition coil terminal. Then add power to the positive ignition coil terminal (via the ignition switch) and you should be running. Since this is an OMC, you probably have a grey wire with a black stripe, the ESA. This gets connected to the negative ignition coil terminal. Since this has an electronic ignition (most likely pertronix) a diode fix must be installed in-line with the grey/black wire. (goto pertronix's website if you need info on that) Since this boat originally had points, the supply to the coil is probably purple with a red stripe, a resistance wire that drops the voltage down for the points. The output should be 8v-9v, but if its higher, it won't matter much with an electronic ignition. Resistance wires can get a little warm, but if its hot, replace it.

 

[jlcjtc]

Re: problem for the season mechanic

OK I have not even 1 volt going to the ignition coil. The ignition switch wire is purple, but there is a red wire also attached with it. The purple wire coming off the starter appears to have brpken at one time. The guy that had it just spliced a piece of white wire to make it long enough to go to the starter. All the voltage at the ignition switch is good in all postions. Is the purple wire at the starter the same ignition wire that runs to the switch, I notice that the fuse on the hot lead to the ignition switch is also getting very hot. Could this jack leg slice job be causing my issues?

 

[rogerwa]

Re: problem for the season mechanic

If this is a Pertronix Ignitor I ignition module, leaving the key in the run position without the engine running can result in a burned out module within a very short period of time (~2-5Mins). This may be the source of the heat. The Ignitor II fixed this problem..

 

[pconsolini]

Re: problem for the season mechanic

Just to add my two cents. I had noticed a bit of oil at the bottom of the coil HV well when I did a tuneup. Sent a message to Standard Motor Products (maker of the coil on my 88 3L OMC) for the coil resistances and mentioned the oil too. They sent the specs back and said it was normal to have a little oil in the well during hot weather and suggested tightening down the phillips head screw at the bottom of the well.