Re: Problem with fuel gauge
Thanks. I have checked all connections. I will perform test as Bob suggests. I am a little confused about it though. Do I have to remove the float\sender from the tank to perform test? When I checked the wiring at the float\sender, there were 2 wires. A black wire (ground?) and a red wire...I guess it could be pink (sender wire?) These leads were "permanantly" crimped to the wires that lead to the gauge. Should I cut the wires and remove the permanant crimps and replace them with connectors that can be detached when necessary?
I will try and upload some pics later today.
You don't have to remove the sender or the wires there (black and pink). Simply attach a length of wire to a ground (either the batt or a ground bus bar), and touch it to the pink. If the sender is good, the gauge will peg to full. A sender works on resistance, not voltage (although the gauge needs voltage as it is an electrical gauge). Almost all senders are 33-240 ohms, with 33 being full, 240 empty.
I would also make sure the terminals on the gauge are good and snug. Most gauges have threaded posts so put a wrench on the nuts. Some gauges use quick-disconnect (spade) terminals. It helps to pull the leads off and squeeze down a little on the "ears" of the quick-disconnects...
Beefer, thanks for the compliment. I'd rather write a book on Proline, Stamas, Wellcraft, etc., now THOSE might be a fun read!
